HM2017 Build

[Jeff K]

It'll take awhile for my friend to get his cobra running again.  He's tackling several other upgrades while he has it apart.

I wasn't thrilled with the fit of the license plate holder supplied with the kit so I decided to try something different.  I installed threaded inserts into the trunk lid so I can attach the license plate directly to the lid.  I'll use some spacers behind the plate.

[Bob Worley]

I wasn't thrilled with the fit of the license plate holder supplied with the kit so I decided to try something different.  I installed threaded inserts into the trunk lid so I can attach the license plate directly to the lid.  I'll use some spacers behind the plate.

Ooooh, I like that idea!   I may do that since I'm still in gelcoat  

I actually lost my license plate because I trimmed my first license plate bracket, and it weaked it and gave it a start to crack and break off. I had to go back down the highway and find it.

[Jeff K]

25 months after I first ordered an engine, I received my engine today.  It's a 408 ci small block from BluePrint Engines.  Now I can switch from body work to engine installation.  The first engine builder I ordered from, Craft Performance, is going through bankruptcy court right now.  I'm curious to see if I ever get any of my deposit back from them.  I should be able to make some good progress now.

[Kamal]

Congrats!  So exciting.   Let me know if you need help.  In case you don't, I have an engine hoist. 

[Jeff K]

I got the engine installed last weekend.  Had to modify the motor mounts some to get it to drop in.  I determined I'm going to need to fabricate a spacer for under the transmission mount to get the engine/transmission to an acceptable angle relative to the IRS differential.  With a 1.5" spacer I'll have a 3.4 degree operating angle for the engine/transmission, and a 3.5 degree operating angle for differential.  That angle's a little larger than recommended but if I raised the engine/transmission at the motor mounts and transmission mount a 1/4", the angle would drop to less than 2.5 degrees.  I might do that.

[Jeff K]

The first modification I made after installing the engine was to widen the foot box.  Others on the forum have made the same modification.  I definitely needed more room for my feet.  With the small block, there's plenty of room for widening.  With this modification I was able to offset the gas pedal 2" and now I'll be able to shift the clutch and brake pedals an inch to the right also.  I've driven a couple of cobras before and had to take my shoes off for my feet to fit the pedals.  This will be a huge improvement.

[Jeff K]

Once I moved the gas pedal to the right, that allowed me to opportunity to shift the clutch and brake pedals to the right also.  I ended up moving them 1".  This provided the best spacing for my feet.

[Jeff K]

Finished enlarging of the foot box and moving the pedals to the right.  A lot of work but very happy with the way it turned out.  Should really help my feet.

I mocked up the throttle linkage next.  Needed to mount the linkage on the firewall to clear the fuel injection fuel rail.  Pretty straightforward.

Tried to install the steering shafts but the lower shaft contacts the header and wouldn't allow it to rotate.  I ordered a longer mid-shaft which will move the universal joint towards the front of the car which will provide more clearance. 

[Redstang69]

Jeff, in case you didn't read my thread, make sure you mock the shafts up with everything installed, including the VW turn signal switch if you're using it. I didn't have the switch on the first time and I didn't realize it would effect the layout of it all.
Looks like you've got your collapsible shaft pulled out pretty far putting your u-joint close to the bearing carrier. My u-joint ended up much further forward thus causing the set screws to hit the header pipe.
Looks like you're moving right along. Things really start going fast once the engine and trans are in.

[Jeff K]

Ben, thanks for the reminder.  I bought a longer middle steering shaft and got it measured and installed.  It's about 4" longer than first one.  Lots of room now for the header.

[Redstang69]

Glad you got it to work out. Looks very similar to how mine ended up.

[Kamal]

Jet,

Looks great. I envy your fiberglass working skills, and will be picking your brain soon on some work I need to do on my car.

[Jeff K]

Been making a little progress lately.  Fiddled with the throttle linkage some to get the 2"-2.5" throttle pedal travel I was looking for.  I had overlooked that earlier and had way too much throttle pedal travel.  Had to add another hole in the throttle body bracket and added an extension to the bracket that bolts to the throttle pedal shaft.  Happy with it now.

Finished running the hydraulic clutch line, tightened all the clutch and brake line fittings, added brake fluid and bled the systems.  Had a few leaks, but tightening the fittings fixed most of them.  I did have to buy new crush washers for the banjo fittings/bolts at the front calipers to stop those leaks.  Still fighting one very small leak.  I'm running Dot 3 brake fluid in the clutch since the hydraulic throw out bearing manufacturer required it.  I'm running Dot 5 fluid in the brakes.

Installed all the bolts for the headers.  Had to grind down the heads of some of the bolts for clearance.  I need to verify I can still remove the headers after the cockpit tub is installed.  I drilled out the header/side pipe bolt holes and installed 5/16" bolts.  It seemed like the ¼" bolts were undersized.

[Greg K]

Curious why you chose DOT 5 silicone based brake fluid when Wilwood does not recommend for racing and performance driving.

[Jeff K]

Greg, I read the same advice from Wilwood but I like Dot 5 fluid for the obvious reason that it doesn't dissolve paint plus I've used it in my other project cars and never had any braking problems during spirited driving.