News:

Welcome to the NEW Hurricane Motorsports discussion group.
Take time to browse around and get familiar.
Very similar to the previous forum but
there are some subtle differences

Main Menu

HM2017 Build

Started by Jeff K, February 04, 2022, 01:26:12 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

Jeff K

Today I installed heat barrier and the aluminum on the firewall.  That took some work.  The heat barrier is adhesive backed Thermo-Tec brand I bought on Amazon.  For the aluminum, I sanded it to remove scratches and sprayed it with Sharkhide metal protectant.  Hopefully the finish holds up.

A couple of the bolts for the throttle pedal corner bracket interfere with each other and one interferes with the throttle pedal.  To get around this, I countersunk the front holes and installed flat head bolts from the inside.  That should fix the interference.

I was hoping to permanently install the cockpit tub this weekend but I discovered a small brake fluid leak towards the rear and it will be easier to troubleshoot from above than from below.  Getting close though.

Redstang69

Nice idea on the flat head bolts to address that issue. The aluminum looks nice. I've used the shark Hyde on all my aluminum and really like it. So easy to apply, dries really fast and gives a nice even shine.
I did drip some gas on a piece and if you look in the light the right way you can see where it lifted the finish, but it's tough to tell.
If you're going to hear shield the inside of your footbox you might want to do that while it's off too. Also, check your throttle pedal in the bracket. Some of us have had to radius the top of the flat bar because it rubs on the footbox. Great progress.

Jeff K

Thanks.  I've already radiused the throttle pedal.  I was planning on installing Kilmat sound deadening mat inside the cockpit tub.  You're right, I should install it when the tub is easily accessible.

Jeff K

I mentioned before that I was having brake fluid leaks at the front caliper hose fittings.  It turns out that my calipers should have had 1/8" NPT threads instead of the 3/8-24 threads it had according to the spec sheet.  I talked with Wilwood tech support and they said the caliper never came with a thread for a banjo bolt which makes sense but doesn't explain why mine did.  I wasn't able to get the banjo bolt to stop leaking so I retapped the hole for 1/8" NPT.  That solved the leaking problem.

I decided to go with an Optima battery.  I installed it using some brackets I bought from optimatrays.com.

Also got the fuel tank vent installed.

Getting close to permanently installing the cockpit tub.

Jeff K

I finally installed the trunk liner and cockpit tub for the last time.  I used 10-32 screws to secure them to the frame.  I figured with screws I could remove the pieces if I ever needed to plus I liked that I could control the clamping force with the screws.  The front horizontal panel of the trunk liner also got screwed to the cockpit tub which created a strong shelf for the battery.

I installed Kilmat sound deadener to the firewall area of the cockpit tub before installing the upper frame.  This stuff should cut down a little on the sound and heat getting into the cockpit.  It takes some effort to press the Kilmat onto the surface so I'll do more later when I have the energy.

Redstang69

Things will start moving pretty quickly now.
Could you post some measurements of where you put the holes for the dash support tubes?

Jeff K

Ben, I'll take some measurements and pictures tomorrow.

Jeff K

Here's the dimensions for the holes in the tunnel for the support tubes.  Hopefully you can make sense of them.  I tried to make the support tubes mimic the originals the best I could.

Jeff K

Let me try that again.

Paul Proefrock

Word to the wise, make the crossbar two pieces with a nut welded onto one of them, putting the bolt up thru the flat bar that forms the cowl support so you can put the bolt in from the bottom, capture one of the tube bars then into the bar with the nut welded on the upper edge. (Clear as mud?)

There are times you need to remove the crosstubes and with them bolted in as a whole piece, you can't get them out.

Please don't ask how I know this

I ran some wiring thru one of the tubes and put the speedometer cable thru the other. Depending on the size of the tubing you used, you may have to separate the head of the speedo cable to get it thru the tube.

Paul
https://65shlb.com   Documentation of a period correct build
https://prdcrrct.com  Affordable period correct components

Redstang69

Thanks for measurements Jeff, I should be able to work with it. Could you add how far apart the tubes are at the top where they bolt to the dash?
Paul, good advice, I remember reading about this in another place. I thought of running some things down through the tubes but like you said you have to take the speedo cable apart or use a big tube and it didn't really gain me anything for the neutral safety so I just took it out the firewall. It was difficult to drill with the engine and trans in and upper frame in.

Jeff K

Ben, the center to center distance of the tubes at the top is 5".

Jeff K

It has been quiet on the forum lately.  I've been installing the wiring harness in my car for the last week.  There's a lot of wires for a simple car.  The EFI adds another harness and another layer of complexity.  I was able to route all the wires and harnesses through one hole in the transmission tunnel at the back of the engine.  I spent some time trying to hide the EFI wires on the engine.  I don't think it'll look too cluttered when I get done.  Slowly making progress.

Redstang69

Looking nice Jeff. Very clean job. If you have questions on the wiring let me know.

Jeff K

I'm finally done with the initial wiring less a couple items.  I'm pretty confident I got it right but I haven't hooked up the battery yet.  I'll save that for later.  When I started the wiring I envisioned the wires being neat and tidy behind the dash.  Far from it.  There's a lot of wire back there.  I'm glad I made the dash removable because trying to do any troubleshooting later from under the dash would be impossible.  I followed the example of some others and put a couple small welds between the upper frame and frame.  This will ensure good grounding between the two.  I got the spark plug wires fabricated and installed.  The EFI needs an O2 sensor so I got that installed also.  I also added a USB port under the dash.  Might need that someday.  After I get back from vacation I can move on to the radiator and the remaining items required to get it running.  Getting closer.