HM-2040 Build

[Kamal]

FYI I made a high res color scan of the build manual in case anyone wants a copy. 

[Redstang69]

I should've also mentioned, drop your trunk tub on and make sure the top of your tank doesn't hit your tub. You'll probably have to open up the filter neck opening.

[Redstang69]

Hate to keep beating this fuel tank thing to death, but I went to wrap mine up today and remembered Paul cautioned me on the sending unit gasket
"Also be aware, the cork seal they supply is a known leak point. There's just enough pressure from the fuel head when you fill up that it leaks around the gasket. Found that MotoSeal is the only sealant that will not breakdown with exposure to gasoline. FYI"
Looks like MotoSeal 29132. I'm going to grab some tomorrow and put on mine before install.

[Kamal]

Looks like we now have a friendly build competition - California vs Texas.  Turns out Jeff K is in my local area.  Who will finish first, and which state will prevail? In terms of politics, we lost a long time ago 🤣

[Kamal]

Just a quick update.  Things moving slowly for a change.  The whole bell housing debacle got to be unmanageable after I was unable to install my starter into it.  So, I bit the bullet and just purchased the Quick Time bell housing, and was able to get Summit to refund me the money on their faulty safety bell housing.

In the end, the Summit bell housing was 1/2" shorter than the Quick Time.  Not sure how they can sell such a product, clearly labeled for a small block ford and a TKX tranny.

The swap out was fairly easy, replaced the pilot bearing again!

Mostly finished with the brake lines, driveshaft is on order, replaced the original awful Speedmaster driveshaft hoop that wouldn't bolt together because each of the circle halves were not actually half circles!  And the metal was so thick it would have taken a press to bend them to where they needed to be.

Had a nice visit with Jeff who is local to me and building HM-2017.  It was refreshing to hear another person talk about slowing the build, enjoying the process, and making the car how you want it.  So thats helped deal with some of the lack of progress.

Met a guy at a local car hop who just finished a Factory 5 cobra, and just went through the CA DMV reg process, so that will be a good resource to have.  He has some interesting mods on his car, including the standalone 95 mustang ABS brake module, no ECU needed apparently.  He spent 10 years building his. 

A few more days and the driveshaft hoop will be mounted, brake lines done and bled, fuel line routed, and will be time to put the cockpit tub on and continue work. 

[Greg K]

I have the Speedmaster driveshaft hoop, was the same way, once it is bolted together and a little muscle, it works. Anything wider and height wise, will not fit in driveshaft tunnel.

[Bass And Hot Rods]

Just a quick update.  Things moving slowly for a change.  The whole bell housing debacle got to be unmanageable after I was unable to install my starter into it.  So, I bit the bullet and just purchased the Quick Time bell housing, and was able to get Summit to refund me the money on their faulty safety bell housing.

In the end, the Summit bell housing was 1/2" shorter than the Quick Time.  Not sure how they can sell such a product, clearly labeled for a small block ford and a TKX tranny.

The swap out was fairly easy, replaced the pilot bearing again!

Mostly finished with the brake lines, driveshaft is on order, replaced the original awful Speedmaster driveshaft hoop that wouldn't bolt together because each of the circle halves were not actually half circles!  And the metal was so thick it would have taken a press to bend them to where they needed to be.




Had a nice visit with Jeff who is local to me and building HM-2017.  It was refreshing to hear another person talk about slowing the build, enjoying the process, and making the car how you want it.  So thats helped deal with some of the lack of progress.

Met a guy at a local car hop who just finished a Factory 5 cobra, and just went through the CA DMV reg process, so that will be a good resource to have.  He has some interesting mods on his car, including the standalone 95 mustang ABS brake module, no ECU needed apparently.  He spent 10 years building his. 

A few more days and the driveshaft hoop will be mounted, brake lines done and bled, fuel line routed, and will be time to put the cockpit tub on and continue work.

You and I are running basically the same engine/transmission combo.  I'd be interested in the driveshaft info.  Thanks.

[Kamal]

Greg,

I misspoke.  It was a trans-dapt 4140.  It's black, and I began stripping bolts trying to tighten it to shape. 

Larry, the length is 16 1/16 inch.  Of course there will be a slight variation depending on where your axle is located.  My axle has a 1350 size U-joint.  I was quoted about a week turnaround for a steel driveshaft from Modern Driveline. Not sure how much variation is acceptable in the length, you may just want to wait to get your tranny installed first.  You would hope that the tranny and motor mount are installed identically in our chassis', but who knows.

[Kamal]

OK more slow going progress, but have some pics.  Almost ready to get the cockpit tub on, and I believe things will move forward more quickly.  Life has somewhat gotten in the way unexpectedly, but I think those delays are sorted!

- Modern Driveline was slow to respond to my driveshaft request, so I found a local guy in SF to make the driveshaft, Frank Wallace.  Should be completed today/tomorrow.  Turns out that Modern Driveline contracts with a different local company in San Jose to make their driveshafts, and they sent me straight to them due to their own delay being at SEMA, but decided that Frank was the way to go.

- Mounted the in tank fuel pump, the Corvette fuel filter/regulator, and created the fuel lines with the -6an fittings.  Completed the brake line install.  Completed the clutch slave assembly.  I think that essentially completes the undercarriage stuff once the driveshaft is in.

- Drilled and tapped 1/4-20 stainless allen head bolts for any hardware attached to the frame, ie the brake and fuel lines, fuel filter, and e-brake cables.  Wasn't thrilled with the self tapping screws that came with the kit, had upgraded to 10-32 machine screws initially, but still felt like they were too weak.  The 1/4-20 worked out great.

- Had the Wilwood hub caps machined down to fit inside the knock-off hub adapters - by none other than - Roger Kraus himself.  Their shop is about 10 minutes from my house, and he has a machine shop in there.

Enjoy the pics.  We got a great dump of snow up in Lake Tahoe, ski resorts are opening weeks early and with more terrain then usual for prior to Mid-December, so going to give the car more rest and hit the slopes.  Hopefully the next update will include the dash, steering, radiator, and headers.  Lets say by this coming Thursday?   

[Redstang69]

Looks like you're making progress.
You might want to relocate the brake light switch to a somewhat more accessible place in case it needs changed it, unless you have access to a car lift. A few guys on here have reported them not lasting very long.
The filter regulator mounting turned out nice.
Also, not sure if that's your final spot for the master cylinder reservoirs but I don't think they'll fit there. Plus the heat from the headers would probably melt them.

[Kamal]

Those reservoirs are just there for the initial bleeding.  I will be using the remote ones.

Had not thought of needing to change the brake sender switch, and I figured a good jack would get me enough clearance to slide under and access it.  But you have a good point, and I'll look into it.  It was also a way to use the lines and hardware I had, though easily changeable at this point. 

Is there a preferred method to control the brake lights?

Thank you for the comments! 

[Redstang69]

You might be able to get enough clearance with a jack. I'm not sure that I'm as far along as you at this point so my experience is minimal. If you look at my build thread I put mine up by the front of the footbox so that it might be easier to access. Also, instead of screwing mine directly into the tee fitting I might add a short piece of vertical line to keep some fluid there if I ever do need to change it, might help mitigate air getting into the rest of the brake system.
IMO the preferred method to control the brake lights would be a switch off of the brake pedal "arm". Like on most older passenger vehicles. Bruce fabricated one and it looked like it worked pretty well. Greg and I have discussed it at length and there is really just no good way to fit a switch in our footbox with for mounted pedals.

[Bob Worley]

Looks like you have the brake pressure switch installed on rear brake circuit?!     80% of the braking pressure goes to the front brakes, you wont get a signal to the brake lights using the rear brakes until you are really locking them all up.    It needs to be on the front brake line.

[FFR428]

Nice job on things. Don't forget the vent in the 9" housing. Mine was located with the axle seals and T bolts n nutz package.

[Kamal]

Thank you!

I ditched the brake light sender, and am first going to look into a manual switch before I redo the front lines, which are all done and bled.  Thanks for the heads up, didn't even consider the pressure there.

Maybe I'll just put a toggle switch for the brake lights on the dash, next to the electric fan switch?? 

Funny how much variation in our kits - I had no t-bolts or axle seals.  My axle shafts came preassembled with the sealed bearings from John's Industries, and had to buy T-bolts, as the Wilwood stuff instructed to reuse the old bolts.