HM-2040 Build

[Kamal]

Greg, thank you for the heads up. Thank you very much. I think I'll go ahead and call Wilwood technical because it's a Wilwood pedal and Wilwood master cylinder and Wilwood brakes, so they should know exactly how things should go together.

Ben, I think I'm doing this project backwards from everybody else. Cobra first then hopefully kids. Lol

[Greg K]

Post your Wilwood part numbers for the calipers here and what size masters you have and I'll give you an idea of where you are at when the balance bar is neutral.

[Bob Worley]

....
Bob, I'll get you that part number tomorrow when I'm back at home.  However, you would need to be sure that the axle is the same, as the kits have slight variations for the many variations of the ford 9".  Wilwood wants an identification of the flange, as well as the "axle offset" to determine the brake kit.

https://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/BrakeKitAxleFlange

I"m pretty sure I have the 'BIG FORD" flange, from past memory.     I bookmarked this kit on my Summit Racing account:  https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-140-7140

[Kamal]

I'll get you guys the info tonight, in Tahoe on my skis at the moment.

Kamal

[Kamal]

Finding this sticker makes me want to use a simple round air cleaner!

[Kamal]

Ok here is the information about my brakes.  FWIW, the pick sheet from Hurricane indicated that the two 3/4" master cylinders were for "Brake/clutch" and the 7/8" master was for "Brake".

The rear Wilwood kit is part number 140-13207, Big Bearing Ford, New Style, 2.50" offset.

The rear caliper part number is 120-11481

The front Wilwood brake kit is 140-13378

The front caliper is part number 120-11482

I'm fixing to drive this thing in about 3 weeks, so please help me to get the master cylinders properly placed!

Thank you very much!!

[Kamal]

For the purpose of accountability, here's my list of work to get this thing in go cart running format in 3 weeks:

- pressure test gas tank
- tighten all fuel lines
- move master cylinders and bleed
- install heat shield on the cockpit tub
- paint and install firewall sheet aluminum
- lower cockpit tub on frame, place body, align, remove body, bolt cockpit tub
- install steering bearings, shaft, and parts
- Seat and belt mounting
- place wiring harness
- cover dash with vinyl and install gauges
- install dash/wiring
- install radiator, filler neck, hoses, and fan
- paint and install engine compartment side panels
- mount master cylinder reservoirs
- mount overflow tank
- wire up engine compartment
- mount battery and run cable to the starter
- install roll bar for drive testing

Anything major I'm missing? 

[Greg K]

This is where your brake balance will be and recommend as a starting point. Make sure balance bar is adjusted equally on each side of the pedal, clevises are equal distance from pedal in center, master cylinder push rods also adjusted equally to the clevises. With that you will have a brake bias of 68.5:31.5 front to rear, with the 7/8 master to the rear calipers and 3/4 master to the front calipers. Front caliper piston area is 4.8 and rear piston area is 3.0, based on the part numbers you provided.
Most RWD cars will have 60-70 front bias.

Ok here is the information about my brakes.  FWIW, the pick sheet from Hurricane indicated that the two 3/4" master cylinders were for "Brake/clutch" and the 7/8" master was for "Brake".
The rear Wilwood kit is part number 140-13207, Big Bearing Ford, New Style, 2.50" offset.
The rear caliper part number is 120-11481
The front Wilwood brake kit is 140-13378
The front caliper is part number 120-11482
I'm fixing to drive this thing in about 3 weeks, so please help me to get the master cylinders properly placed!

Thank you very much!!

[Kamal]

Thank you so much! How did you learn all that stuff?

I'll go ahead and change the masters around and set the pedal to your recommendation, and will give some feedback after the first drive.  Will likely take the car to a skid pad to do some basic testing.

[Kamal]

Also wanted to cross check about my dashboard features. 

I plan to run the provided headlight switch, ignition switch, toggle switch for the fan, toggle switch for the high beams, button for horn, and button for the starter.  Am I missing anything?

I will run an electrical cut off, but not on the dash.  The ignition switch does have a start position, but I'm going to run a starter button.

There will be no HVAC, footbox blower, radio, or wipers. 

Thank you.

[aarvig]

I recommend a switch under the dash that supplies power to the in-tank fuel pump so you can turn off the fuel pump if the car is parked.  Effective disabling device for anti-theft.  My car is EFI so I installed a relay in the trunk for the fuel pump and made a switch in front of the steering column that shuts off power to that circuit.  Works slick.  I also use a battery switch (big red switch) on the back of the cockpit that runs wiring through it for the park/neutral safety switch.  Both of these are disabling devices for anti-theft.

[Kamal]

Thank you for the suggestions, I'll take a look.

Is the neutral safety switch so the engine won't crank in gear?  I had planned to not have any bells and whistles at all, except for some electrical disabling to the system, and maybe fuel pump as well now that you mention it.

I also can't imagine parking it out of my sight....do you go park places with yours and leave the area, like shopping, etc?

[Greg K]

Another suggestion may be an inertia switch inline for the fuel pump too. https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=87
Comment on your brake testing, I'd also drive normally for awhile (50-100 miles) before really going at them and bedding them in, this is allow the pads to conform to the rotors.

[Redstang69]

I second Greg's suggestion for an inertia switch for the fuel pump.
I'd also highly suggest an inline fuse on your main power feed from the battery. However this gets pretty involved and you may be too far along to add that into things. If you'd like more info I can elaborate.

[Kamal]

Definitely elaborate.  I Havnt done any battery work.  I plan to run a micro sized battery in the engine compartment.

I was going to attach the large cable directly to the starter, and a smaller wire to a cut off switch to power the rest of the car.  Or so I'm planning...