HM-2040 Build

[dawger]

As usual late to the party, have to check on the numbers, I went with the biggest brake 12.19 inch rotor set up that would fit behind a 15 inch wheel Wilwood offer from Hurricane. I believe at the time I was told to use the two 3/4" master cylinders for the brakes and the 7/8" one for the clutch. I will have to take a look to double check to see if that is what I did.

Michael

[Kamal]

Thats how I had mine set up originally, however, Greg K indicated differently, and ran the numbers for me based on my calipers. 

As well, the parts sheet that came with the kit indicated that the two 3/4" masters were for the clutch and brake. 

I did switch mine, and I marginally get enough clutch travel at this point, but it does release.  I'm sure one more bleeding and the throw will be ok.

[Redstang69]

I'm anxious to see the battery mounting in the front that you're planning. I'd really like to do that but it doesn't seem like there's room anywhere, maybe one of those minis will fit though. My concern is the main power feed running from the trunk up to the front. Here are a couple options:
1. Run two power feeds from trunk to the front, one will go straight to the starter (starter solenoid mounted in the trunk) the other will be fused back at the trunk and provide power to everything on the car. Greg K did this. Definitely the simplest.
2. Use one power feed wire from the trunk, fuse this wire at the trunk. This will require a solenoid that gets energized at the same time as the starter solenoid and will bypass the fuse. The fuse can't take the high inrush current of the starter.
3. Similar to 2, but use a circuit breaker instead of a fuse and a second solenoid isn't required. I have one of these breakers but haven't tested it to see if it'll hold up to the starter current.
https://ceautoelectricsupply.com/product/manual-resetting-circuit-breakers/

[Greg K]

I did switch mine, and I marginally get enough clutch travel at this point, but it does release.  I'm sure one more bleeding and the throw will be ok.

You can also give your slave push rod an adjustment to preload the clutch fork 1/16-1/8" which will help.

[dawger]

Kamal,
Greg K got me to thinking so I had to go look at my brake set up. I have the two 3/4" cylinders on the front and rear brakes, the 7/8" is on the clutch. However, there must have been an update to the kits. I have-
Wilwood rear #140-7140 with caliper #120-6806.
Wilwood front #140-10440 with caliper #120-6816
Pads for both are #150-8850k

I didn't have get a chance to put a lot of miles on it before putting it away for winter storage. What brake stopping ability seemed ok, however I was being cautious and feeling the car out and not getting over my ski's as some may say. The true test will be in the spring and getting more comfortable with the car and how it reacts.

Michael-

[Greg K]

The piston area of the calipers are the same, just one is a dynalite and the other is a dynapro. All else being equal in pedal and balance bar will result in a 61:39 bias.

[dawger]

Thank you for the information Greg, I appreciate it. Like I mentioned the brakes seem ok to me for being manual, don't know about in a PANIC stop if they would be good enough or what. What is the ratio front to rear seems to be what people are shooting for?

Michael-

[Greg K]

Most rear wheel drive cars are 60-70% front biased.
I wanted my setup sized for 65:35 and ended up with 64:36 with a balanced and even setup.

So now back to Kamal's build...

[Kamal]

Speaking of my build, here we have an update with pictures.  I think this has been a lot of progress, and I expect things to start moving faster.

- Completed the cockpit tub coverings.  Used black heat shield and black wrinkle paint.  I've become conerned that the wrinkle paint won't be durable, but I did read that you can respray with a satin black and it will restore the finish pretty well.   I used the DEI Tunnel and Floor Shield in black, same stuff Greg used on his build.  I tried to wrap them around the front side, but the angles didn't allow that, so I had seams at the corners.   Originally wanted to use aluminum black HVAC tape to cover the corners, but the look wasn't good, so I created some aluminum pieces and did them in the black wrinkle.  Overall I'm happy with the work, though its not perfect.  I think it is unique, though. 

- Attached the steering bearing to the interior side of the tub, not sure if that was the right way, but it will definitely work, and no issue accessing the set screw.

- Completed all the details on the chassis, so its ready to take the cockpit tub permanently.  I had to center the rear axle and adjust the driveshaft hoop, I redid the master cylinders and added the brake switch to the front brake, tightened all the lines, added a few more tube hold downs.

- Created the apparatus to pressure test the gas tank.  I have a tool I made to do leakdown testing on 2-stroke engines, it will be perfect to use for this purpose.

- I mocked up the dash so you guys can chime in.  I will have a toggle for the fan, a toggle for the high beams, and two of the Lucas push buttons, one for starter and one for horn.  Any other switches will go under the dash.  Thoughts?

Next steps:

- Today I will be placing the cockpit tub and body on in order to align them.  Will remove the body, and get cracking on fastening down the cockpit tub, attaching the belts, seats, birdcage, radiator, wiring, and dash.  One the engine wiring is complete, I should be able to start the engine.  Aside from the battery and mount, I believe I have everything I need to get the car running.

[Kamal]

More pics

[Kamal]

More progress....and regress...

- Placed the cockpit tub and body on.  Looks like the cockpit tub needs to be "cocked" about 3/4" to the left, in order for the front wheel well spacing to be even.  Decided to remove all of the weatherstripping I had placed on the frame below the tub, and will take the advice to try to align the two pieces later when its time to fasten the body.

- Completed the steering system.  Gave a clean up with brush/sandpaper, and painted with clear coat.  Realize now that the steering shaft in the engine compartment probably needs high temp paint, as it come very close to the header, so will likely repaint that in the coming days.   The OD of the splined steering shaft was .750, but the OD of the brass bushings was .740, so I had to work carefully at removing material so the shat would fit in the brass bushings, and the carrier bearing could fit over the shaft.  All is installed, waiting for some 5/16 rivet nuts to finalize the mounting of the carrier bearing under the dash.  Also, I am missing the collar that goes over the shaft at the turn signal.  Looks like something I can make or get easily, but if anyone has a part number so I can order one, that would be great!

- Pressure tested the tank, with terrible results.  I put about 7 psi in the tank, and sprayed with soapy water.  There are many leaking pinholes along the welds.  Going to post elsewhere in the forum about my options for that. 

- Started in on the wiring.  Trying to determine the best way to deal with unneeded wiring, and need to review the Holley Sniper and MSD wiring diagrams.

[Kamal]

Further progress:

- Wiring harness laid up in the dash, and some of the dash wiring soldered.  Front and back wiring run, but I think I'm changing my engine wiring set up.  Details in the next few days!  Should be fun.

- For the removable dash option, I decided to use an insert nut into the fiberglass dash, with a bolt coming from up behind the upper frame.   

- Just a sneak peak of the body on the car for the first time.

[Kamal]

Ok lots of work getting done here, starting to feel bummed out that the majority of the mechanical work is now history! 

- Completed the dash, purchased the electric oil pressure gauge, as I didn't want an oil line coming into the car.  Created the wiring harness with all soldered connections.  Got the needed diodes for the turn signal indicator and wired that up.  I thought to cleanly run all of the wires, but in the end left slack on them so it would be easier to pull them out in the future, if need be.  Looks like a mess of spaghetti.

- Created a couple brackets to stiffen the steering wheel support.  Seemed a little flexible, and although attaching the dash will provide some stiffness, I thought that tying together the top and bottom of the dash supports would help with the steering wheel flex.  I used angle aluminum and trimmed it so ensure that it wouldn't interfere with the left side gauges or indicator lights.

- Used the KBS product to seal the gas tank.  Its done curing today, so will pressure test it post-haste.  Will also pressure test the radiator. 

- Completed the engine wiring.  The Holley Sniper has a mess of wires and connectors, so I got a plastic box and created a bracket for it at the back of the intake manifold, and basically created a wiring box that will hide under the eventual air cleaner.  The sniper has two large connector leads, a small lead for the handheld programmer, and an O2 lead.  I'm still succeeding in my goal of having nothing mounted on the firewall, other than the wire bundle coming out.  I chose that spot for the wire bundle so I could alternatively mount the wiring box, if needed, to the firewall.  In that case, the box would mount over the hole, and the bundle will come directly into the box. 

- On the front of the engine, I added a sandwich adapter for the oil temp and pressure senders, and ran a single loom up to the wiring box that contains the 3 sender wires, the coil wires, and the distributor wires.  There should be no other wires on the engine.  The starter has a built in solenoid (that does mean that I don't need an external solenoid?) and there will be a loom of 3 wires that come out of the wiring box and head down to the solenoid.     

- Created a couple brackets to mount the MSD box under the passenger dash.  Attached the headlight relay and the fuel pump relay under the dash.  Created an aluminum plate that will mount under the dash to give a place to attach a cutoff switch, lighter socket, and other switches. 

- Test fit the headers, and I will need to create some form of a relief or bend for two of the mounting holes, as the header tube keeps from getting the bolt in.  Any ideas how to do this in my garage?  They are Ceramic coated.  I'm using Remflex gaskets and Stage 8 locking bolts.  I thought to bypass the issue by running studs in the holes that don't have clearance.  Thoughts?

- Purchased an aluminum radiator shroud and a radiator hose fitting, which should arrive today.  Its a summit one with perfect dimensions for the radiator core at 19.5 x 22, but its opening is for a 14" radiator, so there may be a bit of trimming to do.  That should get the cooling system almost done.  Need to get a coolant catch can, create the missing radiator bracket, and plug off the extra outlet on the water pump.

[Kamal]

more Pics

[Redstang69]

Coming along fast. Dash turned out good. What adhesive did you use?
What's the deal with the diodes and turn signals?
I'm anxious waiting to hear about the lower radiator hose and pictures.
Lastly, what radiator bracket are you missing?