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HM2017 Build

Started by Jeff K, February 04, 2022, 01:26:12 PM

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Jeff K

Looking for projects while I wait for my engine, I decided to wired up the gauges in the dash.

Redstang69

Looks good Jeff, I'm kind of in the same boat while I wait on my cam.

Kamal

This may sound funny but I'm jealous if you guys working on your builds.  I'm "stuck" in Mexico on a preplanned vacation.  After a lot of little part delays, I feel like I'm ready to make rapid progress as soon as I can get back into the garage. 
HM-2040, shipped 09/01/2022.
408W
TKX
Trigo 427 wheels

Jeff K

I temporarily installed the wiring harness to see what was in store for me.  The manual was actually very helpful with the wiring.  A pleasant surprise.  I decided to deviate a little on the routing of the wires running to the headlights.  I added an auxiliary fuse box to power the foot box fans and USB port and any future needs.  I also added switches under the dash for turning the foot box fans on and off.  I added a switch even further under the dash as a cutoff.  The wiring was intimidating at first but as I worked through all the wires and connections, I became more comfortable with it.  And of course this forum helped a lot.

Jeff K

Not a lot of progress lately.  Still waiting on the engine.  Should be here in February.  I did box the upper frame vertical legs as suggested.  That should prevent any flex.  Thanks for the tip.  Also I added a bracket for the trunk latch catch and I relocated the seat brackets on the frame to match my seat locations.

Bass And Hot Rods

interesting.  You have a car waiting on an engine. I have an engine waiting on a car.  The world we live in.

Jeff K

I ended up replacing the hard aluminum fuel lines I had already installed.  The fittings were the compression type that used the brass compression sleeves.  I had read recently that they weren't recommended for the higher pressures of fuel injection systems.  I went with the push-lock type hose and fittings.  Sure was a lot easier to run the flexible hoses than the hard lines.  Should have done that in the first place.  Live and learn.

Redstang69

Those lines look good.
Are there screws on the bottom of the fuel filter clamps? If they're only on top, it might be tough to get to them to change the filter once the cockpit tub is on.

Jeff K

Good point.  The clamp screws are only on the top.  I'm pretty sure they'll be accessible but I'll double check access next time I have the cockpit tub on.  Thanks.

Jeff K

I've been doing some bodywork on my cobra lately while I continue to wait on an engine.  April is the latest ECD for the engine.  I discovered the outer door skins on my car are concaved about 0.1".  My initial thought was to add a couple layers of fiberglass mat and resin on the door to fill the depression.  Another option would be to use a fiber reinforced body filler.  The final option is to use normal body filler.  Although the depression isn't that deep, it is a wide area.  Does anyone have any thoughts?  Thanks.

Paul Proefrock

Before you flatten the door, it is wise to fill them with foam. Make them much more sturdy, ridgid and don't sound hollow when you shut them. Don't use normal spray foam, use the Door and Window type. The regular foam expands too much and will blow the doors apart.

I drilled holes on the inside and countersunk sunk the edges generously. Stick the straw of the foam in the hole and add foam. Let it solidify, then remove the  overflow from the countersink and fill with fiberglass.

This may expand the outside just slightly - not sure. But then you can flatten away.

Paul
https://65shlb.com   Documentation of a period correct build
https://prdcrrct.com  Affordable period correct components

Jeff K

Paul, thanks for the tip.  I had already copied what Mike did on HM1024 and injected construction adhesive between the panels.  Definitely makes it more solid.  I added it from the outside since I knew I was going to be adding filler to the outer surface.  Foam would have work also.

Jeff K

I haven't done much on my car lately but I did travel to Utah last week to help a friend swap out a Boss 302 for a real 427 in his Contemporary Cobra.  Good experience.

Redstang69

Pretty cool to be involved with that swap. Did your friend get it back up and running? Big difference in the way it runs and drives?

FFR428

#134
The Contemporary are very nice cars. You could buy them complete or as a kit. Many type of engines. GM and Ford. Saw them new in the late 70's at the NYC Auto show. Honestly I was looking for one of those before I went with Hurricane. Just could not find the price and engine I wanted. True story....in the late 90's I heard a rumor that Factory Five ended up with the body and molds and whatever was left. This was when FFR had 2 buildings. Saw some white fiberglass bodies outside with what seemed to be the body molds. I was picking up my new FFR kit so didn't think much of it. But possible those were what was left. Too bad.
This one looks very nice. High up on the Cobra food chain too.

From a 2009 article on Club Cobra. Peter Bayer, original owner of Contemporary until it sold to Burtis. Backs up my FFR comment.

• What happened to Contemporary's Body molds and frame jigs – Factory Five bought all the molds, jigs, fixture,,, etc. when Burtis went "down the tubes".
• Do you know what happened to frame tooling – See above
HM2027. Street model. 427 FE. Toploader 4 sp.