HM2017 Build

[Jeff K]

The IRS on my car uses an e-brake caliper that mounts on a thin bracket.  This thin bracket allows the caliper to rattle on the brake rotor when not engaged, which is most of the time.  Although I haven't driven the car yet to see how it works, this seemed like a less than ideal design.  To improve the design, I changed the way the caliper mounts to the bracket.  Now the caliper is supported across the width of the caliper.  Hopefully this makes for a better e-brake.

[Jeff K]

It seemed to me that the long, curved piece of metal on the upper frame which the dash screws to was too flimsy.  I hadn't read of any complaints on the forum, but I decided to beef it up regardless.  A friend owned a NAF cobra for a time, and he said he could see the dash shaking when he drove.  I didn't want any chance of that happening on my car, so I welded on a piece of ½" wide steel perpendicular.  This really made it solid.  I also welded up the cutouts on the lower angled piece of the frame as much as possible to strengthen that piece.  Then I took it a step further and added pieces tying the top curved piece to the lower angled piece.  The one on the driver's side is removable so it wouldn't be in the way when I install the dash.  I figured there'd be a lot of stress in this area from steering the car without power steering.  This is probably overkill but it can't hurt.

[Bruce N]

It seemed to me that the long, curved piece of metal on the upper frame which the dash screws to was too flimsy.  I hadn't read of any complaints on the forum, but I decided to beef it up regardless.  A friend owned a NAF cobra for a time, and he said he could see the dash shaking when he drove.  I didn't want any chance of that happening on my car, so I welded on a piece of ½" wide steel perpendicular.  This really made it solid.  I also welded up the cutouts on the lower angled piece of the frame as much as possible to strengthen that piece.  Then I took it a step further and added pieces tying the top curved piece to the lower angled piece.  The one on the driver's side is removable so it wouldn't be in the way when I install the dash.  I figured there'd be a lot of stress in this area from steering the car without power steering.  This is probably overkill but it can't hurt.

I like it

[Jeff K]

The original owner had already drilled the mounting holes for the windshield frame when I bought the kit from him.  But after I was done repositioning the body on the frame, the slots in the body no longer lined up with mounting points on the upper frame.  In addition, I wanted the windshield angle and position on the car to mimic original cobras more.  This required welding in new mounting points on the upper frame.  This allowed me to angle the windshield back to 45 degrees and move it forward some.

[Jeff K]

The frames of newer kits have horizontal flanges on the outer edges of the foot boxes that the cockpit tub sits on.  My frame did not have these flanges, but I had seen pictures on the forum that showed frames with flanges welded on.  I thought it was a good idea and did the same on my frame.  Now there's a good surface the cockpit tub can seal to.

[Jeff K]

When I test-fit the steering shaft, it contacted the front brake line.  This was caused by a brake fitting tab that was welded on in the wrong place.  I subsequently read on the forum that someone else had the same issue.  I cut off the tab and welded it back on lower.  This required re-bending the brake line.  The fix was straight forward but this shouldn't have ever been a problem.

[dawger]

Jeff,
Just noticed that you have the older style lower control arms that doesn't have the extra webbing on the curved portion to reduce flexing. May want to check with Hurricane about switching then out for the newer style. There was also an issue with the welds on the nut portion of the control arm where the heim joint was connected due to cracking, may want to check into those issues.

Michael

[Jeff K]

Michael,
Thanks for the tip.  I'll check with Hurricane about this.

[Greg K]

This is what he was referring to on the LCA. See pic.

[Jeff K]

373 days after placing the order, I received my new Tremec TKX transmission today.  Now if I only had an engine.  It's still on order.

[Jeff K]

After I got done trimming the top of the dash that protruded beyond the upper frame to clear the underside of the body, I felt the gauge holes were now too high on the dash.  To fix this I sectioned the dash, lowering the gauge section by a half inch.  Looks better now, I think.

[Redstang69]

Good idea for fixing that problem.

[Jeff K]

I filled in the factory cut side vent openings on the body.  I plan on reposition them a little lower.  I'll finalize the position later after I have an engine and side pipes installed.

[Jeff K]

I took a different approach than Bruce did to moving the door latch closer to the frame mounted striker.  Mostly because I couldn't figure out how he separated the bonded panels.  My method probably created more bodywork for myself, but the results were the same.  While I was at it, I also moved the door latch higher up on the door.

[Bob Worley]

That does look much better.  What did you use for the threaded holes, for the screws through the latch to attach to?