HM-2030 Build Log - The Storm Ahead

[Greg K]

Time for our weekly post or at least it seems that is what it is...Anyhow, I planned on using the side vent louvers from Vraptor speedworks, and the openings that were precut from Hurricane were not exactly correct. Driver side had a bad angle and the passenger side was cut long. I don't do fiberglass and so I made the best of it and optimized the opening for these new louvers. I scribed new outlines for them and proceeded to cut a rough opening to accommodate the new vents. Louvers are easily formed and then a center brace is installed that lock them in place, will have a friend put a tig weld tack on the back side at each end on the center brace.
Openings still need some radiusing in the corners and a bit more clearance. What I like is the blade edge will be at the outside surface of the opening when its done.. Will be powder coated later. I should get a full pic of them assembled tomorrow.

[Greg K]

After working with the side vents, finally removed my side pipes from the boxes and mocked the up. Pretty straight forward and no surprises other than a bung I won't be using and need a plug for it. I increased the flange holes to 5/16 and will use 1/4" bolts to fasten them.

[Greg K]

Close up of side louvers. Still deciding if I leave them raw, powder coat or anodize them.

[Greg K]

This morning I visited our local DMV theft bureau office to schedule an inspection to verify serial number and whatever they want to look at before a title is issued. They should be able to do this within the next two weeks. I also went to another DMV office to submit the title application and obtain a registration and tag. 45 minutes later I walked out with a lighter wallet with a tag & registration in hand. It's registered as a '65 Shelby with the VIN number same as chassis number. After the theft bureau pays me a visit it should take 30-60 days for the title to show up. Now to get that body on and mount the the lights I'm ready to get it on the road.

[s_reynolds]

Each area seems to be a little different, but when I did my registration in NC the inspector checked the serial numbers for theft (even actually crawled under the car, had to jack it up for him) but checked that the lights, etc were all working as well.

[Greg K]

It was time for an alignment of the front end. I pretty much decided awhile I ago I would tackle this my self in measuring and adjusting the caster, camber and toe. I had squared up the rear end some time ago so that was done, so on to the front end.
Started with 24 pounds of air in the tires all around. Re-checked the ride height and made some notes for future reference. Also measured the rake in chassis and had 1.0 degree from front to rear. This gave me 4.5" to lowest point on my oil pan and 4.5 inches at the bottom of the shock mount at the rear.

Earlier I had test fit the caster camber adapter rim mount I picked up recently, very easy to work with. After getting the car off the wood stands, I cut up some 1/4" thick plywood for the rear tires to sit on and for the front I picked up 2 pair of 12x12 .125" thick aluminum plates. These would be my turn plates, used grease between the plates to allow the front end to move and not bind up the suspension. These worked great.

I would measure and adjust caster first, then camber and then toe at the end in that order. To measure the caster, with this setup, starting from straight ahead, one turns the wheel out 20 degrees, level and zero the gauge, then turn it in 20 degrees from straight, level gauge and then read the caster. Made the adjustments one can make with the given upper control arm components. As Paul P indicated some time ago, a shorter tube is needed up top to reduce caster more than what I was able to achieve. Measured camber and adjusted, no issues here, pretty easy and quick. I went thru this procedure 2-3 times on each side for repeatability and after locking it all down.
Caster ended up at 7 degrees positive and negative camber at .625 degrees. Will see how this goes, may need to reduce caster some and get a pair of shorter tubes for the caster adjustment.
On to measuring and setting the toe. Here is where I decided to string align the car. his took the most time since I was working alone. I made up some equal length pieces of conduit with equal length cuts in it for my string. Goal is to align strings parallel to the center line of the car. Set the conduits on jack stands at height of the center of the wheels at the front and rear of car. Measured the distance of the line from the axle which was squared up previously, and measured from a point on the frame forward behind the front tires on each side till equal distance on each side of the car. I think I had to go around the car at least a half dozens times or more to get these lines parallel. A second person would be helpful because of the back and forth from side to side measuring and making small adjustments to get it right. Once I got them aligned it was easy from there and be careful not to bump the conduit or jack stands.
As a check, I checked the rear wheels and they were square to the line. Front not so much, RF was out an 1/8 inch and LF was in 3/8 of an inch. Was able to get both the LF and RF toed in 1/16 each for 1/8 inch total toe. As for the line I used, 60lb mono yellow line with about 3 oz. of weight and I used to cheap chalk line reels where I replaced the string with the fishing line.
Overall I was pleased how this all worked out and have a setup I can always go back to or make adjustments if need be.

[Redstang69]

Thanks for the detailed explanation of how that was all done. Looks like a slightly tedious but simple task. Lot of check, measure, recheck, adjust, repeat.
Almost go cart time it looks like.

[Greg K]

It was good practice because I plan on doing it again soon. I think 7 degrees of caster is more than I need and want to get it to at least 5 or little less which is going to require replacing the 5" tube with a 4.5" tube. Same procedure after swapping the front adjusting tube. Ordered the tube from Jet Racing out of Nebraska.

In the meantime, wasn't sure how much outside work I could get done today with the threat of rain, I messed around with the headlights. After figuring out how the headlight housing gets held in with those little tabs and screws, I proceeded to work on the openings on the body, did a little sanding and removal of some excess fiberglass in the light openings. I got ahold of Metro Moulded headlamp gaskets which are a little larger and thicker than what comes in the kit and I like how they also hug the trim ring. I used them as template for the holes that needed to be drilled, will need longer screws because of the thicker gasket and will probably back them up with a lock nut instead of the metal retainer clips they come with.
Headlight housings are Hella, DOT approved, will use an LED bulb with them, not DOT approved  .
Also worked on and fitted the turn signal lamps, had to enlarge the hole to drivers side to allow the ground to get thru the hole and drilled mounting holes for them too. I'm using the L692 instead of the winged type L539.

[Greg K]

I wasn't really happy with the alignment numbers I achieved last week so I decided to change out a few things this weekend.
Started with purchasing two 4.5" swedged tubes for the upper control arm. I was at 7 degrees of caster and wanted 4.5- 5 at most. The 4.5" long tube was able to get me the 4.5 degrees, but it ended up making the camber go from .6 degrees to 3.0 degrees. There was not going to be enough adjustment on the back tube to my liking and if I had another pair of 4.5" long tubes it would of worked well I think. I ended up shimming the cross bar with stainless washers amounting to .275". The washers took out 2 degrees of camber. The rest would come from adjusting the rear tube on the upper control arm.
After all these modifications, I ended up with 4.5 degrees of caster on the left and right, .40 degrees of camber left and right and a little less than an 1/8" total toe. I then took it for a little ride up and down the side street a few times, felt good, no video, maybe tomorrow.

[Greg K]

Not the greatest quality, but a little video from today, very short side street.

[FFR428]

Very nice! Sounds good too!

[s_reynolds]

Doing great work Greg. Enjoying following your build.

[Greg K]

Don't have much to show this weekend. Messed around with the body a little, cut slots in the cockpit tub for the shoulder harnesses, and mocked up and drilled mounting holes for the rear tail lights after sanding the high spots on the light pads. The lights are different from the norm, they are LED with a solid metal bezel. So close to throwing the body on...

[Greg K]

Worked on a few things today...prepped and mounted the hood and trunk lid hinges to the frame. One of the trunk hinge arms is going to need some manual adjustment with a little more bending to match the other length wise from the hinge barrel (about a 1/2") if that makes sense. Didn't take pics but will later on before I make the adjustment. Hood hinge positions look pretty good.
Redid some wire loom clamps in the cockpit, will be better for when finishing the area below the door sills.
Fit the fuel filler to the body, I originally wanted the fuel filler to be at an angle with the hinge at about 10 o'clock but settled on the hinge being at 9. When the cap was opened at 10 it would hit the body and at 9 it has plenty of clearance, pic doesn't show it, but there's 3/16 of a gap when open. Did not want to raise the base for the cap. 3" hole saw and drill body for the mounting screw pattern and done.

[Redstang69]

Greg, do you have an after pic. of your loom rework? If you have a before pic. that would be good too, but I could go back through your build and find one probably.