HM-2030 Build Log - The Storm Ahead

[Greg K]

Line for the clutch slave cylinder completed over the weekend.

[Greg K]

Not much to report as of late. Did finish up the fuel line install. Used nylon braided 4 layer AN hose and fittings from Raceflux.

[Greg K]

Also decided to get the ride height set closer to what is recommended. When the coil overs were assembled, they were put together at full extension and were at full droop while on the chassis dolly. Now that the weight is on the springs and shocks, the ride height is not even close. QA1 has a chart for our shocks for the recommended ride height. Was able to get the front shock ride height to 12-1/4" and the rear at 14-1/4". This is measured center to center on the mounting bolts for the shock. This gave me 7" ground clearance up front and 5-3/4" clearance at the rear. These are measured to the main frame rail. The overall clearance will reduce more later with more weight to be added with the cockpit tub, upper frame section, body work and the rest of the parts.
Pics show the QA-1 chart, 1/4" of thread left on front shock and 3/4" on rears to achieve my current ride heights.

[Greg K]

Finished up my starter cables and mounted starter relay in trunk area. Still need to add a ring terminal for the jumper wire on the starter.

[Greg K]

While working on the cables today, FedEx delivered my Denny's driveshaft and installed it after I finished the cables. No issues and fit perfect, still debating to use a hoop or not.

[MFE III]

I would recommend installing a driveshaft safety hoop. The driveshaft is super close to your body with only the fiberglass tunnel protecting you.

[Redstang69]

The wiring looks really nice Greg.

[Greg K]

Thanks Ben...more to come on the wiring.

Well I gave into installing a driveshaft hoop. Cheap insurance, obtained from Speedmaster, had to remove about 5 inches on each leg to fit the x-brace and drill new holes to fit existing bolts in x-brace. Height is ok for tunnel, but the ends of bolts may have to be cut for width, its going to be real close.

[Greg K]

I finally decided how I would finish off the foot boxes and use for a heat barrier. Ended up using DEI's Floor & Tunnel Shield. It is a peel and stick product with a heavy embossed skin on it with a fiber core. Cut it with utility knife and heavy duty scissors.
Will apply some metallic silicone caulk to the raw edges and seams next week and may use 1/2" aluminum trim on top edges.
The aluminum panel for the dash firewall and all other aluminum for engine area have been powder coated just like the frame, dash panel may go on next week too.

[s_reynolds]

Looks good. That should help with the heat.

[Greg K]

Got the edges of the heat shield caulked and trim mounted. Test fit the dash fire wall metal, is a little high from the center out to the passenger notch. Will trim when I get back to it.

[Bruce N]

Got the edges of the heat shield caulked and trim mounted. Test fit the dash fire wall metal, is a little high from the center out to the passenger notch. Will trim when I get back to it.

Looks nice and clean Greg Good job! Should definitely help with the heat

[Greg K]

Thanks, now I have to decide is if I add additional inside or not. Sealing up the upper frame notch later and between sides of the body and front edge of foot boxes will be key to keeping any engine heated air from entering cockpit.

[Greg K]

Awhile back I noticed my engine builder was using a different type of spark plug wire loom separator on higher dollar builds, not sure why I hadn't noticed before, but I had to have them, just wasn't happy with what I had. Before and after pics of wire separators.

I've also have been wanting to get my headers mounted for some time and attempted to tackle the driver's side. Which should be a fairly easy item to install, is having some challenges. First off, I have 3 bolts I'm having issues with on the drivers side. Using 1" long ARP 3/8 bolts with 5/16 heads, Had to grind the bolt flange to get them on these three and one I cannot get a 5/16 wrench on. These 3 will have to be fully inserted into flange to start threading into head. Still tricky and still need to figure on how to tighten one of them. Looked over the passenger side and it appears I'll have a slight issue with one. Will see how I manage later today.

[Greg K]

What a day...was successful in getting the headers bolted up , not sure about the rest of you, this was one of the more difficult items to deal with single handedly and required a lot of patience on my part. There ended up being a few other bolts that just did not want to cooperate and more mods to the headers and bolts were done. Maybe ARP should be making 3/8 bolts with 1/4 inch heads for additional clearance. Actually, I think the headers need more straight running on the sides from the flange or a smaller diameter tube to help the transition from rectangle to round. See previous post and pictures above.

What I ended doing were the following to allow more clearance:
1. Opened up all bolt holes in header flange to 7/16. End to end clearance was not allowing the outer end bolts to even start on both headers. I think this helped the most in fitting them up along with the others below.
2. Had to grind off some of the flange on many of the bolts to go thru the header flange and be able to start them into the heads.
3. Ground all the washers all on one side to prevent any interference.
4. Took a 5/16 box wrench and ground it down on the outside to thin the wall of it and still had some issues on few bolts.

I'm sure I'm not the first to have these issues, but I think some refinements could be in order.