News:

Welcome to the NEW Hurricane Motorsports discussion group.
Take time to browse around and get familiar.
Very similar to the previous forum but
there are some subtle differences

Main Menu

HM-2030 Build Log - The Storm Ahead

Started by Greg K, August 25, 2020, 07:32:02 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

dawger

Nicely done, where were you able to locate a spindle wrench? And what brand is it? Anything would be appreciated.

Michael-

Greg K

#91
@Jim - very small difference between the two, but what I found was the 1-59/64 used more often for the K772 ball joint.

@ Michael - Assuming you mean the ball joint socket? Found on Amazon, Sunex 10213 now at a lower price and under $20

Kruse

Quote from: Bruce N on June 02, 2021, 02:43:22 PM
Quote from: Kruse on June 02, 2021, 02:29:01 PM
oops, missed that part.

Any input on the spacer issue on the control arms?

things move around a little when welded. I usually grind them to fit when I put one together if too tight. or adjust the width of the arm. each one is just a tiny bit different.

FFR428

Things are really moving along Greg!! Nice to see.
HM2027. Street model. 427 FE. Toploader 4 sp.

Greg K

Thanks Glenn, don't hesitate to call if you need anything.

Greg K

Some wheels showed up yesterday afternoon... 8)

FFR428

Very nice. I almost got those too. Great look.
HM2027. Street model. 427 FE. Toploader 4 sp.

Greg K

Kind of a paint and wait kinda weekend...
Decided to paint the stock kit rotor hats and edges with primer and finish coats in black. Left to bake in the sun.
Stock kit rear calipers painted with a cast iron color. My front calipers will be Wilwood metric racing model.
Next time, buy rotors pre-coated.

s_reynolds


Greg K

#99
This weekend has been one of those for looking ahead and planning my next moves and not much wrenching.
For my wheel center caps, I debated between various cobra logos or something different, decided on using the Hurricane logo. Was able to get a preview of how they will look. Will be 45mm in diameter.
The rod end retaining washers came in this week so I installed them instead of just using the lock washer on the upper control arms.
Brake and fuel line plumbing is next on my list along with mounting my fuel tank. Mocked up how I will plumb the rear using a tee on the driver side tab on the axle. As you can see in the pics, I'll be using a braided line from the frame tab which seems to be more rearward than I have seen before on other builds. 90 degree hose end at frame tab and straight on top. From the tee on drivers side, there will be another braided line to the driver side caliper, hard line over to the passenger side tab and adapter, then braided line to the passenger side caliper. The rest along the frame and the front should be pretty straight forward.
Last Friday, Alec sent a pic of all the aluminum panels that I had powder coated, so they should be on there way soon with all of the door, trunk and hood hinges too.

s_reynolds

I like the powder coat you have on the frame. Good progress.

Paul Proefrock

Greg
I have a similar idea for the steering wheel center, but to use the Terlingua logo. Do you plan to do the wheelcenters or are you having them done?

Let's talk - sent you a PM

Paul
https://65shlb.com   Documentation of a period correct build
https://prdcrrct.com  Affordable period correct components

Greg K

Engine assembly has started...

Greg K

#103
Not a whole lot done over the weekend, again some work, thinking, planning and messing up.  ;)
Wasn't happy with the way the banjo brake fitting was working out on the rear calipers and then messed one up yesterday and decided to do something different, so waiting on new fittings for them.
As for the front end, hub rotors were installed, dust cap with kit was for a GM and not Ford, and wouldn't fit. So I sourced a couple from the local parts store that did fit the hubs.
Once I bolted on the caliper bracket, the Wilwood metric racing caliper with pads went on. You'll notice a gap between the pad and rotor, need to get a set of pad spacers for the calipers. The Ford rotor is .200" thinner than the GM rotor that the metric calipers are made for, so they make .190" spacers that go between the piston and pad so that the piston does not need to extend out as far as the pads wear. This is pretty typical for when you have this combinations, so these are on their way before I complete.

Greg K

Now that I had a hubs and the calipers on, I got a chance to throw a wheel on and see how it all worked out, plenty of clearance.