HM-2037 Build Thread

[Redstang69]

Thanks guys!!
For reference, I put about 2.5 gallons of gas in the tank, did not prime any of the fuel lines, but I did fill the carb bowls through the vents. The engine cranked 3-4 revolutions and fired right off and kept running until I shut it off. Surprisingly it primed up the fuel lines on it's own and ran off the bowls long enough to get things primed up.
Yes I ran it for 20-23min. at 2000 rpm to get the cam and lifters to properly break in. I used a Lucas break in oil. Have put 3.5 gallons of coolant in prior to first start and probably need another half gallon or so to top it back off.

My daughter filmed the actual first start so I'll leave you guys with one that was after the 20min. break in run.
https://youtube.com/shorts/NniSppr-4pc?feature=share

Also, I went with the 10" air cleaner. Fit well and simple clean look.

[Kamal]

Great milestone, congratulations.  Curious to see how things go when you start driving it around, I know on my build there are some kinks to work out for sure.

Looks like you snuck in a very nice original coolant overflow tank, and didn't write about it.  I want one of those!  Do tell...

[Redstang69]

Thanks Kamal, there's a little about the tank back on page 6 reply #87.
Essentially I bought an original tank off a 66 Galaxy with a 390. Used a small block thermostat housing to get the dimensions for a small block pattern and drew it up in CAD. Sent the drawing to a fab shop and they cut me out a flange to fit the small block pattern and slip into the 90 tube on the tank. I then had to heat the tube to melt the old solder, pull the big block flange off the tube and pull the tube out of the tank. I cut 1" off the vertical part of the tube, then soldered it back into the bottom of the tank and also soldered the new steel flange to the tank tube. I also was able to keep the original mounting bracket, but had to cut material out of it and invert it also. Final thing was to get a barb fitting and weld into the flange for the water pump bypass. I think I have $120 in it with having to buy the proper solder to be able to do the steel to brass. You can buy them already done for around $400 I think.
I say I did this, but really all I did was draw the flange in CAD, my good friend did all the soldering/tig work to put everything together so I owe it all to him.
I'm pretty proud of how this piece turned out and worked out to give it an ever so slight big block look.

[Redstang69]

I cave, I'm a little lost on the seat brackets. The way I have the driver's seat mounted right now works but I don't feel it's right. Currently I put the seat belt between the seat frame and the slider, on the rear bolts. I added two washers to the front mounting bolts to keep the slider level. I then put two washers between the sliders and the tub at all four bolts and bolted this down through the tub and to the holes in the frame. Seems like when I get the carpet the sliders are going to snag on the carpet. One of the others on here pointed that out as well.
Then I have two regular tubes. Not sure if these are used to mount the passenger seat (since it shouldn't have sliders, however I received two sets of sliders) or if these are supposed to be used on the driver's seat to raise the sliders so they won't catch on the carpet.
If the tubes are used on the driver's seat then does the passenger seat frame bolt directly to the cockpit tub?
I thought this would be really simple, I must be making it harder than it is.

[Kamal]

Regarding the driver seat sliders, I put my seat belts below the sliders, and I used a 3/4" or so spacer to lift the sliders off the floor.  I found that because the fiberglass of the floor isn't flat, the mechanism was binding and worked very poorly, was impossible to move the seat.  After raising the sliders up on the spacers, it now works poorly.  Which is an improvement over very poorly/not working.   

For the passenger seat, each box section tube has sets of holes.  before you install the tube to to the seat bottom, you install the 4 bolts that will be long enough to go through the floor, through the 4 large holes first, so that the head of the bolts will be inside the tube.  Then you take that assembly, and mate it to the bottom of the seat, and put the supplied bolts up through the bottom of the tube, and thread into the seat bottom.  Call me if you want to go through it over facetime or something.  I'm available mostly any time. 

I plan to ditch the seat sliders for something more....less poorly functioning.  I guess I need to measure the distance between the holes on the seat bottoms, unless someone has that handy. 

[s_reynolds]

FWIW, I did something similar to Kamal only with the spacers to get the rails up off the tub floor and clear of the carpet as well. If memory serves me right, I made 1" spacers for the rear of the sliders and then made two longer spacers (can't remember how much longer. Just what felt right to me.) for the mounting holes for the front of the sliders. For me it felt more comfortable if the seat was tilted higher in the front.

[Redstang69]

Dropped the body back on Saturday so I could do some measuring for the rear wheel backspacing. Had to open up the passenger side side pipe opening to the front about 3/8-1/2". Notched for the side pipes mounts as well so the body would sit down as it should.
Made a simple jig from some scrap aluminum to test the backspace. Going to end up with 4.25" backspace on the rear.

[NTX-CLANK]

Way to GO!  Exciting times.  Engine bay looks great!

Jim

[Redstang69]

Thanks Jim, I am pleased with how the engine compartment came out.
I forgot that I "customized" the glove box to fit with the heater box the other night too. I ended up utilizing the two screws for the heater box as a mount and two dash mounting bolts for mounts as well. I need to add one more from the bottom of the box to the 2x2 frame member for some bottom support.

[Redstang69]

Progress has been pretty slow for me. I did get the park lights and trail lights mounted. I had to do a little trimming but not much. For future reference the trail light requires M5 nuts which were not supplied with my lights.
I fabricated a small shield/ reflector and mounted it to one of the trail lights. Once I get them wired up I'll take some pics to see if it helps any.
I also mounted the LeMans cap and put the filter neck pieces together. Was a little nervous to drill the cap but it worked out fine and drilled easy.
Does anyone make a gasket to go between the LeMans base and the body or do you guys just put some silicon.
As thick as the body and tubs are in places I can't believe how thin it was at the tail lights.

[FFR428]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/374776819577?chn=ps

^^^^ for starters. All types of gas cap gaskets out there.

[Paul Proefrock]

We offer the gasket with period-correct screws and locknuts
https://prdcrrct.com/product/shelby-cobra-fuel-filler-gasket/

[Redstang69]

Paul, those hex head bolts work with the hurricane supplied cap? I see the description says they're thin aircraft ones. I've got hex head ones in now but the flip top won't screw onto the base all the way, it bottoms out on the hex heads. Looks like I need 1/4 turn more for it to be tight.

[Paul Proefrock]

Ben
Ours are .125 head height - what height are the ones you used?

If you used #10 screws, the height heights vary between .125" and .218" - .093" difference. If you used 1/4" screws, the height varies between .156" and .328"

I'd say put a micrometer on the head height to determine the next step.

Another issue is the placing of the screws in relation to the hinge, regardless of the size. The need to be placed in positions that will allow the hinge to clear the head when it rotates. If you've already drilled the base, you may have committed yourself to using countersunk screws. It will take a little deeper analysis to find the correct solution.

This is a picture of them on my car, with the same cap supplied by Hurricane.

Paul

[Redstang69]

Thanks for the info Paul. My bolts were .156" head. I already had my holes drilled and bolts ordered when you posted that you offered that. The .125" head bolts prob would have worked but it still looked really iffy.
I ended up going the countersink route.
Finally got it out over the weekend too get a little sun and wash the dust off. I have a somewhat large front yard (compared to those who live in subdivisions), but do not live on a quiet neighborhood street so I just went back and forth in the yard multiple times trying the clutch and brakes and a few gears. Everything seemed to work well. Reverse is fast it seems like, clutch let's out soon but it's nice and light, steering is harder than I thought it'd be. Started mounting the headlights. Talking with Greg it sounds like I have a different trim ring than him and some others. The bolts supplied with the wipac bucket aren't long enough to go through the fiberglass and catch the clip so something different will need done there.
I also paid my Ohio fee to get the number you need to apply for registration so I can start that process and I ordered my wheels today 17x11 x 4.25" backspace on the rear and 17 x 8 x 4" backspace on the front. I wanted my rears to be out a little more than the coyote build is.
Put the passenger seat in also. The sliders are pretty much worthless as Kamal already pointed out. Not sure if it's due to the seat belt mounting or what.