HM-2037 Build Thread

[Redstang69]

This is how things are oriented after rotating the arm.
The mounting bolt is like a carriage bolt where it has the 4 flats, so you've only got 4 choices for rotation.
If your tank mounting holes get drilled differently then this is all irrelevant. The holes are spaced so it'll only mount one way.

[Paul Proefrock]

Not sure if you have an angled bottom tank or not, but check that your unit can rotate the full amount. On my first car, I turned the arm about 30degrees so it would clear the baffling, but ended up not getting a good measure for how much fuel was really in the tank. The float bottomed out on the bottom of the tapered part, not the flat part. Ended up having to modify the float to get it to measure accurately.

Also be aware, the cork seal they supply is a known leak point. There's just enough pressure from the fuel head when you fill up that it leaks around the gasket. Found that MotoSeal is the only sealant that will not breakdown with exposure to gasoline. FYI

[Redstang69]

Paul, thanks for the info, I'll check it again and be sure to add some additional gasket sealer.

I didn't get a lot done this weekend but it was successful. I got the E Brake stuff checked off the list. It was a fairly simple task. I didn't do the mod. Couple things to note, for me the 5/16" bolts supplied to mount the handle were too short. Second, with the proper clevis installed it just slightly rubs on the frame. I'll prob. Shave down the clevis slightly so there's no rubbing.
Other than that it was a straight forward install.

[Redstang69]

One more pic.

Also, I trimmed a tiny piece of my trunk tub because it was hitting on my filler neck. That let the trunk tub come down a little and I'm pretty sure it's now hitting say the very back corners so I'm going to shim my tank down the thickness of a 1/4" or 5/16" nut depending on which size bolt I use.

[Redstang69]

Kind of a big day for me. I finally picked up the motor. Now don't get too excited, it's not a big dollar, shop built motor. It's from an 85 E-250 van. Don't worry, a little clean up and paint and hopefully it'll look good.
This was one area that I figured I could shave some cost on the build. Still undecided on how deep I'll go on a rebuild, full gasket kit at a minimum and prob an Edelbrock intake. Still has the factory 4 barrel carb stamped " made by Holley for Ford motor raft".

[Bruce N]

Ben did you get my reply to your message? I sent two reply's but when I go to sent messages it does not show them

[Redstang69]

Bruce, yes I got them, thanks for the replies and help.
Haven't done a whole lot exciting on my build so far. Got templates cut for my firewall panels, cut my heat shield as well.
Engine is all torn down and at a shop getting ran through the cleaner tank. Waiting to see if they say it needs bored or not. They'll put new cam bearings in while they have it.

[Redstang69]

Decided to throw my upper frame, or whatever it's called, back on and for up all my steering stuff. It went decent, the manual is pretty much useless for this part. In reference to the bearing mounting plate that goes on the foot box, I opted to put the bearing on the inside. If you decide to put it on the outside you'll have to enlarge the hole in the bracket. The downfall to putting it on the inside is that you have to trim a corner off the bearing retainer plates so it'll clear the foot box. Mounting is not final, I'm waiting to get my footbox aluminum done.
Does anyone have a closeup picture of their steering at the dash like mine below? I'm trying to determine if the turn signal mounts here and will cover the part of the bushing/mount showing in my picture.
I think I'll need to trim the dash lip to clear the bolts for the bushing mount.
Cylinders were pretty worn so the shop is boring it now.

[Redstang69]

Steering wheel area in question

[Bob Worley]

I had to do a lot of trimming to the rings, and the fiberglass to get it to fit.      And yes, you are correct that gap is where the turn signal switch goes.

[Redstang69]

Perfect pictures, thanks Bob. Looks like your bearing retainer holes are rotated slightly compared to mine. Your upper bolt/nut is very close to the throttle tube. I have more clearance there but it puts my other bolt into the side of the footbox wall.
Guess I need to pull my turn signal mechanism out tonight and test fit it up.

[Bob Worley]

Perfect pictures, thanks Bob. Looks like your bearing retainer holes are rotated slightly compared to mine. Your upper bolt/nut is very close to the throttle tube. I have more clearance there but it puts my other bolt into the side of the footbox wall.
Guess I need to pull my turn signal mechanism out tonight and test fit it up.

Yeah, maybe Hurricane modified the throttle box after my kit to accommodate that bolt close to the tube.  I also shorted the tube after that pic to get the throttle pedal more inboard: my brake/cutch are really close together.

On the turn signal, its held in place by a really cheesy pressure fit, just tightening the small strew to press against the steering boss.  eventually they loosen up allowing the signal switch to swing around, and have to be retightened.    I removed the screw, drilled it out so a #10 fine screw slides through, then tapped the brass steering boss for #10 fine thread.  used a stainless steel bolt that threads all the way into the boss, there is no way that thing is going to rotate on the boss now.  you can kind of see the Allen head SS bolt in my pic.

[Bob Worley]

Here is one my posts about another modification that helps the turn signal switch fit better.  You can see that crummy saddle thats supposed to hold it in place.    Thanks to Paul Proefrock:

https://forum.hurricane-motorsports.com/forum/index.php?topic=2352.msg25030#msg25030

[Redstang69]

Thanks so much Bob, I'll have to get a piece aluminum.

[Bruce N]

Hey Ben. I just responded to your message but for some reason nothing shows up on sent messages (still). So just let me know if you didn't get it.