Author Topic: HM2017 Build  (Read 49328 times)

Jeff K

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Re: HM2017 Build
« Reply #150 on: July 15, 2023, 03:56:39 PM »
Today I installed heat barrier and the aluminum on the firewall.  That took some work.  The heat barrier is adhesive backed Thermo-Tec brand I bought on Amazon.  For the aluminum, I sanded it to remove scratches and sprayed it with Sharkhide metal protectant.  Hopefully the finish holds up.

A couple of the bolts for the throttle pedal corner bracket interfere with each other and one interferes with the throttle pedal.  To get around this, I countersunk the front holes and installed flat head bolts from the inside.  That should fix the interference.

I was hoping to permanently install the cockpit tub this weekend but I discovered a small brake fluid leak towards the rear and it will be easier to troubleshoot from above than from below.  Getting close though.

Redstang69

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Re: HM2017 Build
« Reply #151 on: July 16, 2023, 08:04:22 PM »
Nice idea on the flat head bolts to address that issue. The aluminum looks nice. I've used the shark Hyde on all my aluminum and really like it. So easy to apply, dries really fast and gives a nice even shine.
I did drip some gas on a piece and if you look in the light the right way you can see where it lifted the finish, but it's tough to tell.
If you're going to hear shield the inside of your footbox you might want to do that while it's off too. Also, check your throttle pedal in the bracket. Some of us have had to radius the top of the flat bar because it rubs on the footbox. Great progress.

Jeff K

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Re: HM2017 Build
« Reply #152 on: July 16, 2023, 08:51:03 PM »
Thanks.  I’ve already radiused the throttle pedal.  I was planning on installing Kilmat sound deadening mat inside the cockpit tub.  You’re right, I should install it when the tub is easily accessible.

Jeff K

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Re: HM2017 Build
« Reply #153 on: July 24, 2023, 07:09:22 PM »
I mentioned before that I was having brake fluid leaks at the front caliper hose fittings.  It turns out that my calipers should have had 1/8” NPT threads instead of the 3/8-24 threads it had according to the spec sheet.  I talked with Wilwood tech support and they said the caliper never came with a thread for a banjo bolt which makes sense but doesn’t explain why mine did.  I wasn’t able to get the banjo bolt to stop leaking so I retapped the hole for 1/8” NPT.  That solved the leaking problem.

I decided to go with an Optima battery.  I installed it using some brackets I bought from optimatrays.com.

Also got the fuel tank vent installed.

Getting close to permanently installing the cockpit tub.

Jeff K

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Re: HM2017 Build
« Reply #154 on: August 01, 2023, 07:49:26 PM »
I finally installed the trunk liner and cockpit tub for the last time.  I used 10-32 screws to secure them to the frame.  I figured with screws I could remove the pieces if I ever needed to plus I liked that I could control the clamping force with the screws.  The front horizontal panel of the trunk liner also got screwed to the cockpit tub which created a strong shelf for the battery.

I installed Kilmat sound deadener to the firewall area of the cockpit tub before installing the upper frame.  This stuff should cut down a little on the sound and heat getting into the cockpit.  It takes some effort to press the Kilmat onto the surface so I’ll do more later when I have the energy.

Redstang69

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Re: HM2017 Build
« Reply #155 on: August 02, 2023, 07:39:30 PM »
Things will start moving pretty quickly now.
Could you post some measurements of where you put the holes for the dash support tubes?

Jeff K

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Re: HM2017 Build
« Reply #156 on: August 02, 2023, 09:21:22 PM »
Ben, I’ll take some measurements and pictures tomorrow.

Jeff K

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Re: HM2017 Build
« Reply #157 on: August 03, 2023, 06:08:35 PM »
Here's the dimensions for the holes in the tunnel for the support tubes.  Hopefully you can make sense of them.  I tried to make the support tubes mimic the originals the best I could.

Jeff K

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Re: HM2017 Build
« Reply #158 on: August 03, 2023, 06:10:50 PM »
Let me try that again.

Paul Proefrock

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Re: HM2017 Build
« Reply #159 on: August 03, 2023, 07:04:42 PM »
Word to the wise, make the crossbar two pieces with a nut welded onto one of them, putting the bolt up thru the flat bar that forms the cowl support so you can put the bolt in from the bottom, capture one of the tube bars then into the bar with the nut welded on the upper edge. (Clear as mud?)

There are times you need to remove the crosstubes and with them bolted in as a whole piece, you can't get them out.

Please don't ask how I know this

I ran some wiring thru one of the tubes and put the speedometer cable thru the other. Depending on the size of the tubing you used, you may have to separate the head of the speedo cable to get it thru the tube.

Paul
https://65shlb.com   Documentation of a period correct build
https://prdcrrct.com  Affordable period correct components

Redstang69

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Re: HM2017 Build
« Reply #160 on: August 03, 2023, 07:50:45 PM »
Thanks for measurements Jeff, I should be able to work with it. Could you add how far apart the tubes are at the top where they bolt to the dash?
Paul, good advice, I remember reading about this in another place. I thought of running some things down through the tubes but like you said you have to take the speedo cable apart or use a big tube and it didn't really gain me anything for the neutral safety so I just took it out the firewall. It was difficult to drill with the engine and trans in and upper frame in.

Jeff K

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Re: HM2017 Build
« Reply #161 on: August 03, 2023, 09:23:45 PM »
Ben, the center to center distance of the tubes at the top is 5”.

Jeff K

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Re: HM2017 Build
« Reply #162 on: August 11, 2023, 10:52:51 PM »
It has been quiet on the forum lately.  I’ve been installing the wiring harness in my car for the last week.  There’s a lot of wires for a simple car.  The EFI adds another harness and another layer of complexity.  I was able to route all the wires and harnesses through one hole in the transmission tunnel at the back of the engine.  I spent some time trying to hide the EFI wires on the engine.  I don’t think it’ll look too cluttered when I get done.  Slowly making progress.

Redstang69

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Re: HM2017 Build
« Reply #163 on: August 14, 2023, 08:34:29 PM »
Looking nice Jeff. Very clean job. If you have questions on the wiring let me know.

Jeff K

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Re: HM2017 Build
« Reply #164 on: September 04, 2023, 04:35:15 PM »
I’m finally done with the initial wiring less a couple items.  I’m pretty confident I got it right but I haven’t hooked up the battery yet.  I’ll save that for later.  When I started the wiring I envisioned the wires being neat and tidy behind the dash.  Far from it.  There’s a lot of wire back there.  I’m glad I made the dash removable because trying to do any troubleshooting later from under the dash would be impossible.  I followed the example of some others and put a couple small welds between the upper frame and frame.  This will ensure good grounding between the two.  I got the spark plug wires fabricated and installed.  The EFI needs an O2 sensor so I got that installed also.  I also added a USB port under the dash.  Might need that someday.  After I get back from vacation I can move on to the radiator and the remaining items required to get it running.  Getting closer.