HM-2032 - Texas Storm Chaser

[Greg K]

Jim,
Pad gap can be resolved with the proper spacer, several styles out there. I used one that is shaped like the pad backplate for my gap of .190". If you have more you can get a .25" that is round and slips into the piston. Just google "metric caliper pad spacer".

[Bob Worley]

Was great to finally meet you, Jim.

[NTX-CLANK]

This was a good week!  My wife, Debbie and I installed the engine and transmission onto the frame.  It JUST made it with the transmission mount bolts at the extreme end of their X-frame slots.  I found a local driveshaft guru who will be able to complete my 14” center-to-center driveshaft this week.

I went ahead and installed the intake manifold, water pump, alternator brackets and distributor.  I made a decent first pass at wire routing with the headers in place.   I want to crank this thing up since it has never run…., but better slow my roll.

Worked out a plan for stainless flex fuel tubing and AN fittings.  Purchased component fittings and hard tube adapters so now, once I find good homes for each component, I can order simple straight connector tube assemblies or make my own.

I spent some time fabricating slave setup using a Miata 3/4” slave cylinder mounted to an angle bracket (based off of LMR design).  Went ahead and plumbed the line and tested.  Need to fabricate a stiffer bracket or just break down and buy the LMR $etup.  I really want this dialed in before I mount the tub. 

Performed a tub test fit and had to modify the shifter hole a bit.  Afterward, it looks pretty good relative to the frame.  I will also need to slot e-brake slot forward a bit.  Sounds like I should take Paul F’s advise and hold off on rivets and glue.

Installed the fuel sending unit.  Had to re-arrange a file a bit on the sender brackets to get it to fit and clock properly between the tank internal baffles.

Began looking at wiring and gages.  My T5 is from a 94-95 Mustang and it has an electronic sensor with 12-cog reluctor.  This will not work with the mechanical speedometer, so I am hunting for a good alternative.  I would rather not crack open the transmission.  Autometer makes an electronic Cobra style 4”, so I may go that route.  Calibration sounds like a breeze.  Any comments on this plan would be appreciated.

It’s time to decide on header and side pipe finishing.   I am thinking of wrapping my headers to help keep the heat down in the footbox area.  I probably need some further guidance on this issue.

Have 2 front wheels on the way now.  The 2 rear wheels are on backorder still and show 3 weeks out.  Oh well, I will find something to do while I wait.....

[NTX-CLANK]

It was kind of exciting this week to get my wheels.  I decided to ditch the backordered 10" wide wheels and went with 8" wide all around.  Had the tires mounted at Firestone after I reviewed their methods for protecting the aluminum wheels.  They did a great job!  Chassis is now looking more like a car now.

While picking the wheels up, I received a call from the driveshaft supplier and went and picked that up.  Looks great, but will probably need to adjust the pitch angle slightly after I set the chassis on the wheels.  I understand that some transmission mounts are lower profile and can help to straighten out the driveline.

Fabricated and painted the final version of the clutch slave bracket that is very stiff. 

Decided on braided nylon fuel hose and made up some lines for Tank to Filter, Filter to Pump and pump to Hard Line.  Fuel filter shown temporarily mounted waiting on me to fabricate a new bracket.  I need some more fitting$ to complete front lines.

Completed engine carburetor mounting and vacuum plumbing.  Also installed thermostat and bypass heater hose.  Transaxle transmission were filled with fluids.  Still need to test all brake lines and fittings.

Reviewed steering assembly and throttle linkage techniques.  Had to review forum posts in order to figure it out.  The throttle pedal mounts using a corner brace that doubles as a steering shaft bearing support brace, so no need to measure for the bearing clearance hole - just use the corner brace as a guide.  I could not put one bolt into the brace.  Three bolts are enough.

I did not purchase the aluminum wrap for front of footbox / firewall, so I will start sanding and filling the fiberglass in preparation for painting.  I plan to fill the tub / chassis voids similar to  Bruce N's methods as best I can.

That's it for now.  I think I will try to set the chassis down on the wheels to take a look at the alignments.  I also bought some adhesive to bond my dash covering, so I can start that project this weekend after I do some much-needed yard work.

Jim

[dawger]

Jim, an alternative to your speedometer issue, take a look at Speed Hut. They are the same ones I believe Hurricane uses on their factory car. They might be able to help you with your issue of connectivity.

Michael-
HM-2013

[NTX-CLANK]

Michael,
  Thank you for the tip.  I splurged a bit and ordered the SpeedHut GPS speedometer.  This will solve my T5 interface issue and provide upgraded accuracy and data.

[NTX-CLANK]

Not a lot to report this past week, but I picked up some new "skills" related to fiberglass and painting.  Similar to what Bruce did, I fiberglassed in some sealing flanges and painted the exterior footbox area of the Cockpit.  I decided to practice the Sand - Bondo - Prime - Base Coat - Clear Coat spray methods and I think that it turned out pretty well for a newbie.  I just need to mount some reflective panels near where the headers will be and then, I can mount the tub.

I cut and bonded the vinyl to the dash panel and mounted all of the gauges except for the speedometer.  New GPS speedo has a 3 week lead time.

Debbie helped me bleed the brakes and check out all the brake line fittings (no leaks!)

Jim

[NTX-CLANK]

Just a few updates to report this past week.

I cut a hole in trunk tub for sender clearance and access.

I riveted the aluminum panel forward of the dash and cut and stuck the wrinkly reflective sheet that was supplied with the kit. Looks better than I thought and maybe the refractive properties of the wrinkles will help? Nahhh.

I painted the headers and sidepipes with VHT flat black and am ready to wrap the headers. Alec said the header/side pipe flange gaskets were due in, so he will send that to me.

I added edge trim on front fender well panels.

I ordered and received HW for footbox ventilation.

Attempted to fit up radiator and learned that my radiator was delivered without mounting channels attached. Alec is sending me some adapter brackets.

Mounted steering shafts and pillow blocks for real.

I won’t get anything done for about 2 weeks while I am in Louisiana working disaster relief.

[FFR428]

Very nice. Like the headers!

[NTX-CLANK]

Not a lot to report, but at least I will document the following lack of progress this week:

Headers:
  I completed the header wrap and painting.  I like how they turned out and hope they help keep the footbox area cooler.  Looking forward to being able to heat cure the VHT ceramic paint very soon.

Radiator/Fan:
  Received radiator adapto-brackets and fan mounting brackets from HMC today and will install radiator and fan tomorrow.

Dash:
  Received the SpeedHut GPS speedometer and installed into the dash.   I need some guidance on what the DPDT switch is for (see pic)….Update 9/19: I looked more closely at the manual.  Switch must be for high/low beam.

Footbox Vents:
  Gathering up the nerve to cut the 3" holes into my nice, new paint job......

Next report should include more about the above and the first fit-up of the body.

[FFR428]

Header wrap is a good idea. I need to do the same. Everything looks great. Nice job.

[NTX-CLANK]

I HAVE made some progress over the last 2 mo  I spent over 4 weeks working TBM disaster relief (chainsaw team) in LA after hurricane IDA.

Radiator:  Mounted radiator and fan using adapt-brackets and installed radiator hoses and filled system with coolant.

Wiring:  Installed the Haywire harness and wired up the instruments, ignition and sensors.  I am also adding circuits for fuel pump, heated seats, footbox vents.  I purchased an additional 6-gang fuse box and a 5-gang rocker switch panel that I plan to mount in a custom center console.  I pulled a real dumb, rookie stunt and wired the "Main Ground" to the Starter Stator windings instead of the engine block. When I tested the Starter circuit, the bulkhead connection for the "Main Ground" got hot enough to melt the bulkhead at that connection.  Darren at Haywire helped me diagnose the issue and offered to rapidly replace the damaged bulkheads for me.  That is some awesome customer service!!  I will have to remove each harness connector and replace into the new harness bulkhead connector, but Darren offered to talk me through the process.  Of course, I corrected the ground wiring.....now I wait...


First Start Attempt:  Even though I am on hold for the wiring harness, I could not wait any longer to fire the engine up for the first time.  I used my remote starter switch to spin up the oil pressure, readied the fire extinguisher, added a jumper wire from the battery to the coil.  I was happy when it started right up and ran smoothly!!!

Startup Video:
https://youtu.be/MCbJgA5ornw


Plans for this week include mounting and filling the brake and clutch reservoirs and bleeding the systems so I can get this thing off of the jack stands and outside for additional engine tuning and exhaust paint curing.

[NTX-CLANK]

It’s past time for an update.

Wiring:  Received my repaired Haywire fuse/relay box and reinstalled. I finished up dash wiring for light dimmer and ventilation fans and wipers. I am still planning on adding a center console and mounting of a panel of switches, USB port, power port and volt meter.

Brakes/Clutch:  Installed brake and clutch reservoirs, but now have to move them down to clear the body. I think I will make a bracket to mount them all and relocate as a unit. Bleeding of brakes went well, but am having trouble with the clutch.  This prevented me from go-cart testing before body fit-up.

Steering:  The steering double-D shaft was too short and interferes with the DS header and will not allow steering wheel engagement.  Hurricane is sending me a new, longer shaft, but in the mean time, I moved the set screw drilled spots out about 3/4" total for a TEMPORARY fix only as I am still waiting for the new shaft.

Wipers:  I mounted the motor and roughly configured guide tubes prior to body fit-up.

Body fit- up:  Gave thanks on Thanksgiving for the extra muscle to help set the body in place!  This went very smoothly and all seems to line up very well. Doors will be a bit of a challenge as per others’ experience. Door latch faces down (see pic).  This is counter-intuitive, but works just fine ergonomically and fits the door molding better.  The hood and trunk lid should align and trim well. Holes for roll bars took me an entire day, but worked out a great method to mark the hole positions using a laser and PVC to “bore sight” bar axes. The PS rear bar interferes with the trunk pan and I can not seem to shift the pan over.  I machined holes in the body and the gas cap for mounting.  (I think I will use flat head 1/4-20 screws to mount the cap base instead of the round-head screws mentioned in the manual).  Windshield was set in place in order to place holes for wipers.  Went with the 2" forward of the bottom chrome and 20" spacing centered on the body.

The body is now off again and on the buck waiting for clean-up and trimming.  May try to do some of that while the weather is nice this week.  Lots to do on the chassis still.....

[Bob Worley]

Looks great, Jim!

[NTX-CLANK]

Thanks, Bobby.

I am making some progress. I was able to bleed my clutch and check timing so I could go-cart it a bit.

https://youtu.be/KNiqczji1TE

https://youtu.be/jcmlrhkQs8I

The clutch needs more travel, so I have ordered a new master cylinder and I have some small brake fluid leaks that I will take care of when I get my new switch T-fittings. I installed the radiator overflow tank and cut additional trunk tub clearance around fuel tank fill neck. Now, roll bar rear segments clear the tub.