HM-2030 Build Log - The Storm Ahead

[Redstang69]

That doesn't look like it was much fun getting those on. Seems pretty common with headers though. I will say, those tubes look nice and large. That engine should be able to breathe really well.

[Greg K]

Even though they posed some challenges for me, clearance to foot boxes will be good and I'm satisfied overall with how they turned out and with my progress.

So after talking to Alec, if you know what heads you will have at time of order, let them know what bolt spacing you have for the flanges, I did not know at the time what heads I would end up with. They can also do 3" spacing if you have dual bolt patterns. Had I known I may have held off and got the 3" spacing which would have avoided some issues and made it easier.

[Bob Worley]

Even though they posed some challenges for me, clearance to foot boxes will be good and I'm satisfied overall with how they turned out and with my progress.

So after talking to Alec, if you know what heads you will have at time order, let them know what bolt spacing you have for the flanges, I did not know at the time. They can also do 3" spacing if you have dual bolt patterns. Had I known I may have held off and got the 3" spacing which would have avoided some issues and made it easier.

Check out my post on how I made my own header flanges for the 3" spacing.   

https://forum.hurricane-motorsports.com/forum/index.php?topic=2352.msg24474#msg24474

I also used Stage 8 bolts, forget the length.  I had to try a few times to get it right, with the thicker 3/8" flange.

[Greg K]

Bob, I saw your post about flanges before. At the time of order and even after I received my kit, I did not have my motor or know what heads I may end up with. We can't remember or not if Alec asked me before welding them up.
Would it have saved me some aggravation had we gone with 3" spaced flanges had I known, absolutely, but they are on now and going to live with them for a long time. I used ARP bolts, 3/8-16, 1" in length with 5/16 12-point head.

[Greg K]

Not much to show today, trimmed the firewall metal and fastened with rivets.

[Greg K]

Progress has been a little slow lately, but got the cockpit back in place with the upper frame section. Came up with a removable cover for the fuel sender and added some thru-feed power posts to the front dash.

[FFR428]

Funny how that "fuel sender" cover worked out! Great idea.

[Greg K]

Put a few hours in mocking up the steering shafts today. The upper splined shaft gave me a little trouble in the upper dash support with the bronze bushings. Had to hone the bushings and align them for the shaft to pass, then the mid bearing was pretty tight on the shaft too, but managed to get it to pass.

Pic below is gap to brake line before I finished mocking the upper section up, once I did, the gap ended up less than an 1/8 inch. A little too close for my comfort level, so I will be adding another brake adapter tab lowering it about an inch and making up a new brake line. Rubber boot pulled back to see a little more.

[Greg K]

Moving on...fastened a new brake line tab to lower the brake line going to the front left caliper., the welded tab placed the line too close to the steering shaft than I was comfortable with (see previous post). A few pics of the steering mocked up, new brake line and also mounted a battery disconnect to back wall of cockpit.

[Redstang69]

Great reference pics of the steering shafts, thanks Greg.

[Bruce N]

Moving on...fastened a new brake line tab to lower the brake line going to the front left caliper., the welded tab placed the line too close to the steering shaft than I was comfortable with (see previous post). A few pics of the steering mocked up, new brake line and also mounted a battery disconnect to back wall of cockpit.

Looks nice Greg. Question. What are you planning to do on the shafts for corrosion control? They are steel, so of course eventually will start rusting. I have noticed that most are just leaving as is, but if you look at some older pictures you can see the corrosion starting. wish they supplied SS I painted mine with epoxy primer and coat of urethane semi gloss black, but had to file it all off where the joints go together. Think eventually I'll just upgrade to stainless.

[Greg K]

Thanks, U-joints and shafts are steel, originally I was going to use black cosmoline on them, but it starts to melt at 115-125 degrees.
I'll probably do what I've been doing to other parts is coating it with black rust-oleum hammered paint after final assembly.
The telescopic shaft is only available in steel, if you want a stainless shaft, would have to get a longer 3/4 double d shaft, cut it and drill it. To replace all components, probably looking at another $600 to do it.

Looks nice Greg. Question. What are you planning to do on the shafts for corrosion control? They are steel, so of course eventually will start rusting. I have noticed that most are just leaving as is, but if you look at some older pictures you can see the corrosion starting. wish they supplied SS I painted mine with epoxy primer and coat of urethane semi gloss black, but had to file it all off where the joints go together. Think eventually I'll just upgrade to stainless.

[Bruce N]

Thanks, U-joints and shafts are steel, originally I was going to use black cosmoline on them, but it starts to melt at 115-125 degrees.
I'll probably do what I've been doing to other parts is coating it with black rust-oleum hammered paint after final assembly.
The telescopic shaft is only available in steel, if you want a stainless shaft, would have to get a longer 3/4 double d shaft, cut it and drill it. To replace all components, probably looking at another $600 to do it.

Looks nice Greg. Question. What are you planning to do on the shafts for corrosion control? They are steel, so of course eventually will start rusting. I have noticed that most are just leaving as is, but if you look at some older pictures you can see the corrosion starting. wish they supplied SS I painted mine with epoxy primer and coat of urethane semi gloss black, but had to file it all off where the joints go together. Think eventually I'll just upgrade to stainless.

I looked at flaming River. Can get the two joints plus DD shaft that I would need for just under $300.00.  That's from the firewall forward. I don't see need to go stainless under the dash and I have those painted. That's mill finished SS. Not polished.

[s_reynolds]

FWIW, I painted the exposed steering shaft from the fire wall forward.

[NTX-CLANK]

Looking very nice, Greg.

Did you or do you plan to weld that brake line tab or create a screw-on bracket?  Mine has that same issue. Hope Hurricane is fixing this issue for any future builders!

Jim