HM2008 Build

[Bob Worley]

Guess what arrived in Texas today.   Here ya go, Paul ~ it happened

[s_reynolds]

Is it unpacked yet?

[Russ Crouch]

Bob,
I'm feel'n the excitement in your post. It is good to hear that you are now progresting to the next stage.

Keep the posts and pictures coming.

Russ C

[Russ Rittimann]

Should be nothing holding you back now.  Congrats!!!

-- Russ

[Bob Worley]

Made a milestone last week:  finally riveted down the cockpit and trunk tubs, and sealed the gaps with aluminum trim.     

   

   

Tomorrow i'll apply seam sealer around the footboxes, then this weekend begin applying heat barrier on the engine side of the footboxes and firewall.

Engine/Trans final installation will soon follow!   Things are starting to come together again...

[Russ Rittimann]

Really nice sheetmetal work.  Keep up the progress.

Russ

[Russ Crouch]

I agree with Russ. Your sheetmetal work looks great. The project is really coming together now. Please continue posting as you progress.
Russ C

[Bob Worley]

Yesterday I completed the installation of the radiant heat barrier and aluminum on the firewall and foot boxes.  Now I've reached the point where I can install the engine and trans (hopefully) for the final time, and really start making progress...

[s_reynolds]

Looks good. Looks like the sheet metal is easier to install on the Gen II cars vrs. the Gen I cars.

Sam

[Fuzzy]

Looking really slick Bob. Keep the photos coming.

[Bob Worley]

Its been a while since I've updated - and I've been busy the past few months:



I received the rest of my clutch parts.  My dad came over and we assembled the hydraulic TOB, then mated the trans to the engine and installed the drivetrain for the (hopefully!) LAST time.   Everything is torqued down tight.

   



I finished fabricating the raised false floor, lengthened period-correct clutch and brake pedals, shorted throttle pedal, and the aluminum cover.  The false floor and all pedals are all powdercoated.





I purchased the period-correct FE style expansion tank, which arrived un-assembled.  Since this tank is originally for an FE not a windsor small block, I shortened the mounting bracket as much as possible so it will clear the hood.  I then took it to a local radiator shop where they soldered it up and pressure-tested for leaks.

   

Next I fabricated a period-correct remote oil filter mounting bracket, which attaches to the remote filter to the water pump:





(After I test-fit all hoses, oil lines, steering column, and verify the expansion tank will clear the hood I will take the tank and the oil filter bracket for powdercoating black.)



Then this past weekend I finished installing heat/sound barrier on the firewall and foot boxes.  Next I welded on grounding bolts, and brackets for the ignition box onto the upper frame/dash support, then installed the dash support for the final time, putting a weld bead on each side where the frame bolts to the foot box for absolute grounding continuity to the frame.

   

[Russ Rittimann]

Looking really good Bobby.

Are you planning to bring your car to TCC?  I know you were hoping to have it running without paint by then but maybe next year.

[Bob Worley]

Looking really good Bobby.

Are you planning to bring your car to TCC?  I know you were hoping to have it running without paint by then but maybe next year.

I'm not going to bring it this year.  Next year will be my year.

[Bob Worley]

Guys, if you haven't done this yet, you need to!   I found this on Paul Profrock's build page here: http://65shlb.com/steering-column-install-mods/

and it fixes the sloppy fit of the turn signal switch on the steering column boss.   I just made this tonight, took me about 10 minutes and it really works.    I took a piece of .040 aluminum scrap, cut it to 5/8" x 4"  (0.625" x 4.0"), then bent it around a 30mm socket in the vice, slid it inside the turn lever housing.   

Now the switch fits very snuggly and flush on the steering boss, and parallel with the steering wheel. 

Now i'm thinking about getting rid of the metal "saddle" that the screw presses against the steering boss, drilling and tapping a hole into the boss and threading in a longer screw. Then it's guaranteed not to loosen or move. 

     

[Russ Crouch]

Bob,
Yep! Another good idea from Paul. As you are cosidering, I marked the boss where the set screw would be when the turn signal handle is located where I wanted it and then took the foot off the set screw. With the turn signal switch removed, I drilled a dimple for the set screw to contact the boss where I had previously marked the desired location. The turm signal is very rigid now and does not move about the steering wheel boss as before.
Russ C