Build Pics of HM1017

[Fuzzy]

The filled in welds almost look cast, really incredible work, you must be a man of patience.   Its going to awesome when finished.   I was curious as to why you used a base clear?  Also what was the additive you used when you said you used a flex additive?  New one for me.  I've got a grey surfacer on my car now, maybe this is something I should look into, seems really worthwhile for cars that get driven a lot.
If the standard of finish for the frame and motor is so high, maybe some one should look into getting Hurricane to make a clear, see-through body.  Can you imgaine one of those at the next cruise night or a car show or dealers stand?  would be like the RC bodies you get and paint the inside.

[dwright]

Thanks for the replies.  The flex additive I mentioned[Fuzzy] is normally used for the plastic bumpers or a painted surface that has alot of flex to it.  The reason a person would not want to paint a whole car using  the flex is that it would be to hard to fix imperfection...  [runs dirt ect.] because the paint would be to rubbery to sand or buff.  Note: I used the flex additive in the sealer and clear.  The flex will mess with the base causing seperation of colors/metal flake.  The reason I used a base clear is that I plan on using the same color [charcoal]  for the stripes on the exterior and had it mixed already.  If  you change to a single stage paint it can change the color. [school of hard knocks]  By the way I am going with a black cherry from a LEXAS for the main color.   Thanks again. Darren

[dwright]

Just thought I would post a few progress photos.  Since my last post I have been working on the firewall.  Trying to get is polished up.  Instead of using pop rivets I decided to use solid rivets for a clean look.  NO lies once you start to polish no going back.  Many hours into polishing.  Enjoy.   Darren

[dwright]

View of the solid rivets.  Darren

[dwright]

One straight on.  Darren

[dwright]

Last one for now.  Darren

[LMH]

Nice work Darren!
Nice job on the master cylinder trim piece too.
Larry

[66rdster]

Its coming along nicely Darren. Your doing a great job. Keep it up. I can't wait for the next update.




Mike

[Ryan Cassidy]

Looks Great Darren.  That polishing was more time consuming than I expected too :-)

Cheers,

[berzerko]

just a tip about polishing  I've found using a high speed car buffer (milwalkee, makita etc) with a compounding wheel  and dress it with gray rouge  
and let it rip you will be amazed how fast you bring up a mirror finish

the key though is knowing to what grit to sand to first if the aluminum is in good shape ( no deep cuts) start at 220 work to 400  maybe six and polish
using the wheel the polishing becomes the easy part so if you still see scratches you dont like you can sand finer or go back over it

just be prepared once the rouge heats up it slings everywhere

oh and your polishing job looks dam good especially if you did it by hand

[dwright]

Thanks for the replies.  I have been using numerous different buffing wheels.  I started out using 400 grit  wet sand paper to knock down the grain then 600 grit.  Still trying to get the mirror look but there seems to be a haze.  Started with the red tripoli compound and finished with the white. Still fighting with it.  Just a matter of trial and error.   Thanks for the Idea for the master cylinder cover plate Larry!      Darren

[LMH]

 

[YerDugliness]

One more.!

[Tom]

It's an option.  I had mine built with the lowers welded on to accept a second rollbar, but didn't order the bar itself.  I figured that if I ever did want to add it, it would be a simple install that way.

[dwright]

Since my last post I have been real busy working on the not so fun stuff of polishing and wiring.