Noisy swedge tubes...(trailing arms)

[aarvig]

Has anyone had any issues develop with clunking/creaking in the trailing arm swedge tubes?  I put about 500 miles on my car and developed a clunking/creaking/rattle noise that I isolated to what I thought were rod ends on the passenger side trailing arm.  I ordered new QA1 rod ends, installed them and the problem went away.  About 500 miles later the exact noise started up again.  If I push the car up and down I can hear and feel the nose in the trailing arm on the passenger side of the car.  I called QA1 and sent them a video of the noise and they said; "Hmmm we've never heard that before." and then proceeded to send me all new replacement rod ends as well as several other sets/styles to try (probably worth about $200 total-very good customer service.)  I haven't installed them yet as I am not convinced the rod ends are the problem.  If I have someone push the car up and down and I put my hands on the rod ends I feel nothing but hear the clunk.  If I have someone push the car up and down and I grab the swedge tube (trailing arm) I hear and feel the clunk.  I jacked the car up...put a rubber hammer to the rod ends...no noise.  Put the same advanced diagnostic tool to the swedge tube and it rattles...even with the lock nuts tightened down.  Does anyone have an explanation for this?

[Greg K]

Can't say what it is, but it sounds like changing the tube is next on your list of items to change out? Could the tube have a crack in it? How do the rod ends fit the bolts holding them in place, any play side to side? Anyone bind in rear end, I'm sure you have it squared up, just trying to think of anything it could be.

[aarvig]

I ordered new Swedge tubes from a different supplier (Speedway Motors).  When I pull the old one off I will take a peek inside and see if I can see anything.  I'll replace these tonight and let y'all know tomorrow.

[Greg K]

Aaron,

Did you end up getting the standard swedged tube or a chromoly one with welded ends?

[aarvig]

I went with the standards.  I have tried everything to get the noise to go away.  The car is at a weld shop in northern MN getting some brackets re-welded for the third link.  When they were originally welded the third link bracket on the axle was no where near parallel to the third link bracket on the frame causing a bind...which is making my noise.  Brackets are being cut, aligned and re-welded.

[Greg K]

Never even considered that would be the culprit. Was it obvious visually? Any pics of the existing condition?

[NTX-CLANK]

Aaron,
  I am sorry that you are having this frustration, but am glad to hear that I am not alone here.  My 3rd member is also making noise as well as an upper control arm in front.   Did you solve the issue?

Jim

[Kamal]

Has anyone determined the cause of the noise in the rear link swedge tubes?  Mine is particularly bad, and I also think its the 3rd link, at the top.

I'm going to replace the actual tube to see if it makes a difference.

FWIW, I can't imagine that an improperly welded bracket would cause the noise, as the amount of deflection that the Heim joints allow should account for that type of misalignment.

I'm going to PM aarvig to see his progress.

[aarvig]

The ultimate cause of the creaking was the QA1 rod end bearings.  The supplied bearing have a plastic insert in them that is not up to the loads that exist in the rear end of our cars.  They all started making noise within 10 miles and it was bad enough that I could see witness marks on the ball in the rod end.  Upgrading the rod ends in the trailing arms to FK bearing JMX10T and JMXL10T rod ends absolutely eliminated the problem.  Those bearings are three piece and have a teflon liner in them.  They are also of much more stout construction than the plastic insert QA1 stuff.  New owners...upgrade the kits with these parts!

[Kamal]

Awesome, and I got your p.m. Thank you very much for checking back in. I just ordered those rod ends and I will report back in the next week or so when I get them and install them.

[Redstang69]

Good info and thanks for posting it Aaron.

[Pete1320]

I have HM2029 and I had the same noise at about that mileage. I spun the heims so I could get grease into the heim joint. The noise is gone the joints were a little galled and locking up. Winter project, see if I can drill the heim, joints for a zirk fitting or replace them with a new heim with a zirk, Pete.

[Paul Proefrock]

Pete,
Grease is not your friend with Heim joints. The grease will retain dirt/sand which will accelerate the failure of the heim joint.

They make a special lube for the joints that is like a WD40 but has teflon in it. It lubricates but keeps the joint 'dry'

[aarvig]

I have HM2029 and I had the same noise at about that mileage. I spun the heims so I could get grease into the heim joint. The noise is gone the joints were a little galled and locking up. Winter project, see if I can drill the heim, joints for a zirk fitting or replace them with a new heim with a zirk, Pete.

Why?  This is going to cause all sorts of problems. Greasing Heims will cause the ball to really wear out as it attracts sand and dust and acts as sandpaper to that joint.  Just replace the heim's with the above part numbers and your problems will go away.  I ended up replacing all the front end heim's this summer as those developed the same noise as the rears.  The fronts are different part numbers through FK. 

[Redstang69]

I gave the TriFlow lubricant a shot and it worked. I will say that I only put about 20 miles on since using it. Season here for driving is over so I won't be able to give a more long term report until next spring/summer. Right now all suspension noise is gone. Getting the alignment right helped some also.