HM2017 Build

[Jeff K]

More pictures.

[Paul Proefrock]

Jeff,
You might want to revisit your O2 sensor installation. They recommend they be installed between 10 and 90 degrees, yours looks to be about -20 which will make it prone to early failure due to moisture accumulation. Most all manufacturers are now using the Bosch 4.9 sensor which is prone to this issue.

When the engine first starts and before it is up to temperature, it makes a fair amount of moisture/condensate. This will accumulate on an O2 sensor and cause it to crack. This is a good article on the failure:

https://www.nzefi.com/bosch-lsu-wide-band-airfuel-ratio-lambda-sensors-fail-often-aftermarket-performance-applications/

Looks like it is on the passenger side. You can put a bung tangent to the collector and angled up a few degrees which would make it a lot better. I was able to get mine to where the wire output points to the bottom of the footbox.

This is a sketch of how mine was installed - it's still in the exhaust stream yet angles up under the body. Mine system uses two sensors, the drivers side is a little more difficult because of the extra drop in the footbox:

Paul

[Jeff K]

Paul,
Thanks for your reply.  I do realize my sensor is at the wrong angle.  The side pipe came with the sensor bung already installed and I was hoping I could getaway with it as is.  I realize now I'll need to revisit the installation.  Can you post a picture of your actual sensor installation?  I'd like to see exactly how you handled the bung installation considering the angles involved.
Thanks, Jeff

[Paul Proefrock]

Jeff,
Pictures are hard to come by that actually show what's going on. The bung needs to be in the lower quadrant of the collector and ponting up. Sounds complicated but it can be done

The attached picture shows the passenger side, comng out of the collector and how the wire side almost touches the bottom of the dropbox area. The second shows a similar view except from the top

[Jeff K]

Thanks Paul.  That’s exactly what I was looking for.

[Jeff K]

I got kind of lucky changing the angle of the O2 sensor.  I was able to weld the new bung on top of the original one, after a lot of grinding.  I’ll hit it with some high temp paint eventually.  The cable is just resting against the bottom of the foot box but I may still dimple the foot box there to provide a little more room.  And of course the body will need a cutout to accommodate the sensor also.

[Greg K]

You need to give it some clearance, the pipes do move some.

[Jeff K]

I had not been looking forward to figuring out the radiator hoses, especially the lower.  The upper hose turned out to be straight forward.  The Gates 21941 hose that others have used worked perfectly with a little trimming.  The lower hose was more work.  Everyone knows that the radiator lower outlet is close and in line with the steering rack making finding a hose that fits difficult.  I spent a lot of time looking through the forum trying to find the best solution.  I ended up starting with a Gates 20357 hose attached to the water pump.  Then I went to the local Napa auto parts store and looked through their stock until I found a hose (7947) I thought would attach to the radiator and clear the steering rack.  After a lot of measuring and some cutting, it fit perfectly.  Next I bought a stainless steel exhaust tube with 90 degree bend on Amazon.  I cut the tube to length and added a lip on the ends to keep the radiator hoses from sliding off.  Works great.  Really happy with the results.  It’s hard to see in the picture but there’s clearance between the radiator hose and steering rack bellow.

[Kamal]

Looks awesome Jeff!  Lots of satisfaction in a job well done.  I will likely use your idea, as mine is binding up a good bit.

[Jeff K]

Clearance for the O2 sensor.

[Jeff K]

Made some progress in the engine compartment.  Installed the inner panels and radiator for the final time.  When I installed the inner panels I decided to trim them a little to add clearance for the upper A-arms.  I notice some people do this but most don’t.  I didn’t like the idea of the panels pressed up against the A-arms.  Got the fan and horns wired up also.  I worked up the nerve and hooked up the battery to test the horns.  They worked and there was no smoke coming from the behind the dash so that’s a good sign.  Getting close to starting the engine, hopefully in the next 2-3 weeks.  I’m retiring next week so I should have more time to work on the car after that.

[Redstang69]

Looking really nice. I made brackets and pulled the bottoms of my inner panels in some toward the center to pull them away from the a arms. Before doing that I noticed a lot of vibration transmitter to the fluid reservoirs when the engine was running. The brackets def. Helped lessen that.
Might also notched the hood hinge openings in the top radiator panel. Most of us seem to be hitting them when the hood gets closed.
Congrats on the retirement.

[Jeff K]

Thanks Ben.  I do plan on installing brackets at the bottom of the inner panels, but I didn’t know what the distance should be between the panels and frame.  I suspect there is no one answer and probably isn’t critical as long as there are proper clearances.  When I initially mocked up the radiator pieces, I did have contact between the hood hinges and top radiator panel.  So, I re-created the piece that sits on top of the radiator but shorter to help provide some clearance.  No contact anymore.

[Jeff K]

I wanted the oil temperature gauge to be functional so I installed the gauge sensor in the oil pan.  I removed the oil pan and welded on a threaded bung.  Hopefully I reinstalled the oil pan correctly and don’t have any leaks.  Getting oil pan gaskets sealed can be tricky sometimes.  One more step closer to getting it started.

[Bob Worley]

I wanted the oil temperature gauge to be functional so I installed the gauge sensor in the oil pan.  I removed the oil pan and welded on a threaded bung.  Hopefully I reinstalled the oil pan correctly and don’t have any leaks.  Getting oil pan gaskets sealed can be tricky sometimes.  One more step closer to getting it started.

My engine came with Moroso 8 qt pan, and already had the bung for oil temp sensor.