HM-2030 Build Log - The Storm Ahead

[Greg K]

This weekend I spent some time on linkage between pedal and carb. I started with a pedal position I wanted and no matter what combination I put together, nothing worked with the way my cross shaft was installed initially with a cut down arm on the carb side. I ended up swapping the the cross shaft around and now have a pedal that gives me full throttle with ease. 
The cross shaft could only move in one direction before so I fixed that too. Have some stainless 5/16 brake line on order to dress the rods up next weekend.
Received my coolant recovery tank yesterday and found a spot for it, waiting on a barb fitting for the filler neck and then I can plumb it.

[Greg K]

Took it easy this weekend not doing anything till today due to a back issue that flared up a couple of days ago, but it's feeling much better today.
Didn't like how my overflow recovery tank bracket was installed so I modified it adding new mounting holes and and taking 10 degrees out of the bracket. It now sits flush up against the inner panel and the angle it'll be at when lower panel is fastened to a bracket and the frame rail.
New air cleaner came in and much happier with this one than the all black.
Mounted and wired new horns inside the opening to the radiator on both sides.
Still waiting on a my battery that has been on backorder since early May, they say July 9th now. This one vendor has 40 on backorder of this specific model, I'm 3rd on the list. Hoping the manufacturer comes thru.

[Greg K]

Knocked out a few small things so far this weekend...finished off the threaded rods with SS tubing, made some brackets for the inner panels, painted and installed. Added a low bump stop to the throttle pedal from energy suspension, and relocated my inner eye bolts for the lap belt with a 1/4" plate of chrome moly. Plate is bolted to frame.
Hope to be bleeding brakes and clutch slave tomorrow...will be pressure bleeding with a billet cap I made up with a quick connect fitting.

[Greg K]

Was able to get the brakes and clutch slave bled yesterday. So easy with this setup. Used a quick connect adapter in an aluminum cap that I drilled and tapped. Was done in about an hour bleeding solo and few more minutes for the clutch. Couldn't have been any easier.
Only issue is clutch is not fully releasing, getting between .75"-.80" of travel at slave which calculates correctly based on bore sizes. May need additional preload on the bearing and or a larger master, will get it figured out soon.
Car hadn't been on the ground in almost a year, forgot just how low they are and felt good to get to this point.

[Greg K]

Was able to get a new 7/8" bore master cylinder in this week to replace the 3/4" for the clutch. Changed it it out today and now have a working clutch that releases. 3/4" masters used to work with a 7/8" slave when they had a 1.4" stroke, the new compact Wilwood's have 1.1" so the reason I had to go 1:1 ratio to get the minimum 1" of stroke at the clutch slave. Before I connected the lines back to the master, to let the thread sealant cure a few hours I worked on a few other things like painting the steering shaft, was starting show some surface rust from all the humidity lately. Pic of coolant overflow line routing. Connected lines, re-bled, a little firmer now, all that for just .30" more of travel. Next time do the math, it doesn't lie.

[Redstang69]

Very interesting stuff. Hard to believe that little of a difference in size can make all the difference between the clutch releasing or not.

[Greg K]

My clutch slave push rod uses the cable ball seat at the end of the fork. The original cable had to pull the fork 1" to disengage the clutch fully. There are others who use the inner hole on the fork to fasten the push rod when using a hydraulic slave. It does reduce the length the slave has to stroke slightly, I just don't know by how much. Pic attached showing the clutch fork and locations one can use for the push rod.

Or eliminate the fork and use a hydraulic throw out bearing...YMMV.

[Bob Worley]

Very interesting stuff. Hard to believe that little of a difference in size can make all the difference between the clutch releasing or not.

Thought that was my problem with my TKO600.  May need to try larger MC again

[Greg K]

Thought that was my problem with my TKO600.  May need to try larger MC again

One other thing to do is also give your TOB a 1/16"-1/8" of preload at the push rod if its adjustable.

[Bob Worley]

I have a tilton internal HTOB, not a slave cylinder.  It moves about 1" total, which should be enough.  I dont think its a problem with the hydraulics, i think its internal to my TKO600.   Sometimes it just will not go back into 1st gear.    need to have the damn thing rebuilt/upgraded or just replace with a TKX.    Sucks..       its got 10,600 miles on it now

[Greg K]

I don't think you have an issue either with the hydraulics. I've read some people have had that issue as well. When you have trouble is it when the clutch has been let out and sitting in neutral and then push in clutch and try to get into first? Can you get into first after a stop without letting clutch out in neutral? That would be the only differences, I've seen guys say with the clutch depressed go into 4th and then to first makes it easier after sitting in neutral with clutch let out. Other than that, I got nothing.

I have a tilton internal HTOB, not a slave cylinder.  It moves about 1" total, which should be enough.  I dont think its a problem with the hydraulics, i think its internal to my TKO600.   Sometimes it just will not go back into 1st gear.    need to have the damn thing rebuilt/upgraded or just replace with a TKX.    Sucks..       its got 10,600 miles on it now

[Bob Worley]

I don't think you have an issue either with the hydraulics. I've read some people have had that issue as well. When you have trouble is it when the clutch has been let out and sitting in neutral and then push in clutch and try to get into first? Can you get into first after a stop without letting clutch out in neutral? That would be the only differences, I've seen guys say with the clutch depressed go into 4th and then to first makes it easier after sitting in neutral with clutch let out. Other than that, I got nothing.

That is exactly what is happening.  After I drive a while, I would downshift to 2nd or 1st, then I come to a stop and go to neutral and let my foot off the clutch.   When its time to go again, it will not go into 1st.  or even 2nd now.  Its getting worse.   A while back I was advised to call Tremec experts MDL (Modern Driveline) in Idaho.  Paul helped me diagnose over the phone, after several diagnosing driving experiments.  He said there is a tab on the 5th gear shift rail that was too small, and doesn't reset the shifter back to normal - a reverse lock out or some such.  it thinks its still in one gear so it wont let you go into 1st.   If I shift to 5th then back to neutral it usually will then go back into 1st, but not without effort and resistance.

The best driving technique I came to is, just downshift while decelerating, it easily slides into 1st while its below 5mph etc.  Then just leave it in gear with foot on the clutch.     It really sucks in stop/go traffic, and i'm afraid of wearing out the HTOB.   

[Greg K]

My battery finally made it here this past Thursday and I was able to install today and check out some of the electrical systems. Have a little more programming to do on the Switch Pro and explore some of the other options. Programmed the Dakota Digital fan controller, was pretty easy as well. Made a few clips of some of the electrical and combined in one vid. Some pics of the Antigravity Battery and screenshot of my phone that can also remotely control the Switch Pro via Bluetooth. I need a 2nd camera to show it operate from my phone. Programming and setup is also done from the app. Just need to add fuel next!

[FFR428]

Wow that is very slick!! Looks like everything is working great. First start soon?

[Bruce N]

Pretty cool Greg! Couple dumb questions. What was the reasoning behind the special order battery as opposed to an off the shelf from the local parts store? How will you drive with the high beams on with them on a momentary switch? Wouldn't be better to have the horn on that momentary?