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Messages - Paul Proefrock

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1
Build Pictures / Re: HM2017 Build
« on: December 04, 2023, 08:26:03 PM »
Jeff,
What did you use for insulation? i had tried stickyback aluminum foil on my first build and it didn't hold up. Looking for a good solution

Paul

2
Important Information / Re: Hurricane Update
« on: November 29, 2023, 08:38:46 PM »
The new owners bought all the assets, intellectual property, fixtures and molds, inventory, everything.

The issue began when they got the pieces back to their shop and learned some of the main fixtures weren't usable. Jason had talked about the main fixture problems for the past 5 years - and he worked around it by hand-building certain parts. But those issues weren't communicated to the new owners. SURPRISE!

It's like getting married only to learn she squeezes the toothpaste tube in the middle. It can be fixed but will take some work and time.

Not a big issue but adds considerable time and expense to getting fully operational.

3
General Questions / Re: Noisy swedge tubes...(trailing arms)
« on: October 18, 2023, 06:59:54 PM »
Pete,
Grease is not your friend with Heim joints. The grease will retain dirt/sand which will accelerate the failure of the heim joint.

They make a special lube for the joints that is like a WD40 but has teflon in it. It lubricates but keeps the joint 'dry'

4
Important Information / Hurricane Update
« on: October 11, 2023, 10:25:22 AM »
Hurricane progress – you may have seen the recent post by Hurricane of their first frame on Facebook. You can see the post here

Have to hand it to these guys. Everyone knows there are some issues with the fixture for the frame that cause some build issues. They built a frame on a fixture table to verify the drawings and make the necessary corrections rather than continue on with the same old problems. Not the easiest path but they have addressed the problems. I am inspired by the way they are attacking this ‘move’.

They are also completing a car as a roller for one of the previous customers. What better way to learn of the issues and satisfy a customer at the same time?
 
I had an opportunity to visit them and the new facility last month and was duly impressed. I think our brand is in good hands – let me correct that – Better hands. Look forward to the future.

Paul

ps: don't be alarmed, the front tube cross-braces haven't been installed yet and the cross-tube in front of the X frame is sole for handling rigidity until the frame is finished. This particular frame was built for a small block

5
Build Pictures / Re: HM-2037 Build Thread
« on: September 09, 2023, 08:42:06 PM »
sat for an extended period of time with some ethanol fuel in the bowls

6
Build Pictures / Re: HM2017 Build
« on: September 05, 2023, 09:41:30 PM »
Jeff,
Pictures are hard to come by that actually show what's going on. The bung needs to be in the lower quadrant of the collector and ponting up. Sounds complicated but it can be done

The attached picture shows the passenger side, comng out of the collector and how the wire side almost touches the bottom of the dropbox area. The second shows a similar view except from the top

7
Build Pictures / Re: HM2017 Build
« on: September 04, 2023, 07:24:28 PM »
Jeff,
You might want to revisit your O2 sensor installation. They recommend they be installed between 10 and 90 degrees, yours looks to be about -20 which will make it prone to early failure due to moisture accumulation. Most all manufacturers are now using the Bosch 4.9 sensor which is prone to this issue.

When the engine first starts and before it is up to temperature, it makes a fair amount of moisture/condensate. This will accumulate on an O2 sensor and cause it to crack. This is a good article on the failure:

https://www.nzefi.com/bosch-lsu-wide-band-airfuel-ratio-lambda-sensors-fail-often-aftermarket-performance-applications/

Looks like it is on the passenger side. You can put a bung tangent to the collector and angled up a few degrees which would make it a lot better. I was able to get mine to where the wire output points to the bottom of the footbox.

This is a sketch of how mine was installed - it's still in the exhaust stream yet angles up under the body. Mine system uses two sensors, the drivers side is a little more difficult because of the extra drop in the footbox:

Paul

8
Build Pictures / Re: HM2017 Build
« on: August 03, 2023, 07:04:42 PM »
Word to the wise, make the crossbar two pieces with a nut welded onto one of them, putting the bolt up thru the flat bar that forms the cowl support so you can put the bolt in from the bottom, capture one of the tube bars then into the bar with the nut welded on the upper edge. (Clear as mud?)

There are times you need to remove the crosstubes and with them bolted in as a whole piece, you can't get them out.

Please don't ask how I know this

I ran some wiring thru one of the tubes and put the speedometer cable thru the other. Depending on the size of the tubing you used, you may have to separate the head of the speedo cable to get it thru the tube.

Paul

9
Build Pictures / Re: HM-2040 Build
« on: July 26, 2023, 07:54:09 PM »
Kamal
Be careful with the new steering rack. Part of the suspension geometry is the pivot point of the tie rod that comes from the end of the rack. If that point in relation to the other pivot point changes, you're going to introduce bumpsteer along with the potential for other issues.

If the centerline of the rack in relation to the mounting holes and the pivot to pivot point of the tie rods where they hook to the rack is exactly the same, you're in tall cotton. If it is different, you will have to re-engineer the front suspension.

Regarding the Turn to Turn amount, the only time it comes into play is when you're parking the car. I have tracked a number of cobra's and you don't need that much steering authority. 1/4 turn of the wheel makes a HUGE difference in the steering angles needed to correct any 'looseness'

Paul

10
Build Pictures / Re: HM-2037 Build Thread
« on: July 19, 2023, 09:48:14 PM »
Ben
Ours are .125 head height - what height are the ones you used?

If you used #10 screws, the height heights vary between .125" and .218" - .093" difference. If you used 1/4" screws, the height varies between .156" and .328"

I'd say put a micrometer on the head height to determine the next step.

Another issue is the placing of the screws in relation to the hinge, regardless of the size. The need to be placed in positions that will allow the hinge to clear the head when it rotates. If you've already drilled the base, you may have committed yourself to using countersunk screws. It will take a little deeper analysis to find the correct solution.

This is a picture of them on my car, with the same cap supplied by Hurricane.

Paul

11
Build Pictures / Re: HM-2037 Build Thread
« on: July 17, 2023, 07:48:28 PM »
We offer the gasket with period-correct screws and locknuts
https://prdcrrct.com/product/shelby-cobra-fuel-filler-gasket/


12
General Questions / Re: Wheel Selection & Backspace
« on: June 30, 2023, 09:28:34 AM »
Ben,
You grasped it correctly. The way the body fits over the wheels, with the normal axle width and prescribed backspace, the outer diameter/edge of the rear tire is inside the lip of the wheel well. At full axle compression and/or articulation, it rubs inside the body about 2" up on the inner fender.

You need to be real careful with any changes to axle width, tire & wheel size and backspace since you could make the tire come in contact with the lip of the fender when the design calls for it to be out of the way during this movement. You could have to set your ride height so high, it looks like a mud truck.

In the past, other guys who have played with these settings, would make a template that looked like a reverse "P" placing the straight part against the axle/wheel flange then rotate it with the axle in the full down position to see if any of the "curved part of the P" hit the fender

Paul

13
For Sale / Re: Bring a Trailer
« on: June 29, 2023, 09:14:03 PM »
Yes, it is for sale again. The owner is wanting to move on to another adventure

14
General Questions / Re: Wheel Selection & Backspace
« on: June 28, 2023, 09:23:34 PM »
I would recommend mocking up the outer edge of the tire cross-section that you could attach to your axle, then check for body clearance when the axle is at full compression.

The tire gets very close to the body when the suspension is compressed and can rub if you deviate from the design very much. Check both sides since the body is not symmetric and the axle is rarely centered between the two wheel openings.

I had to fine-tune my IRS to make sure it cleared. Even so, I've got a couple rub marks on the inside of the rear fender where it scrubbed slightly.

Paul

15
Build Pictures / Re: HM-2040 Build
« on: June 15, 2023, 07:35:55 PM »
Kamal
The fit of the body to the rear of the cockpit tub and the trunk tub has always been an issue for the Hurricane build. it started back in the Lees Summit days and continued with the Iowa builds. Bottom line, the tub does not fit to the body properly. There are a number of things you can do to make it better, but it needs to be done before the body is put on for the final time and you need to know there's an issue when you do it. Lake City didn't do a good job of informing the customers of this and unless you really dig deep into these forums, you get blind-sided with the issues.

Lake City made some mods to the way the body mounted to the cowl and frame and this only made the 'shake' worse. If your movement is confined to the rear cowl, you can do everything you can to get the body down onto the flanges, but they won't match the body contours, especially at the outer edges, in the wheel well area. Don't rely on the holes that they drilled for the quickjack mounts. There's too many tolerances involved to rely on them. Depending on how you made the connection thru the body and if it is painted or not, you may be able to relocate the holes with a grommet to accept the quickjack tube and be able to move them slightly. It takes some playing.

If you used a thick gasket material between the body and the tub, you may be able to make some ground there. I used 3/16" thick foam that compressed to almost nothing in the center. You can raise the body slightly and pull this out and change it.

The trunk tub flanges don't even come close to matching. Your best bet here was to put the body on and mark the flanges where the gasket goes and cut them off / build them up till you have an even space all around. As I recall, it takes about 3/8" gap between the flange and the body, then you put the gasket on.

Once you've got the body down as low as it will go, you can fill the openings (there will be some) with expanding foam. You can use either the Door & Window type with masking tape to form a dam on one side. That foam is kind of manila folder color. You can also use Pond/Landscaping foam which is a dark gray.  With the foams, you can fill the openings, cut the foam off when it hardens and make it look better, then cover with whatever coating you prefer.

Hope this helps you out.

Good Luck with California DMV

Paul

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