Ok I have started on the doors and have them trimmed out. I'm on my second coat of everglass. I'm happy with how they are looking.
What are these two pieces of aluminum? Nose or wheel well?
Second piece of aluminum i have no idea where it goes
First piece appears to be the front outer fender liner, attaches to inner and is like one of the last items to install after body is set. The second piece...no clue at all.
Do you have a build manual?
Figured it out...second piece is a nose piece that goes in front of radiator, holes are for an oil cooler line I think.
Yep, they line up perfectly. That's what it is, is this an included part or I wonder if the PO fabricated?
I'm confused about all the metal because the door pieces aren't big enough to even go under the latches so I'm not sure if he was cutting these or if they were included. No matter, I think I will do all of the cockpit aluminum myself. I do know I want to put extra pieces in the nose on the sides. Thanks!
Making progress on door edges with Everglass!
First Rough Draft of rolled fenders - A few more rounds needed, but I have all 4 roughed in. Also starting fiberglass work on turn signal pad/pod removal.
Quote from: rbranst69 on June 02, 2022, 11:36:13 AM
First Rough Draft of rolled fenders - A few more rounds needed, but I have all 4 roughed in. Also starting fiberglass work on turn signal pad/pod removal.
Looks good :) What are you doing with the front turn signals? Removing and putting in headlight with integrated light bar? I thought about doing that.
Hi Bruce, they are going back, just removing the elevated pad they sat on.
Quote from: rbranst69 on June 02, 2022, 05:29:28 PM
Hi Bruce, they are going back, just removing the elevated pad they sat on.
GenI cars had an elevated mounting pad for the front lights. That was eliminated on the GenII cars most of you are familiar with
Paul
Paul, did the gen II cars have sills or not? Those are next on my list. I plan on doing those next. Plan is to take 5/8 aluminum tube bent to form and epoxy/fill.
Quote from: rbranst69 on June 03, 2022, 07:40:42 AM
Paul, did the gen II cars have sills or not? . . .
The sills on the both generations are the same - the width depends on the guy who did the body trimming when it came out of the mold. It is typically wide enough that you can screw the aluminum trim to it without issues.
I used tile trim (M-D Products #70425) to form the sill. Provides a rounded edge/lip to cover the carpet edge.
My door sill was trimmed way short and I had to add fiberglass to it:
Man, I don't even have that much of a lip to work with. Mine do not 90 degree at all to form a mounting surface.
Here is what mine look like.
Real Cobra
Shew --- since yours is an early first gen kit, maybe that's how they used to make them, or the original owner trimmed it out too much. Or they used a pinch welt there instead of a sill strip. Looks like you've got some work to do - good luck.
Original Cobra sills for reference.
Quote from: rbranst69 on June 08, 2022, 10:16:25 AM
Original Cobra sills for reference.
Yeah - I don't think the PO trimmed. its all smooth edge. I've done all the body work and cutting on this car, so this is the way car number 18 came.
Quote from: rbranst69 on June 08, 2022, 10:18:24 AM
Quote from: rbranst69 on June 08, 2022, 10:16:25 AM
Original Cobra sills for reference.
Yeah - I don't think the PO trimmed. its all smooth edge. I've done all the body work and cutting on this car, so this is the way car number 18 came.
Now that I think about it, John Shelton's 1st Gen Hurricane which is HM-1038, has no sill like you. He has a pinch welt on the seam, i remember because i've ridden thousands of miles in the co-pilot seat and i kept kicking it off getting in and out ;)
Long shot, but I am going to ask Hurricane if they would mold me the sills from the updated molds so I can graft them on. Before I pursue this very far are they decently close to what a real Cobra looks like? I am going for super close to original.
Couple pictures of a local car I have access to - CSX3254. Currently for sale for 1.3M
You'll find it easier to mold new edges in place than trying to patch in strips from Hurricane, if they'll do it. They are pretty backed up on fiberglass work. Take some cardboard, cover with aluminum foil and tape to your existing opening, forming a backup for the fiberglass you add to the body and partial lip you have. When done, strip out the cardboard and continue the build up till you get it where you want.
Hope these help.
Quote from: Paul Proefrock on June 08, 2022, 08:38:40 PM
Couple pictures of a local car I have access to - CSX3254. Currently for sale for 1.3M.
I need to buy more powerball tickets...
Well these aren't going to make themselves. I am using corrugated plastic to make the forms. Wish me luck.
Ryan
Front cowl and back ready for aluminum foil and fiberglass
Lined w foil and ready to get fiberglassed
So, in my usual mode I throughly of about 10 different ways to do this. I settled on finding Carboard upholstery tack strip the right width, which I hot glued in spots to follow the contours.
I then resined these, laid a few layers of strip fiberglass mat down, trimmed and filled top and bottom with Everglass. They turned out awesome!!!
Glass matt, everglass and rough shaping after a few coats
I live the way these turned out. Getting closer to primer!
Getting there slowly but surely. I can't wait to be done sanding filler!
Ryan, are those fuel lines or coolant/heater hoses that run through the firewall?
Heater hoses
Have you happened to notice any issues with cooling system air with those being higher than you coolant fill spot?
I need to test fit my heater and see where they'll come out, I'm concerned they might be higher than where my fill point ends up.
Car has the heater installed by PO when I bought it. I haven't messed with it. Good thought on the hose height!
Starting to fab up the door to body aluminum. My car didn't come with all of this I had to make most of it.
Hey gang! Happy Tuesday to everyone. My kit through the first two owners has lost its Aluminum nose panels. I have no problem fabricating these, but I need templates/drawings or something.
I would also consider buying if anyone has these laying around unneeded. Can anyone help?
Do you have your nose brackets? I do not see them installed, they look sort of a triangle shape.
They look like this when attached.
Thanks Greg- No i don't believe I have those. My car is #18, the manual I have doesn't go into any depth on this area and what it looks like or what I should have. So I can kinda see what I should have but don't really know.
Here is a pic from the manual, do not know what version you have, but this is what the frame piece looks like pointing forward.
I have both of those panels uninstalled. I can trace on paper and mail them to you if you like? Let me know.
Ryan,
What's more important is you're going to have to figure out what to do for the nose frame supports. Not only to support the nose, they also are used to support the quick jacks/bumpers too.
Quote from: FFR428 on September 14, 2022, 10:28:44 AM
I have both of those panels uninstalled. I can trace on paper and mail them to you if you like? Let me know.
That would be great! I will PM you.
Quote from: rbranst69 on September 14, 2022, 12:24:54 PM
Quote from: FFR428 on September 14, 2022, 10:28:44 AM
I have both of those panels uninstalled. I can trace on paper and mail them to you if you like? Let me know.
That would be great! I will PM you.
Great catch. Had no idea to look for those but makes sense!!!
I don't really want to make these, anybody have any ideas?
Thermo-Tec Cool It! Going in !
Have you thought about contacting Jake to see if their guys can make you those panels? I believe he told me that they went to a laser cutting process for those recently, and I believe his powdercoat guy is doing them. Not sure if the panels are the same from Gen 1 to Gen 2, however, it wouldn't hurt to ask.
Thanks Kamal. I am comfortable making those, my bigger problem right now is the brackets for the quick jack/bumper/body mounts. I found through another member I am missing those and hadn't even noticed.
So this has been an interesting little project and a nice break from bodywork.
I fabricated aluminum panels for around the doors all the way up and around the rear wheel wells.
My Thermo Tec is all installed and sealed. Back to body work now. I am already thinking about the best way to do carpet. I'd like to have nice carpet made for it. I am thinking about what to do here, maybe use the felt stuff as a pattern and take to someone to make and bind. What did everyone else do on carpet ?
I got the carpet from hurricane with my kit. I never imagined it'd be so many pieces. Bruce N did his own, you might check his thread out.
I'm far from installing mine so I can't give feedback on how the hurricane stuff is.
I'd like to use the thin stuff in the kit to make a pattern to take somehere. Looking at some 427SC restorations, some of those are even different. Some seem bound by leather, some not. What's original?
Another side project done. I took 1" aluminum angle that wraps around the bottom dash, and welded that to 3/4" aluminum rods. Will wrap with leather or vinyl when I am done. For now the aluminum looks nice. Maybe I am just sick of the bodywork but I have been moving to the interior as of late. I'm almost finished, have to hook up the heater and wipers... then back to the bodywork. I keep saying I will be in primer in 2 weeks....
Finally got the Mocal mounted. I'm very happy with the shroud I made after evaluating hundreds of pics online. Also finned trimming out the rest of the nose and right and left of the oil cooler.
The white stuff is PVC film I will peel of after it is painted so I can keep it nice as long as possible.
Very nice!!
Thanks!
Here are a few more pics. I added a bottom to this as well not visible in pics, so the bottom mouth is aluminum lined
Last one
Thank you for the continued updates! Looks great, and I know it will be a great reference for when I get there.
My template
Collection of original oil coolers
My attempt at correct oil cooler shroud, after taking pictures and measurements of CSX3020 (real factory competition cobra), and pictures from Paul Proefrock:
(http://bobworley.com/images/hm2008/oil_cooler/IMG_8205.JPG)
(http://bobworley.com/images/hm2008/oil_cooler/IMG_8297.JPG)
(http://bobworley.com/images/hm2008/oil_cooler/IMG_8298.JPG)
(http://bobworley.com/images/hm2008/oil_cooler/IMG_8299.JPG)
(http://bobworley.com/images/hm2008/oil_cooler/IMG_8312.JPG)
(http://bobworley.com/images/hm2008/oil_cooler/IMG_8322.JPG)
Very nice Bob!
I'm in Primer! using UPOL 2275 (black).
That's awesome
Closing in on the final lap of the marathon awesome, gets one all energized seeing the final leg come into focus. Keep up the good work.
Michael
Thanks Michael. I am excited for this car to have its day. I am the third owner and it's never been finished. It's a 2005 car!!!
All Blocked out !
Paint day!!!!
Nicely done, and congratulations. Love a black (it is black isn't it) cobra just something sinister about it, just so darn hard to keep it looking clean 10 minutes after you detail it out.
Michael
That's an awesome feeling seeing the paint go on and it shines. Looks great, congrats.
Peeling back the plastic
Now comes the painful reality of putting it back together and being worried about putting a scratch on it. Best thing to do is get it out of the way early and put one in a hidden spot that will never show, just kidding. Take your time and tape is your BEST FRIEND.
Michael
Can't stop looking at it!!
Nearing completion
First pass at buffing, moving to the finer polishes now.
Under door aluminum made and in place
That turned out nice.
Was fitment around the wiring a struggle? Greg and I have been contemplating running the wiring on the outside of the tub.
Got any pics of the kick panels it looks like you made?
Thank you. I notched the tub and the wire runs between outside of tub and body along Drivers door.
On the kick panels, I did fabricate these in aluminum and the. Covered w Thermo-tech. all this pretty work will be hidden but I know it's there.
Carpet progress today
Carpeting is in
Looking good and coming together fast.
Is that the Hurricane supplies carpet?
No, I only had the cheap hurricane carpet and I didn't want to mess with it, this is a Karvel style corn row type carpet. I made templates using poster paper and then cut them out of the carpet when I was happy with them. Poster board is amazing stuff when you're doing something like this.
about 95% done
Ok guys I am done basically minus headlights. The ones the came with say made in China and PO cut the hell out the buckets. I thought this was normal. I didn't like the headlights and have been going as original as possible so I bought some headlights from Csxparts.com, wipac, real metal, proper shape, etc. FYI my car is a gen 1. So I get the hood headlights in and I have no material to mount to, and I am wondering why all the extra space around the edges. Photos are of new light held on for spacing to show extra room around the edge, other pic shows the nasty holes from original light before I painted. Many of you have asked me about all the cutouts, but that is what I got from the PO with the Chinese lights. Where to go from here? Hindsight 20/20 I would have committed to better lights before I did the body work. Next time :). Thoughts ??
Ryan,
Yes it's going to be difficult to mount the wipac bucket now, metal or the plastic ones.
One option is if you can get or make a metal ring and attach to the back of the existing opening to fit the wipac to it.
Obviously you are aware you can add glass to the opening to fit the wipac bucket. I know a pain now that it's painted.
Some people will fill the back side of the body and sand and taper the body to the trim ring. Most I think just leave it alone and do not shape to ring. Metro moulded has a nicer gasket that is larger in diameter and hugs the trim ring. That is what I'll be using on mine.
Good luck.
Awesome Greg, can you sent me a link for the bigger gasket? I think I will cut thick aluminum and resin bond to backside and then fill in the fronts. What diameter does the inside need to be? The Chinese ones fit fine I just want the Wipacs!
Here's the link https://metrommp.com/headlight_trim_ring_seals_backdraft_cobra_hr_17/
I'd say the inside diameter needs to be the inside of the gasket or diameter of bucket behind flange.
Ordered, thank you! I
Will get to work on the aluminum plates. Will be better than new!!
Ryan,
Just curious, what is the date code on those tires? The GTII's were discontinued quite a long time ago, I'm guessing 12-15 years.
I can check but I would guess sometime in 2005.
If they are, you might want to consider replacing regardless the amount of tread on them. 18 years is an old ass tire, 6 years is recommended and absolutely after 10 they should be replaced.
I cannot find a date code. The tires have always been indoors, not a single sign of dry rot. They seem brand new and have less than 1 mile. I have a tendency to agree however.
Aluminum rings seem overkill, I have had great success laminating cardboard and putting fiberglass over it with resin and West 404 where I need super strength. Here is my plan. Will then fill the front flush and san all while protecting the paint :)
Good luck on the fab of the back rings.
Date code should be 4 digits in an oval molded in the tire, could be on inside?
I'll check, going to put it on jack stands today when I do these headlights. It would be a great time to rhino line the fenders too
Speaking of all of the rhino lining, thinking about doing that in some thick coats on the trunk area, has anyone done this ??
Greg - 37th week of 2004.
Can someone please take this pic and circle approx location of the fuel sender ? I want to make an access door, and I need to wire it.
I riveted my inner fenders in but wanted a way to hold them flush and not bounce around.
I bought small eye bolts and stainless springs, they hook on the headers and to the eye bolt and pull the inner fenders into a held position with a good amount of force. I hadn't seen this so I am pretty proud of it.
We are in the middle of the operation. She looks a bit scared.
Cardboard rings are hot glued then coated front and back twice. Next step is to spread pure Red Fox urine around your garden because you have a honey do list between car tasks
.
Hope this helps. Tub placement really effects the location tho so take it with a grain of salt.
Quote from: rbranst69 on May 21, 2023, 12:14:56 PM
Greg - 37th week of 2004.
Those are some old ass tires for sure.
Plastic or aluminum tank?
Boom, right on the money. Thanks RedStang69!
I bonded a stud to the body and mounted a bracket to the outer fender panels.
LASIK progress
Man not even have to repaint :)
Quote from: Greg K on May 21, 2023, 03:02:21 PM
I bonded a stud to the body and mounted a bracket to the outer fender panels.
Whose bonded studs do you use ? I would like to do that on my vents !
I also used bonded studs for my vents too. Studs are weld mount brand. 1/4-20 x 1" SS studs with their 8040 adhesive.
Stud part # 142016 pack of 10
Adhesive part # 804030 ounce size if you can find it.
Test fit... looks good!!
Rhino lining the fenders and trunk. Gallon goes for miles !!
You're really moving along. Looking really nice.
Quickjacks from Csxparts.com. Wipacs installed, just neeed to wire them in.
Remaining : fuel sender, trunk light, wipers
Looks like the Metro rubber will work well for you too.
Greg - thanks so much for that recommendation, that was perfect. How did you come across that?
When I was sourcing the front grommets for the quick jacks, I noticed them on their site. I also noticed since then there has been a couple others who have used them here too. I also picked up the latch pads and windshield trim pads too. Old catalog attached with old pricing.
The Wipac's came with Lucas bullet style male connectors, are the females something easily obtained locally at an auto parts store? The car side is a gm weatherproof connector, trying to decide which side to cut.
Cut the bullets off and use a weatherpack connector or H4 style male connector. Also check the wiring to the headlight, been known to be wrong in some instances.
See my post here: https://forum.hurricane-motorsports.com/forum/index.php?topic=2695.0
Thanks again Greg!
Second stage cut and polish done
It's a black mirror!
That's got to be extremely satisfying to be at that stage and it look that good.
Thanks Redstang
That is looking very nice, awesome job!
Where are you at with driving it and registration?
Hey Kamal - Thanks for asking and the timing couldnt be better.
As you know I bought an unfinished kit. The MSO was in PO's name. I went through quite a time in KS proper. Mostly becuase the two stations I went to first for VIN inspection were terrible. I ended up going to Lawrence KS and had no issues. 3rd times a charm.
First off - Kansas only inspects VINs and looks for theft. No one will check your wipers, horn, turn signals etc. Its a VIN inspection.
Things to note: If you buy an incomplete car, don't get a bill or sale or call it a car/vehicle on the bill of sale.
Your seller must sell you an unfinished kit with a separate motor and transmission. My first problem was a had a Missouri Bill of sale for a motor vehicle, the inspector on the second visit, second location said "he cant sell you a car, he can sell you a bunch of parts". Had to bother PO again to rewrite the bill of sale. I will be happy to provide a sample....
Steps in Kansas are:
1. VIN Inspection and Kansas TR91 Affadavit, this shows where all the components came from.
2. Kansas DMV and Kansas TR212 Form, this is the application for title.
So what happened? Lawrence was awesome, they KEPT the HM-1018 as the VIN, did not affix their own VIN. They titled as a 2023 because that is the year of completion. I'm fine with that and I dont know why people get hung up on the title year, newer the better. Didn't fight for a 1965.
After inspection of VIN on passenger dash and a PIC of the VIN behind the driver's rear wheel, and reviewing the original invoice in POs name from 2005, the inspector completed my TR91 affadavit and her comments and I was ready to go to the DMV to apply for a title. They take the TR91 and the TR212 (application for title) and go from there. I ordered the Kansas "Don't Tread on me" Gadsden Flag plates, which are yellow plates with a black snake. Its badass and I fully support the NRA and was happy the plate donation will go to Kansas Rifle Association.
Have logged about 200 miles total. Still some little things nagging me will do a full post when I am "happy" with it.
Seems like every state has a different system. Some people seem to have an issue getting through the California process, but the process has been in place since the early 2000s, and my run through has been very easy.
Well I know we would all like to be able to post that our cars went together and drove great, but I'm finding that the most challenging part of the build for me is...now. The car is built for the first time, with rough and basic body work, and rough around the edges as a car, and its time to slowly work through those issues. So, I would love to hear here, or on PM, about your impression from first drive to where you are at now, and where you would like to get to.
I'll be the first to say, that the car is currently a challenge to drive and enjoy, but as I tweak on stuff (alignment is a big thing), more hope is entering the picture. Doesn't help that my daily driver for the past 7 years is such a sweet car.
I hear you. My daily is an Audi Etron. Couldn't be any more different than the Cobra.
I am finding and fixing squeaks, adjusting fit and finish, fine tuning the driveability.
I have a few wiring issues to attend to, but it's at the enjoyable stage where you always have something to tinker with and improve but nothing preventing you from enjoying the car.
The more you drive and adjust to the setup you'll be more comfortable in it.
CT Here has a terrible composite process to register the car. I have to also trailer the car for inspection. Huge pia.uch red tape n bs.
Happy Father's Day all! I made myself some door pockets finally. I am going for a very original look.
I know these were lined with carpet originally but I covered mine in Alcantara Suede and then Naugahyde, leftover from a Nauga I killed last fall. They turned out super nice!
Really makes the doors look not so kittish. I still need to vinyl cover the dash supports and put the hinge covers on but I am almost done.
Full interior shot.
New shoes! MT S/T's
See the above post, I had to have the owner rewrite the bill of sale as an unfinished kit, and separately the new motor and transmission. An MSO is not transferrable.
Result is a year 2023 (completion) ford cobra. Bit me on insurance too as I had to have it rerated to 2023 when I saw the title. It was insured as 2005 (MSO Year) until I saw the issued title.
My insurance went waaay up because of this.
Kansas Title Kit cars as a Make of ASVE (Assembled Specialty Vehicle). In brands mine says reconstructed although it was never titled. After lengthy calls with Topeka, its just the way they do it. Its a clean title, if you call and ask nothing is wrong with it. It just says reconstructed in the brand section.Again, two people I talked to said this is how it is done.
Result will be fun to explain to someone someday, and that it has nothing to do with wreck, insurance claim or used parts. Hopefully not an issue.
I'm still enjoying the car!
Looks so tiny !
Looks good. I bet you're enjoying driving it, I know I am.
Are you having the suspension noise like some of us?
I don't feel like I am, I am actually very happy with the suspension and how the car feels and sounds. I am slowly shaking it down and killing some squeaks and rattles, I do have some squeaks I feel like are from the roll bar grommets. What is the suspension noise you are talking about ?
It's a creaking that is almost constant as you drive over the imperfections of the road, and if you grab a rod end heim and pull it back and forth, it will create the same creaks. I believe the FK heims solved my problem, but I was only able to do a spin around the block. The QA1 heims that came out were definitely looser than when they were new.
Perhaps your car was supplied with other, better heims?
Also, have we figured out if the creaking is just a solid axle problem, or if the IRS is doing the same with the Qa1 parts.
What Kamal described is what I'm experiencing. When driving mine does sound like it's the roll bar, but I can shake the roll bar and get no noise, if I push up and down on the rear end I can tell it's the rear suspension.
I can say that I worked more on my alignment over the weekend and as I dialed it in the rear noise seemed to get less and eventually went away. To further clarify that, when I was turning the wheel side to side adjusting caster, it would cause the rear to make noise at first, but once the caster was dialed in the rear no longer makes any noise when I turned the steering wheel. I haven't had a chance to drive the car yet after the alignment adjustments.
I bounced the car and it is definitely the suspension not the roll bar grommets.
Added the pouch behind the seat from CSXparts. Looks original, I even did the lift-a dots.
Hides the shoulder harnesses when not using. What do you think ?
Quote from: rbranst69 on October 10, 2023, 10:02:24 PM
Added the pouch behind the seat from CSXparts. Looks original, I even did the lift-a dots.
Hides the shoulder harnesses when not using. What do you think ?
Love it!
I all the sudden had a bunch of squeaks about a week ago and thought for sure it was my roll bar. Ended up spraying the heim joins with silicon spray after reading some suggestions and it fixed it instantly. I'd give that a try if you haven't already.
Thanks Jerry!