I am glad to be a part of the Hurricane family and am looking forward to receipt of my 427 Cobra kit sometime this year. I wanted to get started on this log and try out the forum features so when I do receive my kit, I will not be fighting the technology. I retired at the start of 2019, so I have time and energy for this project that I have been dreaming about for years......
Thanks to all who have been sharing on this forum as it has already been a great help preparing me for the storm ahead.
I ordered the 427 Complete kit from HMC on 11/30/2020 with a few upgrades such as Wind Wings, Windshield Wipers, Sun Visors and black powder coated Frame, Quick Jacks and Roll Bars. I have not yet decided on a color. My wife will have a big say in this decision. My plan is to enjoy driving along country / mountain roads with an occasional light track experience.
I decided to build my own engine for this project. I was able to find a 351W roller block from a 1997 F250 that I modified to a 408 stroker. I am still working on dressing it out.
I will be using a WC Tremec T5 that has been freshly rebuilt.
I should probably get busy with my chassis dolly and body buck / hoist. I hope to be updating soon with some better news on my kit delivery.
Jim
Welcome to the forum. Will be looking forward to following your build.
Welcome, Jim!
There are a few of us Hurricane owners in the north Texas area. I think I'm one of the few 2nd generation Hurricane builder/owners. I'm about 60 miles south of you, in Midlothian. Looking forward to watching your build and would be glad to help out.
Bob
Welcome Jim
Look forward to seeing your build.
Thank y'all for the welcome! I have enjoyed following each of your posted experiences and comments.
Bob,
Thank you for your offer of help. Glad to know you live so close and are still enjoying your build. I will try to contact you soon to discuss further. I am also glad Bruce N lives so close to us and am looking forward to meeting with him as well.
Jim
I have been frustrated with the Covid excuses for a very late delivery, but am now faced with the reality that this kit will be here very soon. I believe Stewart Transport will pick it up from HMC July 28. In the mean time, I built my frame dolly and body buck based on Greg's and Paul's designs. I plan on hoisting the body under a carport awning.
I added back some pics above that were lost in system migration and some glamour shots of the dolly and buck:
Getting close now!!! :) My kit should arrive by Friday (30th) via Stewart. Looking forward to this build, for sure.
I did buy tires and wheels. Tires came in within a few days, but wheels are delayed. Looks like some major wheel manufacturing company buyouts and restructuring has caused the delay. Oh well, it will be a bit before I need them.
My kit arrived with no issues. I spent some time arranging the frame onto my dolly and removing the door, hood and trunk panels. I tried to find a build sheet, but no luck, so I sent a email to Alec. Tomorrow, I will continue limited inventory check and maybe start on the windshield alignment. I love looking at this body in my garage, but am ready to get started on the chassis assembly.
Now the fun really begins! Keep us posted with lots of pics.
Glad you got your delivery!! Have fun and yes lots of pictures please.
Quote from: s_reynolds on July 31, 2021, 09:49:59 AM
Now the fun really begins! Keep us posted with lots of pics.
Glad to see Jim! My daughter and I got back last night with 2034. Was quite a haul but we had a good time and got out to see some country. Now a bunch of organizing before we get started :)
So glad to be finally working on this project. Saturday was basically organizing parts and establishing the windshield alignment and mounting holes. We lifted the body off the car and up out of the way.
Sunday, I made some decent progress on assembling and mounting the rear end and suspension components. I followed Greg K's scheme of waiting on axles, caliper brackets and calipers. This made it much easier to manipulate into position. I Had to clean a lot of paint from every bolt clearance hole on this frame. >:( I cannot find the 5/8 ID x 1/2" spacers and the DOM? bushing ID is undersized, so I will call HMC tomorrow.
The 4 DOM bushing spacers are like pinky rings that are inserted on the axle trailing arm bracket. Look for a plastic ziploc with them in it.
Quote from: NTX-CLANK on August 01, 2021, 09:15:59 PM
So glad to be finally working on this project. Saturday was basically organizing parts and establishing the windshield alignment and mounting holes. We lifted the body off the car and up out of the way.
Exciting!! Looking forward to seeing the progress...
I am moving right along and having a lot of fun along the way. A few snags that I am now calling "opportunities to learn".... like skills with a cutoff wheel...
Completed Rear Axle Assembly caliper brackets/backing plates. I also had to machine the ID of the sheetmetal backing plates to fit over the axle bearing and modify the spacer (between bearing and mounting plate) into a "C" shape similar to the mounting plate. I was sure to orient the spacer opening ~180 deg from the mounting plate opening. I removed the lock washers on the lugs to prevent possible interference with the e-brake HW. The ball joint socket I purchased worked perfect for knocking these seals in place. All I lack now are the correct DOM washers from Hurricane....
Completed Front Suspension Assembly. No issues other than shock and control arm mounting spacers. I substituted washers as needed. Stacked washers based on where the arms wanted to ride naturally. Ball joints threaded in nicely without heating/freeze tricks.
Steering Rack threaded ends had to be shortened 1" each side. I used the alternate bushings recommended by Greg K. These are the Cardone PN: 22-207MB. Only snag with this assembly was the 5/8"-11 threaded frame for the drivers side bolt needed to be re-tapped. Also, on the passenger side, wrench access is limited (access slot in the bottom of the frame). Only my box end wrench would fit in the slot and I had to shorten the bolt by 1/2" to prevent trapping my wrench once bolt was tightened.
Front Rotors and Brakes assembled per plan. Drivers side was a breeze, but passenger side spindle was a little bunged up and needed cleanup. Once brakes were installed, I noted a larger-than expected gap (.25-.38") between the caliper/shoe and rotor. I assume there is plenty of piston travel ??
Brake lines required some study and thought and trial and error. I am still in the error phase, but I ordered some fittings due in tomorrow that should help clean things up. I like how the rear brake lines came out anyway. I went ahead and mounted the pedals and master cylinders so I should complete the plumbing next week. I deferred fuel lines for after tank install.
Routed and mounted E-brake cables today. I drilled and tapped the frame to mount the cable holding/adjustment bracket. I shortened cables for best lay and added strain-relief.
Fuel tank required some grinding of welds to fit up into position. I match-drilled and mounted using 7X .25-20 bolts. Very sturdy mount, so I will probably omit the straps. With tank in place, I can determine best fuel line routing.
I routed the battery cables and will terminate them at a later time.
The manual says I am almost ready to install my engine?? That will be great to make driveshaft measurements and further fit-checks.
Still waiting on my wheels to be delivered from the factory. Also, I am missing my hinges, so. I have to run those down.
Thanks to Bobby Worley, I met up with the Texas Cobra Club -DFW folks Saturday and saw some awesome Cobras of all brands. First FaceTime with Bobby who's posts have been very helpful for us new guys. Greg Tyler (HM2033) was also there and said he will be picking his kit up next week.
See pics below:
Jim,
Pad gap can be resolved with the proper spacer, several styles out there. I used one that is shaped like the pad backplate for my gap of .190". If you have more you can get a .25" that is round and slips into the piston. Just google "metric caliper pad spacer".
Was great to finally meet you, Jim.
This was a good week! My wife, Debbie and I installed the engine and transmission onto the frame. It JUST made it with the transmission mount bolts at the extreme end of their X-frame slots. I found a local driveshaft guru who will be able to complete my 14" center-to-center driveshaft this week.
I went ahead and installed the intake manifold, water pump, alternator brackets and distributor. I made a decent first pass at wire routing with the headers in place. I want to crank this thing up since it has never run...., but better slow my roll.
Worked out a plan for stainless flex fuel tubing and AN fittings. Purchased component fittings and hard tube adapters so now, once I find good homes for each component, I can order simple straight connector tube assemblies or make my own.
I spent some time fabricating slave setup using a Miata 3/4" slave cylinder mounted to an angle bracket (based off of LMR design). Went ahead and plumbed the line and tested. Need to fabricate a stiffer bracket or just break down and buy the LMR $etup. I really want this dialed in before I mount the tub.
Performed a tub test fit and had to modify the shifter hole a bit. Afterward, it looks pretty good relative to the frame. I will also need to slot e-brake slot forward a bit. Sounds like I should take Paul F's advise and hold off on rivets and glue.
Installed the fuel sending unit. Had to re-arrange a file a bit on the sender brackets to get it to fit and clock properly between the tank internal baffles.
Began looking at wiring and gages. My T5 is from a 94-95 Mustang and it has an electronic sensor with 12-cog reluctor. This will not work with the mechanical speedometer, so I am hunting for a good alternative. I would rather not crack open the transmission. Autometer makes an electronic Cobra style 4", so I may go that route. Calibration sounds like a breeze. Any comments on this plan would be appreciated.
It's time to decide on header and side pipe finishing. I am thinking of wrapping my headers to help keep the heat down in the footbox area. I probably need some further guidance on this issue.
Have 2 front wheels on the way now. The 2 rear wheels are on backorder still and show 3 weeks out. Oh well, I will find something to do while I wait.....
It was kind of exciting this week to get my wheels. I decided to ditch the backordered 10" wide wheels and went with 8" wide all around. Had the tires mounted at Firestone after I reviewed their methods for protecting the aluminum wheels. They did a great job! Chassis is now looking more like a car now.
While picking the wheels up, I received a call from the driveshaft supplier and went and picked that up. Looks great, but will probably need to adjust the pitch angle slightly after I set the chassis on the wheels. I understand that some transmission mounts are lower profile and can help to straighten out the driveline.
Fabricated and painted the final version of the clutch slave bracket that is very stiff.
Decided on braided nylon fuel hose and made up some lines for Tank to Filter, Filter to Pump and pump to Hard Line. Fuel filter shown temporarily mounted waiting on me to fabricate a new bracket. I need some more fitting$ to complete front lines.
Completed engine carburetor mounting and vacuum plumbing. Also installed thermostat and bypass heater hose. Transaxle transmission were filled with fluids. Still need to test all brake lines and fittings.
Reviewed steering assembly and throttle linkage techniques. Had to review forum posts in order to figure it out. The throttle pedal mounts using a corner brace that doubles as a steering shaft bearing support brace, so no need to measure for the bearing clearance hole - just use the corner brace as a guide. I could not put one bolt into the brace. Three bolts are enough.
I did not purchase the aluminum wrap for front of footbox / firewall, so I will start sanding and filling the fiberglass in preparation for painting. I plan to fill the tub / chassis voids similar to Bruce N's methods as best I can.
That's it for now. I think I will try to set the chassis down on the wheels to take a look at the alignments. I also bought some adhesive to bond my dash covering, so I can start that project this weekend after I do some much-needed yard work.
Jim
Jim, an alternative to your speedometer issue, take a look at Speed Hut. They are the same ones I believe Hurricane uses on their factory car. They might be able to help you with your issue of connectivity.
Michael-
HM-2013
Michael,
Thank you for the tip. I splurged a bit and ordered the SpeedHut GPS speedometer. This will solve my T5 interface issue and provide upgraded accuracy and data.
Not a lot to report this past week, but I picked up some new "skills" related to fiberglass and painting. Similar to what Bruce did, I fiberglassed in some sealing flanges and painted the exterior footbox area of the Cockpit. I decided to practice the Sand - Bondo - Prime - Base Coat - Clear Coat spray methods and I think that it turned out pretty well for a newbie. I just need to mount some reflective panels near where the headers will be and then, I can mount the tub.
I cut and bonded the vinyl to the dash panel and mounted all of the gauges except for the speedometer. New GPS speedo has a 3 week lead time.
Debbie helped me bleed the brakes and check out all the brake line fittings (no leaks!)
Jim
Just a few updates to report this past week.
I cut a hole in trunk tub for sender clearance and access.
I riveted the aluminum panel forward of the dash and cut and stuck the wrinkly reflective sheet that was supplied with the kit. Looks better than I thought and maybe the refractive properties of the wrinkles will help???? Nahhh.
I painted the headers and sidepipes with VHT flat black and am ready to wrap the headers. Alec said the header/side pipe flange gaskets were due in, so he will send that to me.
I added edge trim on front fender well panels.
I ordered and received HW for footbox ventilation.
Attempted to fit up radiator and learned that my radiator was delivered without mounting channels attached. Alec is sending me some adapter brackets.
Mounted steering shafts and pillow blocks for real.
I won't get anything done for about 2 weeks while I am in Louisiana working disaster relief.
Very nice. Like the headers!
Not a lot to report, but at least I will document the following lack of progress this week:
Headers:
I completed the header wrap and painting. I like how they turned out and hope they help keep the footbox area cooler. Looking forward to being able to heat cure the VHT ceramic paint very soon.
Radiator/Fan:
Received radiator adapto-brackets and fan mounting brackets from HMC today and will install radiator and fan tomorrow.
Dash:
Received the SpeedHut GPS speedometer and installed into the dash. I need some guidance on what the DPDT switch is for (see pic)....Update 9/19: I looked more closely at the manual. Switch must be for high/low beam.
Footbox Vents:
Gathering up the nerve to cut the 3" holes into my nice, new paint job......
Next report should include more about the above and the first fit-up of the body.
Header wrap is a good idea. I need to do the same. Everything looks great. Nice job.
I HAVE made some progress over the last 2 mo I spent over 4 weeks working TBM disaster relief (chainsaw team) in LA after hurricane IDA.
Radiator: Mounted radiator and fan using adapt-brackets and installed radiator hoses and filled system with coolant.
Wiring: Installed the Haywire harness and wired up the instruments, ignition and sensors. I am also adding circuits for fuel pump, heated seats, footbox vents. I purchased an additional 6-gang fuse box and a 5-gang rocker switch panel that I plan to mount in a custom center console. I pulled a real dumb, rookie stunt and wired the "Main Ground" to the Starter Stator windings instead of the engine block. When I tested the Starter circuit, the bulkhead connection for the "Main Ground" got hot enough to melt the bulkhead at that connection. Darren at Haywire helped me diagnose the issue and offered to rapidly replace the damaged bulkheads for me. That is some awesome customer service!! I will have to remove each harness connector and replace into the new harness bulkhead connector, but Darren offered to talk me through the process. Of course, I corrected the ground wiring.....now I wait...
First Start Attempt: Even though I am on hold for the wiring harness, I could not wait any longer to fire the engine up for the first time. I used my remote starter switch to spin up the oil pressure, readied the fire extinguisher, added a jumper wire from the battery to the coil. I was happy when it started right up and ran smoothly!!!
Startup Video:
https://youtu.be/MCbJgA5ornw
Plans for this week include mounting and filling the brake and clutch reservoirs and bleeding the systems so I can get this thing off of the jack stands and outside for additional engine tuning and exhaust paint curing.
It's past time for an update.
Wiring: Received my repaired Haywire fuse/relay box and reinstalled. I finished up dash wiring for light dimmer and ventilation fans and wipers. I am still planning on adding a center console and mounting of a panel of switches, USB port, power port and volt meter.
Brakes/Clutch: Installed brake and clutch reservoirs, but now have to move them down to clear the body. I think I will make a bracket to mount them all and relocate as a unit. Bleeding of brakes went well, but am having trouble with the clutch. This prevented me from go-cart testing before body fit-up.
Steering: The steering double-D shaft was too short and interferes with the DS header and will not allow steering wheel engagement. Hurricane is sending me a new, longer shaft, but in the mean time, I moved the set screw drilled spots out about 3/4" total for a TEMPORARY fix only as I am still waiting for the new shaft.
Wipers: I mounted the motor and roughly configured guide tubes prior to body fit-up.
Body fit- up: Gave thanks on Thanksgiving for the extra muscle to help set the body in place! This went very smoothly and all seems to line up very well. Doors will be a bit of a challenge as per others' experience. Door latch faces down (see pic). This is counter-intuitive, but works just fine ergonomically and fits the door molding better. The hood and trunk lid should align and trim well. Holes for roll bars took me an entire day, but worked out a great method to mark the hole positions using a laser and PVC to "bore sight" bar axes. The PS rear bar interferes with the trunk pan and I can not seem to shift the pan over. I machined holes in the body and the gas cap for mounting. (I think I will use flat head 1/4-20 screws to mount the cap base instead of the round-head screws mentioned in the manual). Windshield was set in place in order to place holes for wipers. Went with the 2" forward of the bottom chrome and 20" spacing centered on the body.
The body is now off again and on the buck waiting for clean-up and trimming. May try to do some of that while the weather is nice this week. Lots to do on the chassis still.....
Looks great, Jim!
Thanks, Bobby.
I am making some progress. I was able to bleed my clutch and check timing so I could go-cart it a bit.
https://youtu.be/KNiqczji1TE
https://youtu.be/jcmlrhkQs8I
The clutch needs more travel, so I have ordered a new master cylinder and I have some small brake fluid leaks that I will take care of when I get my new switch T-fittings. I installed the radiator overflow tank and cut additional trunk tub clearance around fuel tank fill neck. Now, roll bar rear segments clear the tub.
Quote from: NTX-CLANK on December 06, 2021, 08:24:49 PM
Thanks, Bobby.
I am making some progress. I was able to bleed my clutch and check timing so I could go-cart it a bit.
https://youtu.be/KNiqczji1TE
https://youtu.be/jcmlrhkQs8I
The clutch needs more travel, so I have ordered a new master cylinder and I have some small brake fluid leaks that I will take care of when I get my new switch T-fittings. I installed the radiator overflow tank and cut additional trunk tub clearance around fuel tank fill neck. Now, roll bar rear segments clear the tub.
Looks great Jim! I had the same problem with my slave but was able to adjust it enough. My adjustment on the inside peddle was off but had enough to get it set.
Got caught up in the play off games and didn't post anything. Little progress on the rear fenders while I was watching games. Think I will pick up a 295/50R15 and see if I like that better. This one fits but every time I look at it it looks a little more awkward being so tall. Kinda like an ol school hot rod.
I like how the fenders are coming out. To me looks like a big improvement. Still a little finish work to do on the lips and bottom edge plus build up some thickness on the inside. But pretty much there.
Quote from: Bruce N on January 24, 2022, 03:18:10 PM
Got caught up in the play off games and didn't post anything. Little progress on the rear fenders while I was watching games. Think I will pick up a 295/50R15 and see if I like that better. This one fits but every time I look at it it looks a little more awkward being so tall. Kinda like an ol school hot rod.
I like how the fenders are coming out. To me looks like a big improvement. Still a little finish work to do on the lips and bottom edge plus build up some thickness on the inside. But pretty much there.
Sorry Jim. I replied to wrong thread :(
Quote from: Bruce N on January 24, 2022, 03:28:14 PM
Quote from: Bruce N on January 24, 2022, 03:18:10 PM
Got caught up in the play off games and didn't post anything. Little progress on the rear fenders while I was watching games. Think I will pick up a 295/50R15 and see if I like that better. This one fits but every time I look at it it looks a little more awkward being so tall. Kinda like an ol school hot rod.
I like how the fenders are coming out. To me looks like a big improvement. Still a little finish work to do on the lips and bottom edge plus build up some thickness on the inside. But pretty much there.
Sorry Jim. I replied to wrong thread :(
No problem, Bruce! I am just happy to get some activity on this thread. ;). I see you must love working with fiberglass. Looks great!! I probably will minimize that kind of crazy stuff, but know that I will be leaning on you quite a bit for guidance as I take on the body work and paint myself.
I should add to this build thread soon, I am in the process of installing HushMat to the tub and fixing all of the leaks before I put the body back on for good. We are finally over the Covid, but are still quite occupied with my Mother-In-Law's care needed 24/7.
I really am making some progress, but have been negligent on logging it. Seems most of what I have been working on is rather boring and non-photogenic. I am a bit more encouraged now that spring is near and have been able to pull the car out and get a bit messy with the bodywork.
Electrical: I discovered some missing grounds and now my dash lights and speedometer seem to be working great. Found a great little electrical box cover to cover my fuel sensor access hole in the trunk. I also completed waterproof terminations for headlights and front marker lights. All front lights work as they should.
Sound mitigation: Completed installation of cockpit sound mitigation. I used a product called KillMat. I might go with double thickness around the foot box to help with thermal isolation.
Body installation: Family fun times installing the body for the last time with no pinched fingers! Body lined up OK and bolted it down. Good to have it back on and in it's final position. I wish I had spent more time grinding and sanding the rough edges while it was off of the chassis.
New air compressor: I found out real quick that my 6 gallon air compressor was not going to work out for any DA sanding or paint spraying, so It was time for an upgrade. I shopped around for 60 to 80 gallon 5 hp with 12+ scfm flow capability and found what I needed at Tractor Supply near me. This thing is a beast and unloading and placing was a bit challenging for this old guy. Son-in-law to the rescue again! It is now bolted to the floor and temporarily plumbed and wired. MAN, I love this thing!
Panel edging: After body was bolted down, I could mark and trim the panel edges. I am real close now except for parts that need build-up >:(. Gaining confidence with fiberglass build-up. Have a huge gap to fill on the drivers side door and pic shows current progress and need for further build-up. Will need to do the same type of filling on the passenger side and hood corner.
First pass body work: Took car outside and ground excess fiberglass around wheel wells and sanded down the multiple mold weld seams on this body. Still lots of edging work to do in cockpit area, so I will have to come up with a good masking plan.....
Sheetmetal: I installed the sheetmetal nose plugs and front fender skirts. The shape of the skirts could be improved a bit for a better seal, but I will call that done for now.
Headlight Buckets: I mounted and verified bucket orientation and then removed for bodywork and paint.
Currently, the weather has the car back in the garage, so I may work on more wire routing or maybe even take on installation of the seat heaters. I plan to visit with Bruce N later this week to "help" with block and sand and get as much information as I can handle.
Glad to see you back at it Jim. You can never take too many pictures, believe me.
I have finally gotten to a point where I can start the prime and block process on my body and panels. There is way too much bodywork that has to be done on these kits. One of my main problems with motivation has been the amount of body fillers and glazing putty needed. I keep telling myself how much $ I am saving.....
Much thanks to Bruce N for his help and encouragement.
Pictures of my progress (this day)
I'm gonna bribe Bruce to do all my body works. He definitely knows his stuff.
Quote from: Bob Worley on May 31, 2022, 07:45:57 AM
I'm gonna bribe Bruce to do all my body works. He definitely knows his stuff.
LOL. No bribe needed. Lets put a plan together! Just some $$ for materials and some cold beer to keep me motivated :) Got a buddy's 66 C-10 in the shop now for probably 6 months or so. But winter is better!
Quote from: Bruce N on May 31, 2022, 11:39:23 PM
Quote from: Bob Worley on May 31, 2022, 07:45:57 AM
I'm gonna bribe Bruce to do all my body works. He definitely knows his stuff.
LOL. No bribe needed. Lets put a plan together! Just some $$ for materials and some cold beer to keep me motivated :) Got a buddy's 66 C-10 in the shop now for probably 6 months or so. But winter is better!
Will be a few years for me before paint ... lots of home projects to finish first, and i'm still enjoying driving in gelcoat! 10k miles now ...
June has been a good month for progress:
Finished next pass body fill/ glaze and sanding 220 grit and another pass of primer. Still finding pin holes and rough edges that need correction.
Completed sanding 320, 400 and 600. Still finding pin holes and imperfections....Weather forecast showed hot and dry and getting hotter, so I decided that it was time to gut it up and spray.
This post was limited to base coat progress pictures due to file size restrictions:
Masking (I learned a bit about how important this stage is!)
3 coats of base yellow
Layout and mask for stripes (I used the FF basic recipe)
3 coats of black for stripes
See next post for clear pics....
Here is what she looks like today after 2-3 coats of clear. I have a bit of work ahead to correct and buff out all of the issues, so the learning never stops! Some assembly still required before I can get this thing registered.
Very happy how it turned out.
Looks awesome Jim! Hard to believe you've never done body and paint before. Takes some big ones just to attempt it! But to attempt and have come out as well as yours has is really something to say the least. Takes a bit of natural talent :)
Now get it put together so we can go for a drive:)
PS:(without chipping or scratching. And don't drop the doors on their edge) >:(
Looks fantastic.Great job!
Hi Jim, car looks great, and hats off to shooting the paint yourself!! What size tires did you use, and any issues with going 8" with the larger rear tires? I like the look and leaning heavily toward that size.
Also, a general question on going with the 15" wheels, I have the larger Wilwood brakes w/12.19" rotors. Do you think there will be any clearance issues with 15" wheels? Thanks.
Looks really good Jim. I too hate masking. You really have to plan a couple days ahead of when you want to paint to be able to take the time necessary to mask it well. Something I usually don't plan very well for haha.
Quote from: Bruce N on June 20, 2022, 08:48:44 AM
Looks awesome Jim! Hard to believe you've never done body and paint before. Takes some big ones just to attempt it! But to attempt and have come out as well as yours has is really something to say the least. Takes a bit of natural talent :)
Now get it put together so we can go for a drive:)
PS:(without chipping or scratching. And don't drop the doors on their edge) >:(
Thank you, Bruce. That means a lot coming from you. Your guidance has been spot on and very timely during the process. Thanks for keeping the bar raised for the rest of us. Even your dropped door has been helpful each time I handle my doors. I am so ready to get this thing on the road.
Quote from: yamrad44 on June 20, 2022, 09:54:25 AM
Hi Jim, car looks great, and hats off to shooting the paint yourself!! What size tires did you use, and any issues with going 8" with the larger rear tires? I like the look and leaning heavily toward that size.
Also, a general question on going with the 15" wheels, I have the larger Wilwood brakes w/12.19" rotors. Do you think there will be any clearance issues with 15" wheels? Thanks.
Thanks, Clark.
My tire sizes are:
F: 235/60/15 Cooper Cobra
R: 295/50/15 Cooper Cobra
I had no mounting issues with the 8" wide wheels on the rear and I do like the look as well. I am no tire/wheel expert, however, but will report any handling issues if they come up. I do not plan on road racing this thing, but I am interested in it holding the curvy roads I would like to run on. I am having to use 1.5" wheel spacers on the rear to get these wheels / tires to have a meaner stance. I am not sure about your dimensions for your Wilwood calipers, but they would need to be a low profile design. Let me know if you need me to measure the wheel ID. Attached is the wheel specs I have. I was not able to get the 10" version within my time line.
Quote from: Redstang69 on June 20, 2022, 11:15:03 AM
Looks really good Jim. I too hate masking. You really have to plan a couple days ahead of when you want to paint to be able to take the time necessary to mask it well. Something I usually don't plan very well for haha.
Thank you, Ben. I learned about buying good quality masking tape. It sure makes a difference.
Jim, if you could get me the wheel ID that would be great, I really appreciate the help, thanks!!
Jim, great job on the car!! That's a nice shade of yellow. Pops with the black stripes. Very cool. Enjoy.
Quote from: yamrad44 on June 22, 2022, 12:35:31 PM
Jim, if you could get me the wheel ID that would be great, I really appreciate the help, thanks!!
ID=14" at wheel mounting surface and tapers to 14.5"
Jim
Slow progress on color sanding and polish. I am a bit concerned that I may not have enough clear coat build to sand all of the orange peel that is left. I have worked on one area so far working from 1000 grit to 3000 and it looks promising...next, I will try my hand at buffing and polishing....more to come soon.
Paint correction and buffing mostly complete, so am currently working on final assembly. I am very pleased with how it is turning out. Next, I will be working on panel alignment, trunk detail and interior. I am anxious to get her registered and street legal!
lookin real good Jim! Be cruising in no time 8) Now....If it would just cool down a bit so we can enjoy these things! Took mine out yesterday for quick trip to store and about burnt up >:(
Quote from: Bruce N on July 24, 2022, 07:50:37 AM
lookin real good Jim! Be cruising in no time 8) Now....If it would just cool down a bit so we can enjoy these things! Took mine out yesterday for quick trip to store and about burnt up >:(
Thanks, Bruce. I think I should be ready for cruising this fall if all goes well. My wife is enjoying me "putting the jewelry on" her after seeing it so ragged for so long.
Jim
I did a cursory front alignment myself and trailered her to Christian Brothers for final alignment and ASE inspection that failed for some steering interferences and a leaking fuel pump. I took the opportunity to reposition the new pump below the bottom of the tank, letting gravity be more friendly. I got a one-trip tag and drove it back this time (such a blast) and PASSED. Took all needed docs to TXDMV and now am waiting Austin approvals.
Finally set timing at 10 base 30 full btdc and it runs great. Am currently fighting some rattles and working interior features.
Pretty awesome milestone Jim, congrats.
What was the steering interference issue? I know my caliper banjo bolt will hit my coilover spring. Alec said it should be ok once I get weight on it, I don't have the engine in yet so we'll see.
Ben,
My steering shaft was rubbing against the driver side fender skirt. When I riveted the fender well panel just behind the front wheel, it kicked the skirt in too much. I just drilled out the rivets and trimmed the panel and re-attached.
The shaft also comes very close to my headers, so watch that area as well.
Almost a month later, I am now registered given the privilege of driving this beast. I am having a blast driving some short trips in the beautiful weather we are having here right now. Debbie likes to ride with me! I just have to start it up and back out of the garage.....here she comes wanting to hitch a ride...I love it!
Debbie helps to keep me calm as I am tracking down some very annoying rattles and squeaks. I rode in Bruce N's Cobra and it was very tight with no rattles....so it CAN be done. Even with squeaks, I cannot help but smile as the car runs great with more power than I will ever need.
I am slowly working through the noises. I noticed that the body was rubbing on the roll bars, so I removed the bars and opened up the clearances (not it). When I push up and down on the rear of the car, I can feel and hear the 3rd member creaking and popping. I also have a similar issue with a driver side upper control arm. I attempted to clean and lubricate these joints, but could only achieve temporary relief. It may be time for joint replacement.? Has anyone else experienced similar issues? I did see where Aaron was having issues that required some bracket repositioning.
I am also slowly working on the interior. I have started on the center console patterned after Bruce's.
I WILL prevail!! I cannot let this interior stuff beat me, so I trudge on...
We completed the Console and installed the switch / Power panel. Seat Heater circuit runs inside the console, but I may still have to extend some wires to hide the connectors. I set the console aside until the carpet puzzle is completed.
Carpet is now installed in firewall, kick panels, trans and drive shaft tunnel. Modified aluminum panels under doors to conform better. I may pass on using the chrome trim at bottom of door opening and simply tuck and bond carpet at that interface. I am now laying pad on the back wall and wheel well area and am NOT looking forward to the carpet fitting around the 4 roll bar posts and weird contours. Has everyone used pad on the back wall or should I bond the carpet without the pad? How about the trunk?
That's all for now....
Jim
Jim, looking really good. The yellow is a nice touch with the black.
I know how you feel with it beating you down, I'm in the same boat with my firewall aluminum. Just have to keep plugging away.
Looks really great, Jim. I have to take my 32 project to Arkansas next week, but I need to come up and see this in person soon.
Thanks , Guys.
Larry, looks like you are making room for a cobra kit. :) Swing by anytime.
Jim, how has your clutch been? I picked up the 3/4" Miata slave today. I need to make a bracket like you did.
I also got the gates 21503 lower radiator hose, but I'm not seeing how that'll work. Do you have any pictures of your lower radiator hose if that's what you used?
I'll be fitting my radiator hose today, and plan to do a brief update. I also have the 21503 lower hose, so lets see. The manual states that for the big block, you use a certain hose along with a couple metal tubes to create the right fit.
What side is your water pump outlet? Mine is Driver side.
Yep I saw that for the big block as well and that's all the pictures show.
Drivers side outlet on my water pump as well. Hope it works out well.
No go on the radiator hose. It will be a cut and splice job. Should be able to do it with the 21503 hose, and one short piece of straight tube, I believe.
Yes, cut and splice is how I had to go. Sorry for the late response.