After 8 years of tinkering with my GenI Hurricane, I decided to jump into the deep end again. Most are aware my obsession with being period correct. Build II plans are to carry this even further.
Sit down, get an adult beverage and some popcorn and watch the fun begin
This build will again be an FE, this time i've sourced an aluminum Shelby block for my base, TrickFlow heads and Borla EightStack fuel injection. Performance Electronics ECU system. I'm runnong a very similar system in my current car and very pleased with its performance and reliability
The running gear will be a TKO600 with the Libertys Gear's upgrade and the new Hurricane '15 IRS. 15" pin drive wheels
Paul, can't wait. I have my adult beverage in hand. I'm sure it will be a first class build as usual.
Sam
Loaded the majority of the components at Lake City on June 28th. 7hr ride home and begin unloading the next morning. Local club members gave a hand with the heavy stuff. Really surprised by the quality and 'heftiness' of Hurricane over Factory Five. These guys have unloaded a number of FF Mark IV and all commented on the weight and thickness of the various pieces.
I recall building the body buck in April, 2007 (doesn't seem that long ago) and I also recall the joy I had when I tore it apart in 2010. I am so looking forward to doing this again, just not taking that long.
Used the plans from the website and all is still good. Glad this has helped other Hurricane builders. Hope more get involved in this process and we up the traffic on the forum
More to come
Paul
Awesome! How exciting. Paul, you must have the most amazing wife, or most spoiled. If I brought home a second cobra kit I'd be a dead man. Not divorced - murdered.
Maybe one day i'll upgrade to the mustang IRS, then a T-56 six speed, then the 8-Stack EFI (I already have the return fuel line in place just in case).
And I have to also thank you for the body buck drawings. I've been using it more years than I care to admit. AND I can't wait to tear it down and burn it.
Anyway, can't wait to follow your new build.
Very cool - can not wait.
Been a busy couple weeks. I'm never happy to leave things well enough alone, so I immediately started into the mods I want on this build
First project was fitting the new aluminum tank into the frame/trunk tub. This tank is tapered on the rear to remove the big chunk of aluminum hanging down below the rear valance. I also relocated the inlet pipe to make it align with the filler better and be less intrusive into the trunk area - this required a little notching/rewelding of the rear frame
Next mod was to rework the footboxes. Seems such a shame to cut up the quality fiberglass work that Hurricane does, but I wanted a more period correct look and more accurate location of the top of the boxes for clearances of the vents and wipers.
When the GenII cars were reworked, the top of the boxes was angled to make it look more correct, but in the process, they moved it up 2" closer to the fender. Gets pretty tight in there. I took 2" out of the top of the boxes (no overhead pedals, no need for the space)
It makes for a lot more user-friendly access to the #4 and #8 sparkplugs on an FE.
I plan to restore the white gel-coat for the top of the boxes and cover the vertical faces with heat shield. The face of the firewall will be covered with aluminum. I, fortunately have four original cars within 3 miles of me to check and copy.
The originals firewalls are angled at 15degrees, the Hurricane box is vertical. Still contemplating whether to incorporate this angle or not.
(that's a special valve cover I use to check oil flow on my engine. Allows me to run the motor with access to the valve train and not spray oil all over everything)
Great work as usual Paul. You always seem to come up with interesting mods. Can't wait to see what's next.
Sam
Quote from: Paul Proefrock on July 23, 2018, 09:58:12 PM
First project was fitting the new aluminum tank into the frame/trunk tub. This tank is tapered on the rear to remove the big chunk of aluminum hanging down below the rear valance. I also relocated the inlet pipe to make it align with the filler better and be less intrusive into the trunk area - this required a little notching/rewelding of the rear frame
Looks great, Paul. Is this the tank supplied by Hurricane and did you have it modified?
not to hijack your build thread, but here is what I did with my tank to hide it:
http://worleyworld.com/cobra/fuel-tank-modifications
(my build site is still very raw and incomplete. I work on it when I can)
Quote from: Bob Worley on July 25, 2018, 11:27:56 AM. . . Is this the tank supplied by Hurricane and did you have it modified? . . .
Built the tank myself. filled the side areas where you moved the angles, filled the upper area of the trunk tub, tapered the rear section. Everything I could to pick up another couple ounces of fuel
Paul, whats the latest? We are anxious to see !
Took a little sightseeing vacation (3756 miles-out for 18 days 8) ) but back on the project
1) I have fitted my car with a soft top and plan to add it to my 2nd build. The GenII cars don't have the rear cowl loop and that is needed to mount the sockets for the soft top bows. So-o-o-o, Bend some tubing and weld in place. Looks rough now, but will be added to once the body is set in place.
2) Lowered the tops of the footboxes to match that of the originals.
3) The original firewall tilts forward 15degrees. This is probably nit-picking but I added foam wedges to the firewall and then glass it over. It will get covered with aluminum
The only drawback to all this - I sure hate bondo dust ::)
4) Fitting the cockpit tube and mod's required to clear the O2 sensors that mount in the collectors. Trying to figure out the best way to mount and seal the forward part of the tub to the sheetmetal footbox floors. Don't think the thin butt joint is going to keep much out. :-\
Planning out the necessary changes, but I think I have all the basics now. Time to scuff and clean the frame in anticipation of paint. Plan to use a black 2 part epoxy so it can be touched up later.
Making progress - Body on for the first time to trim trunk and cockpit tubs and make necessary mods for firewall and hood support.
2nd shot shows mod'd firewall and footbox.
4th shot is some eye-candy for use a little further into the build.
Looking very nice Paul. That IRS is going to be sweet. I would like to hear that eight stack when you get the side oiler cranked up. Thanks for updating us on the build. Can't wait to se more.
Russ C.
Looking really good. Keep the pix coming.
Russ
Paul, your builds are always first class, interesting, and fun to watch. Can't wait for the next installment.
Sam
Paul are you going to add the steel tube that runs from atop the foot box down to the front X, I remember that Dean did that on his.
Love the eight stack always wondered what a $5,000 dollar bill looked like.
Mark
Quote from: mandmGuys on August 31, 2018, 11:55:31 AM
Paul are you going to add the steel tube that runs from atop the foot box down to the front X, I remember that Dean did that on his.
Mark
I was thinking about doing that mod, then forgot about it until you just reminded me. too late now, I guess.
Yes, the forward support tubes are one of the mod's planned. Adjusted size of gas pedal bracket accordingly and done some rough measuring. Haven't figured out how I'm going to install it yet. Ideally, it would be welded at each end but that is pretty difficult.
Paul
Cowl support tube Mod
Having built and owned a Hurricane, you get to know certain things. Anyone working on an accurate replica build goes for the cowl support tubes. Many have suggested using them to run speedo cables and wiring. Having owned one, you learn this is fine til you have to service or repair the thing.
how do I get those wires out? How come the nut on the speedo cable won't pass thru the tube with wires in it? How do I get this tube assembly I made out from under the dash so I can work on the dash.
With all this, my support tube mod uses two separate tubes, joined together with a bolt on the dash brace. Remove the bolt and each tube will come out of the car. Not sure if I'll run the speedo cable thru it - makes it very difficult to hook up to the speedometer. The threaded attachment of the speedo, the 90 degree adapter, the speedo cable - everything has to be just right and there just isn't any room to work on it. Probably will revert back to a longer cable thru the footbox or tunnel.
Regarding wiring thru the tubes, I'll probably do this, but I've learned to put bullet type wire connectors on each individual wire. There isn't room to pass a larger connector and some times it is necessary to remove them for service.
Pictures below.
Paul
ps: if you noticed the mod on the forward cowl support rod, if you are planning to run a defrost system and are using the original style heater, you need to make room for the fitting coming out of the heater box. A piece of 2x3 angle does this. You'll see pictures of the heater mount a little further down the road
Forward support tube mod
The original Shelby's had a 3/4" square tube running from the main cowl support tube to the forward suspension upright. I've added this mod to my build - details
1) the square tube is not a big deal except you have to be able to put it in after the cockpit tub is installed - now welding to the frame and birdcage - it has to be removeable. I decided to use a small bolt on the forward end, drilling and tapping the end up the upright.
2) notching the firewall, I inserted the end of the tub into that cavity, then bolt it to the footbox and upright. The drivers side includes the support bolts and spacers to the gas pedal. Passengers side will use the similar socket but with a blind stud on the bottom side into the footbox to anchor that end and the same small bolt into the upright.
3) You may notice in the pictures, I chose to lower the top of the footbox. This replicates the originals and makes it a lot easier to install the wiper motor, wiring and air vents for the footbox. I also added a 3/4" diameter tube at the front of the firewall that will accomodate the hood latch brackets. They'll be welded in place later.
Quote from: Paul Proefrock on September 18, 2018, 09:05:29 PM
Cowl support tube Mod
Having built and owned a Hurricane, you get to know certain things. Anyone working on an accurate replica build goes for the cowl support tubes. Many have suggested using them to run speedo cables and wiring. Having owned one, you learn this is fine til you have to service or repair the thing.
...
Paul,
The the dash support tubes I got from Hurricane are 1". I thought they looked "fat". I verified with a restoration specialist that yes, they are supposed to be 3/4", and the street cars had vinyl matching the dash wrapped around them.
So with me being so persnickety about originality appearance as well, it looks like I'll be making another unit. And since I have all electronic Smiths gauges, I'll be running the speedometer wires through the support tubes (no cable!), and possibly other wires, like the ignition wire to the starter solenoid and the brake pressure switch wires ( my pressure switch is very close to the front M/C).
(I KNOW electronic speedo is not "original" - I reserve the right to choose how original I want to be ! ;D )
I noticed yours is not right up against the edge of the dash - mine isn't either, although not intentional. I thought I aligned the holes in the tunnel better. Is there a reason you have it set back some?
Quote from: Paul Proefrock on September 18, 2018, 09:19:10 PM
Forward support tube mod
The original Shelby's had a 3/4" square tube running from the main cowl support tube to the forward suspension upright. I've added this mod to my build - details
1) the square tube is not a big deal except you have to be able to put it in after the cockpit tub is installed - now welding to the frame and birdcage - it has to be removeable. I decided to use a small bolt on the forward end, drilling and tapping the end up the upright.
2) notching the firewall, I inserted the end of the tub into that cavity, then bolt it to the footbox and upright. The drivers side includes the support bolts and spacers to the gas pedal. Passengers side will use the similar socket but with a blind stud on the bottom side into the footbox to anchor that end and the same small bolt into the upright.
3) You may notice in the pictures, I chose to lower the top of the footbox. This replicates the originals and makes it a lot easier to install the wiper motor, wiring and air vents for the footbox. I also added a 3/4" diameter tube at the front of the firewall that will accomodate the hood latch brackets. They'll be welded in place later.
Paul, once again you are the inspiration of greatness. I am going to try to follow your lead as well. I'm "just barely" still at a point where I can try to fit in the forward support tubes into my build. I'm right in the middle of the wiring harness at this point, and have not yet installed the inner fender liners.
since my cockpit tub is already permanently mounted, I could remove the alternator, and a few things on the other side and try to lay a weld bead on it, but I like the idea of making it optionally removable, since its only for appearance anyway. Why are you making yours removable? Also, won't the bolt you tap into the front hit the upper suspension mount bolt that goes through the upright?
Last question: I notice in all your pictures all your frame and birdcage are bare metal. I'm assuming once you fabricate and fit everything then you will disassemble it all and paint or powder coat?
My current situation as of TONIGHT:
Quote from: Bob Worley on September 19, 2018, 09:09:32 PM
. . . Is there a reason you have it set back some?
Bob
On the original frames, the cowl support tubes run from the main 4" tubes, up (at a 3 degree angle) to the main cowl hoop (which is approximately the same center as the uprights on our birdcages. The top of the dash is about 1/2" behind this point, and slopes about 10 degrees. The result is the tubes miss the bottom of the dash by about 2-3 inches.
I don't think there is a specific reason why it is like this, just the way they were built.
Paul
Quote from: Bob Worley on September 19, 2018, 09:29:39 PM. . . Last question: I notice in all your pictures all your frame and birdcage are bare metal. I'm assuming once you fabricate and fit everything then you will disassemble it all and paint or powder coat?
. . .
I took the frames unpainted since I planned a number of mod's and didn't want to have to patch powdercoat.
I am making the small support tubes removeable since I wanted to fit them before the car was completed and need to remove the cockpit tub numerous times. If you were doing it after the tub were mounted, you could weld the tube but then you'd have to patch the paint. Not a perfect solution, either way
Paul
Finally ! :) We're able to start putting things together. Between some health issues, the holidays and some really 'sucky' weather, have fallen a little behind schedule. Feels good to see a finished painted frame and pieces starting to go together. I chose to take the frame 'unfinished' so I could do my modifications, then painted it using epoxy frame paint. Prepping and painting is really a big job and a royal pain!
Maybe now I can post more frequently.
Shots of the IRS frame and differential, going into the frame.
Forgot to add an important detail - the heart of the build moved home last week, is now sitting in the corner, waiting to be installed in its new home:
- Shelby Aluminum 427 Side Oiler block -468 cubic inch
- Scat 4-1/8" stroker kit
- TrickFlow ported aluminum heads
- Moderate hydraulic roller cam and valve train
- Borla EightStack fuel injection system
- Holley Dual Sync Distributor
- Performance Electronics ECU, injection & ignition control
My goal was a mild mannered big block with more emphasis on reliability rather than crazy horsepower. As it turns out, the pieces came together and easily produce 600 hp without any effort.
This ought to be fun 8)
Yahoo!!! Nice to see progress again Paul. Looking really good. That engine is sweet!!
Russ
Looking great as usual Paul. That engine is a work of art. You should mount it in your living room and build another one for the car! When is the next installment? Can't wait.
Sam
Awesomeness! This is going to be one amazing build, hope to see it in person one day - !
Paul, looks great and what a great choice for the motor!
Curious, what paint did you use for the frame?
Matt
Quote from: MFE III on February 05, 2019, 11:09:29 AM. . . Curious, what paint did you use for the frame? . . .
Matt,
I used Summit Racing, two part epoxy black. Kind of messy but really a tough coating. And it can be patched if needed.
Paul
Been a while since I posted an update. While the guys are playing in Texas at the spring meet, I'm making a little progress
Impressive as usual. Waiting for the next update.
Sam
Only with Hurricane:
2015 Mustang IRS - 15" Pin Drive wheels, Wilwood brakes and a working emergency brake. It gets pretty crowded, but it works
Picture of IRS from front, with plumbing and electrical fitting in
Picture of eBrake handle mod: Using period correct handle, position and angle.
Paul, A couple of questions:
1. what 5-pin wheels/adapters are you using?
2. do you plan to keep the wilwood cluch/brake pedals or make your own OEM appearance ones?
Bobby
the wheels are Vintage Wheels and adapters.
Yes, I've already converted the pedals. Look closely at the first picture, the one showing the engine in the frame, you can see the back of the pedals with the AC pedal attached.
I'll shoot and post a picture from the front tomorrow
Paul
Picture of the AC pedals mounted to the Wilwood pedals
I love that dropped footbox design of the Gen II cars!
Building a Shelby teaches one a new skill set - How to Stuff 10lbs into a 5lb bag :P
Jason worked with me to develop a set of headers that would clear my modified footbox & steering setup. The lower part of the outside of the footbox gets crowded with brakelines and clutch lines.
Used a Mazda slave cylinder and made a bracket to mount it to the Shelby block and align with the clutch fork. Had to 'reverse' mount it so the bleed port would be in the correct orientation.
Not all share my enthusiasm over this, but the building portion really is fun :) Each day presents a new challenge and a test to my skills.
Motor and transmission in place. Driveshaft ordered - 12" is that a driveshaft or a coupling? The driveshaft loop mounts on the rear X Frame bolts. Came from Summit Racing. I chose to weld it together rather than use all the bolts that came with it. Just looks a little cleaner.
Now that test fitting is done, I can mount the cockpit tub
Paul
Looking really good. Yep, I enjoyed most the build, modification, design, etc.
Russ
Paul, it looks like you are using the old slip on style headers or are you going to mod these as well?
Sam
Quote from: s_reynolds on April 20, 2019, 09:45:44 AM
Paul, it looks like you are using the old slip on style headers or are you going to mod these as well?
The purist in me called for the slip joint style. Flanges belong on Factory Five's, Hurricane is more period correct.
Trying to convince Alec and Jason to use slipjoints again. The flanges only make for more work and clearance issues.
Paul
What sort of ground clearance are you expecting with that oil pan?
Quote from: Paul Proefrock on April 19, 2019, 08:05:46 PM
Building a Shelby teaches one a new skill set - How to Stuff 10lbs into a 5lb bag :P
Motor and transmission in place.
Pan sits at about 4" as I recall. Knock on wood, my current car is the same and I have about 24k miles on it
Paul
Wow, I had no idea you were back at it. Congratulations and have fun!
Charley Fuchs
HM1107 (at one point in time)
Owning a Hurricane and knowing its ideosyncracies, I new there were a few things I wanted to change. The X frame helps in the transmission removal, but there are still a few problems - like the shifter hole and stuff just not clearing. I studied a buddies ERA build and saw they had a removable transmission tunnel. Like the original cars had. So I planned a removable tunnel, but as I got into it, I saw it wouldn't take a whole lot more to make the configuration like the original CSX cars.
Very pleased with the results
Putting together all the little pieces to check fit before I coat and mount the tubs. I think we're there
Paul, great work as usual. I assume you fabbed the aluminum dash as well.
Sam
Sam
I've taught myself how to form and stretch aluminum. Really makes for a better unit
Paul
Dang it, Paul! Why couldn't you have started this new build sooner, like two years ago, before I got this far on my build (HM2008). You've shared so many good ideas I've incorporated into mine, and here are more than I'm too late for: longer lokar hand brake, removable transmission tunnel, aluminum dashboard. I've had plenty of headaches trying to get my dashboard to fit, this might be something I can replace down the road.
BTW why did you go with a street car dash layout?
Bobby,
I replaced the fiberglass dash on my current car with an aluminum one, after the car was finished. Pretty easy to do.
I am hung up on Period Correct and wanted a glove box. My current car, I put one in and used the Comp Layout. Figured if I was going to do it, I should do it correctly.
Paul
Any reason for an alum dash other than originality?
Been some time since I was at that stage, but I don't recall any dash fitment issues.
Quote from: MFE III on May 07, 2019, 05:39:12 PM
Any reason for an alum dash other than originality?
Been some time since I was at that stage, but I don't recall any dash fitment issues.
Matt
Main reason was to get the rolled edges around the steering shaft and the glove box opening. Had a glovebox on my fiberglass dash and it just didn't look right.
Paul
Ahh, I understand.
Thanks
Paul, Whats the latest on your build?! Inquiring minds want to know ....
Bobby
Going to make things difficult for you - I am working on a realistic hood. I've picked up a hood skin from Hurricane and in the process of mounting it to a metal tube frame - ala-original style.
I have the skin trimmed, the metal frame is formed and tacked together. Waiting for some adhesive to arrive so I can mount it.
Nice!!!
Quote from: Paul Proefrock on August 01, 2019, 08:14:24 PM
Bobby
Going to make things difficult for you - I am working on a realistic hood. I've picked up a hood skin from Hurricane and in the process of mounting it to a metal tube frame - ala-original style.
I have the skin trimmed, the metal frame is formed and tacked together. Waiting for some adhesive to arrive so I can mount it.
OH PAUL, your'e killin' me ....
I'll have to find some old pictures. About 10 years ago, there was a Hurricane cobra that came to the Texas Cobra Meet from Mexico, it was solid red. And he had authentic aluminum-skinned hood, doors and trunk. It was awesome! and looked very real and original. If I had it to do all over again .... (the wife would KILL me is what)
bob
As usual Paul, great work.
Sam
Really nice! Are doors and trunk next?
Frame & hinges done, next is the latch system. I've already installed a hoop and latch brackets under the cowl
Paul, looks good. The hood support rod looks rather long. Is that a temporary rod or just the angle of the pic that makes it look too long?
Sam
Sam,
The rod is long, will cut off once everything is done. It's also an optical illusion
Paul
How's it coming along, Paul? We need an update!
Up to my ears in wiring.
1) Moved the Fusepanel to the passenger footbox
2) ECU mounted in same area
3) Concentrated on dash connections so I can remove dash and just 'unplug'. Who would have ever thought there are 39 connections to the dash
Holy cow Paul. Glad you're figuring all that wiring out. Wiring is not one of my talents. I like the idea if being able to unplug the dash if needed. Next installment?
Sam
Most of you know of my hangup on being period correct. Pulled together my firewall pieces and wiring
Let's see, 1965 427 Cobra's had an idle air control, didn't they? (that's the little filter element you see in the background)
Paul
Getting Closer to finishing wiring. Footbox cover panel will get carpeting on it. Tunnel firewall enclosure gets vinyl dash material
Yes, I did modify the cockpit tub and replaced the tunnel with a removable aluminum one.
Looking really good Paul. Keep up the excellent work.
Russ
Love it !!
Awesome build Paul. Can't wait to see the next installment.
Sam
Interesting placement of all the modern day electronics in the passenger foot box!
As always, very nice work!
Looks Great!
I wish I would have mounted my electronics the way you did - then I would have the room for this -
https://www.ebay.com/itm/06-11-NISSAN-VERSA-ELECTRIC-POWER-STEERING-EPS-PARTS-INCLUDES-MODULE-PIGTAILS/402049869631?hash=item5d9c0a273f:g:FYwAAOSwoDVeLZ4V
without needing to move anything.
Have you looked into these EPAS units? They sell them new too but the price to go used is about 10th of new.
I didn't mind the manual steering at first but I guess I'm getting old...
Nick
That was one of the motivating factors to do it. On my first build, I had the ECU mounted upside down on the top of the footbox and every time I wanted to do something on it, I had to lay on my back. Getting too old for that.
I have a buddy who put the EPAS on his Factory Five and he gave me a unit with all the pieces. It's laying on the footbox right now to see if its worth the issues to put it in. I want to hide it so I maintain the originality, plus there's no room in the engine bay for it - too full of motor ;D
I'll keep you informed
Paul
Paul,
I'm seriously looking at adding EPAS under the dash too - you're correct there's no room under the hood! Please Post if you do decide to add it under the dash. I would love to see how you attach it to the frame and how you clock it to be hidden - I agree I don't want to see it either. The reason I was on the forum yesterday was to see if anyone had pics with the dash removed to see if it looked like there is room. You're lucky in that you have the brake and clutch peddles coming from the floor - mine are old style and hang from under the dash.
Can you tell me what EPAS you have? I see they also have kits available for the EPAS to add the speed sensor so it will adjust the assist according to speed vs. the potentiometer.
Okay, i'll ask: what is "EPAS" ?
Here ya go...Electric power assisted steering
Quote from: Bob Worley on February 07, 2020, 06:41:07 PM
Okay, i'll ask: what is "EPAS" ?
One of the biggest hangups I have on being 'period correct' is when you open the hood, it is obvious a fiberglass car, due to the configuration of the underside of the hood. I took this away by building a replica hood frame, then mounted the skin to it, same as the originals. Only difference is the skin is fiberglass instead of aluminum. Now just need to finish the fiberglass and trim to fit.
Paul, great work as usual. What's next?
Paul, there was a guy from Mexico that brought a Hurricane to our Texas Cobra Meet years ago, before I ordered my cobra from Hurricane, so it was maybe 10 years ago. He went a step further and had actual aluminum hood, trunk and doors, with the edges rolled over the tube frame EXACTLY like the originals. It looked amazing. I've thought of going with that at some point down the road.
Bobby
That was Alfredo Canalizo, built HM1045. This is a link to pictures of the car and the sheetmetal parts. I just noticed he didn't remove the corners in the hood opening, but modified the tubes to fit around it. Strange to go to this much work and not correct that obvious non-accurate item.
http://forum.hurricane-motorsports.com/forum/index.php?topic=1786.0 (http://forum.hurricane-motorsports.com/forum/index.php?topic=1786.0)
Paul
Paul, any updates on your build. Is it done yet? Just kidding on the last.
Making Bondo dust - almost ready for paint
This is the favored part of the build - NOT
Did your windshield crack on you and what happened to your wind wing? Looks like your using a mesh screen on the side vent.
Looking good. Thanks for the update. What are your colors going to be?
Hi Paul. Super cool build you have going. Original details are so nicely done. That Shelby FE engine is over the top. Been fun to see this and your other car builds. Btw are you still offering parts on your website? I see a few things i need if you are. Thanks, Glenn
Greg - Yes, the windshield was a casualty. Having to tap the center mounting holes, I touched the glass with the tap and %$#^%*. The windwing was a broken one I was using to verify clearances. The side louvers are the normal ones. Probably just an optical illusion
Sam: Thinking Candy Apple Red with a ghost stripe
Glenn: Yes, my website is open and I've added a lot of items to it. Take a look at www.prdcrrct.com
Paul
Thanks Paul. Once the kit gets here and sorted out I'll be in touch.
Moving car from shop to bodyshop, starting the paint finishing process. Took a little longer than planned but she's on her feet now. From the beginning, I believed that details matter. Like having a full wrap around the header pipe outlet, or an accurate firewall/footbox
Paul
ps: don't know why the first thumbnail is upside down.
Really nice Paul. I like the wrap around. Many kits overlook that to make the body slip on easier. What color are you going with? Stripes? Congrats it's looking great!
Can't wait to see the paint job. Great work as usual.
Couple weeks late in posting, but starting to get excited. Found the formula for the paint color - not an easy task as it is a proprietary color. Saleen LizStick Red
That's a cool color. Had to look it up. Will be nice for sure.
Update: Bodywork finished, car primed, ready to start applying some color. A few more details on my site: https://65shlb.com/time-for-color/
(https://65shlb.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/20210317_141222.jpg)
Looks awesome, Paul! I'd like to see more detail about how you corrected and rolled the front fender edges. that's the one thing about our bodies I think needs some correction.
Looks really good Paul!!! Keep us posted on progress.
Russ
Looking good as usual Paul.
Very nice Paul. First class job on everything! Hope mine comes out half as nice.
Quote from: Bob Worley on March 22, 2021, 09:48:45 PM
. . . like to see more detail about how you corrected and rolled the front fender edges. that's the one thing about our bodies I think needs some correction.
Bobby
I modified my first car, after it was painted since the flares looked so bad. Spent a little more time on this one to get them closer. I rolled the edge all the way around the car except for the side panels where they wrap under the footbox/seat platform. About 24' worth of fiberglass work. Ugh!
This sketch shows it in a very simple form. I had to build up the inner edge and then grind it round so it looks like a sheet of aluminum wrapped around a solid wire filler. The body is about 3/16" thick and I added about 1/8-3/16" then ground it to be round. The hardest part is getting the square inner edge so it doesn't feel like just a blob of fiberglass. Mine feels like the panel actually ends there.
To make it a little simpler, I made some fixtures that bolted to my RotoZip tool so I could route the shape once the fiberglass had hardened.
On my first car, it cost me a couple thousand to touch up the paint but I was very pleased with the results.
Paul
Just another masterful attention to detail.
Big day today, we got to see partially completed paint job. Clear applied but hasn't been sanded & polished yet
Very Nice Paul. Very different from the preview we got last night.
Going to be spectacular!! Getting close to the finish line.
Nice! Thats a bad ass orange! I like the subdued strips :)
Real nice color Paul. Bet it pops in the sun.
Looking awesome!
looking good!
things moving along nicely, beginning to look like a finished car.
I've added details about the rollbar strut fairing on my website. Tends to clean things up quite a bit
Headers & Sidepipes installed. You'll note I went with slipjoints rather than the flanges.
Oil Cooler, shrouds, aluminum and hoses installed
Well as usual it is looking good Paul. Can't wait for more pics. Will check your website since I haven't in awhile.
Looking good Paul, like color and detail!!
The GenII Hurricanes have a bent bar the holds the door latch, they refer to it as the 'banana bar' Works OK but it does leave a very ugly footprint in the wheel well. I used some foam to fill in around it then covered with fiberglass. It turned out OK but not sure I'm going to like it. There isn't a simple way to hide it and if you're hung up on originality, it really gets in the way.
The flange of the bar sticks out about 1-1/4". Cut it off and you lose rigidity of the door latch. Sure wish they had put it to the inside where it could be buried in the space that gets covered with carpet.
Open to other ideas
ps; the black tube in the top picture is a support tube I added. It was on the GenI cars and serves to mount the soft top
pps; sorry, the forum software doesn't understand photo orientation. It opens to the correct image.
Finished product looks good in my opinion.
Thats definitely an improvement, Paul. Thats the one unfinished area of my build that needs some attention at some point.
Down on the ground, taking it out for clear wrap on the nose, spats and behind the wheels
Quote from: Paul Proefrock on August 31, 2021, 07:53:03 PM
Down on the ground, taking it out for clear wrap on the nose, spats and behind the wheels
VERY nice! :)
Looks great. Was getting anxious for an update.
Stunning!!
VIN has been assigned by Missouri DMV. Car is really wanting to get out and run
Nice job...is it you or the car that really wants to get out 8)
Paul, the detail is just amazing, all the small little touches really makes the difference. The front fender edge looks brilliant, the windshield truss bar, the hood rivets, Lucas Tri-bar headlights, paint matched side air vents, ferrules on the doors for side curtains, ferrules for soft top frame behind the seats, and .... is that a street-car ashtray in front of the shifter?!
this will, no doubt, be the highest quality Hurricane build yet, IMO ... inspires me to get back and do some refining, finishing touches on my beast.
Paul, thanks for the update. I was thinking last night to bump you for an update. You must have sensed it. As Bob said it is fantastic. What color are the seats and interior? You sure have set the bench mark pretty high!!
That's just beautiful!
Very nice Paul. Love the body header exit as the original had. Great details all around. Enjoy!!
Winter has allowed me to catch up on some of the details that weren't crucial to getting the car on the road - but are important to a finished build.
Door cards and hinge covers and a nearly finished interior.
Quote from: Paul Proefrock on March 15, 2022, 08:15:02 PM
Winter has allowed me to catch up on some of the details that weren't crucial to getting the car on the road - but are important to a finished build.
Door cards and hinge covers and a nearly finished interior.
Looks great, Paul! Will you be selling the door hinge covers? I'm interested...
Looks spectacular Paul.
Quote from: Bob Worley on March 16, 2022, 08:17:26 AM
[ . . . Will you be selling the door hinge covers? I'm interested...
Bobby,
I could pull a set for you the next time I do some vacuum forming, but it depends if your hinges are the same size as mine. I got the parts from Hurricane but welded them myself.
Measure the outside to outside of the two straps and give me a dimension to determine if the mold will work with yours.
Paul