What is the going recommendation for the battery cables, crimp or solder the ends on?
I soldered mine using a propane torch. Small piece of insulation on the bare wire as the heat will melt back the insulation before covering with heat shrink tubing. You will have no problem with soldered connections.
If you have the crimping tool that will make the correct crimp for the size connector and wire you are using, that will work as well. Most people don't have the tool or dies to do it correctly.
I also soldered all of my butt connectors for the main wiring as well and covered with heat shrink. If you crimp the connectors, I would recommend a crimp tool that dimples the connector/wire. I've had issues with the ones that just smash the connector with the wires pulling out if you wiggle them.
Russ
Soldered my battery cable as well. Also, crimped and soldered the connectors in the wiring harness.
Sam
Ditto What Sam and Russ did. The solder absorbed into the battery cable nicely with a propane torch. I also crimped, soldered and shrink wrapped every connector and splice.
My one electrical "woulda done it differently" suggestion . . . In wiring behind the dash, I went for tidiness by keeping wires only as long as necessary and all snugly zip tied. If I were to do it over, I would have left more slack in the wiring. I've had to do some behind the dash electrical work that was made more difficult by not having some extra slack in the wiring. The tidiness looked great when I was wiring with the body off, but now you can't see it and it's just more difficult.
My 2 centavos
Matt
To add what Matt said regarding dash wiring, I fully agree with what he says. I also added Molex connectors to the dash wiring so I could remove the dash assembly with gauges, switches, etc. intact. The primary purpose was I didn't want the body shop to screw up the gauges and such with their sanding dust or overspray. But, if I ever need to get to the wiring behind the dash, I can get to it without laying upside down on my back. I'm too old for that. Made sure all fuses, relays, ignition module, etc. were accessible from the bottom. Had to remove the top lip from the dash fiberglass so it would slide down. Have to take the steering boss out and shaft so the dash will slide down. Have to be careful with the capillary tubes/bulbs for the oil and water temp gauges when pulling the dash.
Yeah, we recognize centavos around here too although 2 of them don't buy you much.
Russ