Well, this will officially be the start of my Hurricane 427 build thread. I recieved some pictures from the Hurricane boys in Lake City showing their progress on my frame and body build. I thought I would post them here for your viewing pleasure. The first photo is of the frame in the jig during the welding process. This is a really cool shot of both the jig and the frame together. The jig is a really nice set up that produces an accurate, strong frame in the hands of a skilled welder (Jason Kruse ;D). They also sent me a picture of the car body after it had been pulled from the mold. One thing that I really appreciate about the Hurricane body is the location of the mold lines. They are in very inconspicuous places which should make finishing the body a lot easier than many of the other kits that are currently on the market. One of the things that has always impressed me with Hurricane is the absolute superior quality of their fiberglass. The guys at Bowie Intl/Porta Vet work with fiberglass all day long (building high end portable veterinarian clinics for the back of F-250's and the like) and since Hurricane is housed in that factory you get the same talent building your fiberglass cobra body by hand. I haven't seen anything better in the cobra kit car market.
My build plan is as follows:
Hurricane 427
Either Smeding Performance or Mike Forte Dart 427
Tremec TKO 600 w/.64 OD
3.50 Ford 9" rear end
Nitto 555G2's w/17" Halibrand style Vintage Wheels
Aluminum firewall option
Dual chrome roll bars, one for my honey
Jet silver ceramic side pipes and headers
Midnight Blue/white rally stripes (subject to change)
Lots of questions posted to this site😜
Congratulations.....the build has started!!
Sam
Congrats on the build. Keep us posted.
Russ
Looking forward to your build, Aaron!
Congratulations and I look forward to following your build. A couple of observartions:
1. I think Smeding and Forte are both good choices. I have the Smeding 427 W and am very pleased. I have also dealt with Mike Forte and if you can get by his whining about his divorce and x-wife, he is very good to deal with ;) Maybe you can play one off the other to negotiate the warranty starting from when you first fire the motor and not purchase date. When I bought my motor, it was a 24 month warranty (now I see it is 36 months) and my warranty was half over before I first fired it.
2. There is lots of good information and debate out there on the .64 or .82 OD ratios. Some have said that the .64 is a little awkward for street driving; a big step between 4th and 5th and not really usable much below 70 mph. I went with the .82 and am pleased. I am running the same rear gears and tires as you are planning and 5th is very usable. At 80 I'm taching about 2,900.
Good luck and looking forward to your build.
Got the call from Jason the other day. The car is ready to be built to Stage 1. I upgraded to the stage one build level and asked the Hurricane boys if I could come down to Iowa and help them assemble it to that level. They readily agreed and I am headed down Father's Day weekend with my boys. I'll make sure and post some pictures on here of the assembly. We're getting close!!
Fun times! Looking forward to more pics and updates!
Looking forward to the next pics. Enjoy the experience!!
Sam
So, do you get to bring it home with you?
A-N-T-I-C-I-P-A-T-I-O-N
:D
Paul,
Not quite yet. We are going to have it to a roller stage, then Jason is going to fit the body so he can weld/assemble the door hinges for proper fit and do final prep. Should take a couple of weeks then I'll be back down to pick her up and bring her home!! My poor VW is going to have to sit outside for awhile!!
On another note, I have really been doing a lot of thinking (playing with the Tremec gear ratio calculator) and I believe I may switch from a .64OD trans to a .82OD version. I'm running the 3.50 rear end gears with 315/35r17's and it just looks like it's going to be more usable. I'm not planning on driving this much over 75 on the highway anyway, mostly around town and back roads cruising.
good choice on the OD ratio. I think you will be much happier
We finally got to start our project on June 18, 2016. My dad, Rick, along with my sons Levi (9) and Chase (7) made the journey with me to meet Jason on a Saturday at Hurricane and begin wrenching on our future hot rod. It was a boiling hot, humid and breezeless but beautifully sunny and clear day as we began our adventure in the cool little town of Lake City, IA.
What a blast. Jason was very welcoming and a lot of fun to work with. I can't speak enough of how great the Hurricane guys are to work with. Before you buy one of these kit cars...really research the company and product. Speak with owners, visit the companies. I'm glad I did, and I'm glad I went with Hurricane.
First order of business was to run a tap through the lower control arms to make sure the Heim joints threaded on without any issues.
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/DSC_0033_1.jpg)
Next order of business...The rear end differential. This is a really high quality, new Ford 9" unit with 3.50 gears that Hurricane provides.
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/DSC_0039_1.jpg)
We found it easiest to park the rear on a set of simple sawhorses to assemble. It worked fine for us but if you are working alone a flat workbench may work better.
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/DSC_0041_1.jpg)
Install the gasket.
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/DSC_0042_2.jpg)
Install the differential utilizing popeye type forearms...
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/DSC_0044_1.jpg)
A little gentle persuasion helps move the differential into place.
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/DSC_0045_1.jpg)
Torqueing diff. We started at 25 ft/lbs and then went around again at 45 ft/lbs.
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/DSC_0047.jpg)
Starting out is fun time - Looks like a Fathers day for the books - there will be more to come.
Congratulations
Mark
Next step were the rear brakes and axle installation. I opted for the standard brakes for budgeting purposes. Brakes can always be upgraded and these will be, just not now.
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/DSC_0049_2.jpg)
The next step we found to be absolutely necessary. The rear brake backing plate and brake shield both needed to be enlarged to get them to fit over the rear axle bearing. So we took a carbide tip in a dremel tool and rounded them out. After this step was complete, the brakes fit like they should. Since we had little ears and eyes watching us there was a lot of "what the heck's" and "my goodness" as opposed to other "colorful" adjectives describing frustration. ;D
Another thing we did was install the right brake on the left side and the left brake on the right side. We did this to allow the calipers to be placed in the forward position allowing for easier routing of the parking brake cable and more room between the bleeder screw and the shock absorber.
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/DSC_0056.jpg)
Axles go in with a slight love tap using a 2x4 and a hammer, line up the T-bolts with the hole in the axle and install your nylock nuts and torque as specified.
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/DSC_0061_2.jpg)
Get help from a buddy, use a floor jack and lift the rear end into place.
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/DSC_0067_1.jpg)
Installed shock absorber and brake. You can see the orientation of the brake with the caliper forward. An interesting note on the QA1 shocks. They recommend using anti-seize compound on the beautiful finish to prevent galling...which will void the warranty (galling, not anti-seize) on the shock. Strange to put the silver goop on such a beautiful finish. You'd think QA1 would have their own lube for that, but we did it anyhow in very conservative amounts...and it still looks great.
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/DSC_0073.jpg)
Installing rear caliper slide pins with help from my dewds...
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/image_5.jpeg)
After the rear brakes and rear end were hanging, we just had to do this for fun...
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/image_16.jpeg)
Here is a pic of Chase installing the upper control arms.
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/image_4.jpeg)
Levi doing his part on the other side...
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/image_13.jpeg)
We actually ran into a fit problem with the supplied upper and lower ball joints. I'll try to get some pics of that as well but I don't have them posted to photobucket yet. We had to stop at the front end because Jason was not satisfied with the fit of the ball joints. Apparantly they have had some difficulty with the All-Star Racing brand and Jason was told by their supplier that the parts problems had been fixed, apparently not, because we couldn't get them to go in straight. So, Jason is ordering all Moog upper and lower ball joints to rectify the problem. Gotta love the customer service.
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/DSC_0078.jpg)
Here are the new Vintage Wheels that I ordered for the car. Hurricane went through and performed a bunch of measurements on the backspacing of the wheels because I wanted to push the wheel out to fill up the wheel well a bit better. After a bunch of painstaking measurements, they were able to push the rear wheel out 1/4 inch further without any frame/body contact anywhere in the suspension travel cycle. I think this will make the car look a bit beefier.
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/image_8.jpeg)
Obligatory motor sounds and facial expressions...
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/image_15.jpeg)
Found our body hiding in the Hurricane secret hallway...
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/image_2.jpeg)
Fun times! What great family memories y'all are making - keep the updates coming ;)
Yep, what a fun family experience. Keep the updates coming.
Russ
Well, nothing like getting this party started by building a body buck. I had previously contacted Paul P. and had him send me the plans for a rolling body buck, which he did. I really debated whether I wanted to hang the body from the ceiling or put it on a rolling buck. Hopefully, the body is only going to be on the buck for a a short period so I opted for the rolling buck. Only about a hundred bucks in lumber and screws vs. several hundred in winch or block and tackle/cabling. The buck can be repurposed into shelving as well.
So I carefully measured the board out to match the contours of the Hurricane and I am glad to say that Pauls plans are right on.
The boys and I getting started:
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/Mobile%20Uploads/image_6.jpeg)
Project completed:
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/Mobile%20Uploads/image_7.jpeg)
Tucked into the garage over the car. The rear wheels are fixed and the front pivot and have brakes. It makes it easy to slide in and out of the garage. This is our one car garage, our garage has a two plus car garage 90 degrees (L-shaped) to this one. So in addition to storing the body the buck will keep the foot traffic coming in and out of the house from banging up my project. Overall, this was a fun project. Thanks Paul!
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/Mobile%20Uploads/image_8.jpeg)
Nice going. Nice to have some helpers too. You will really appreciate being able to move the body out of the way to work on the chassis.
Russ
I just wanted to point out that the body goes on top of the buck, not under it :P
Quote from: Bob Worley on September 07, 2016, 08:40:01 AM
I just wanted to point out that the body goes on top of the buck, not under it :P
HA! No wonder I cut all those fancy curves it the wood!
Seriously tho, My neighbors thought I was building a bunk bed. It managed to draw three of them over to see what the heck I was building.
I'm waiting till I have the necessary man power to get the body off...hopefully this weekend!
Now the fun begins. Congratulations you now have a Cobra!!!
Mark
I thought I would update this thread for those following. I had a few friends over to the house a while back to talk cars, get me motivated to build and to show off their cobras. Several people from the neighborhood excitedly showed up wondering what all the cool cars were doing at my house. We had two Factory Five MK4's and one Gen 1 Hurricane 427.
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_3721.jpg)
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_3720.jpg)
Starting in the middle and going clockwise that is Levi (my middle son), Dan Emberly (Hurricane owner), Craig Miller (Black FFR), Mike Monear (Copper FFR), my dad (Rick), and yours truly...the chiropractor getting ready to throw out his back.
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_3725.jpg)
The body comes off real easy. Just have two people pull out along the rockers, lift straight up on the front and push it back. Make sure you have someone on the back so the body doesn't slide off and land on its butt.
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_3727.jpg)
Up onto the buck...man I should have made this thing shorter, or height adjustable. Its a good thing the body will be up there for awhile.
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_3754.jpg)
All done!
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_3766.jpg)
I actually decided, after much discussion with current builders and with Jason (lead builder) not to cut the windshield post holes or roll bar holes out until the end of the build. The purpose of this was to eliminate the possibility that anything during the build could interfere with the body causing the holes to need to be moved during final fitting.
Getting started I discovered I had a warped rear brake rotor dust shield. The rotor was making contact with the brake shield and making a nice squealing noise when I moved the car. A quick call to Hurricane and Jason had a new brake rotor dust shield/e-brake setup on my front door step. I pulled the axle out and replaced the shield with the new one. Here is a pic of the bent one. We are not sure how in the world that thing bent...if it was a forging issue or assembly issue. But you can clearly see how the forward e-brake shoe is pushed out...
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_3868.jpg)
After all the suspension components are installed (rear axle, coil overs, steering rack, lower control arms, rear and front brakes) the next order of business is to plumb the brake system. The manual has you start with the rear brakes first. Because my car has a 9" Ford Live axle the rear brake plumbing consists of flexible stainless lines connected to solid lines that follow the shape of the differential up to an inversion T installed on the top of the differential.
First of all, I've never seen a banjo or banjo bolts before. The only banjo I knew of was the musical instruments. The kit includes (4) 15" stainless flexible brake lines. Two of them are packaged individually and have straight ends and two of them are in a GM metric kit and have a 90 degree fitting on one end. (All Allstar Performance brand...good stuff). I was confused because the manual calls for the 90 degree fitting to be on the front brakes and the straight fitting on the rear brakes but the banjo from the front brake kit (the GM Metric kit) only screwed into the rear caliper...like this:
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_4020.jpg)
So I immediately emailed Jason and as soon as I emailed him I realized my error. He emailed me back right away with a very tactful email and a wonderful diagram of how they are SUPPOSED to be assembled. I had emailed him back while he was emailing me saying it would help if I assembled it properly to begin with. It was worth a laugh.
Here are the parts needed for the rear brake line plumbing:
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_4023.jpg)
First order of business was to bend the straight brake line to match the one that comes pre-bent from Hurricane. This was easily accomplished using a tubing bender and my thumbs. Once the lines are in you have to work them a bit anyways to get them to fit so don't try to make perfect bends here.
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_4024.jpg)
Here is the banjo and banjo bolt installed CORRECTLY in the rear brake caliper:
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_4026.jpg)
Here is the 15" flexible brake hose installed from the banjo to the adapter. Hurricane kindly welds the brackets for these on the live axle before they paint the frame and axle:
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_4027.jpg)
For those who may be curious, here is the configuration of the adaptor and retainer that converts the brake lines from flexible to solid:
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_4028.jpg)
Here is the hard brake line installed:
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_4030.jpg)
I was curious about where the Earls Performance caliper adaptor went. I found it in my kit and a quick call to Jason made me realize that it goes in the "T" on top of the differential. It is for attaching the 21" flexible brake hose line form the rear diff to the drivers side frame rail.
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_4035.jpg)
Here it is, all plumbed up:
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_4036.jpg)
Looking good! Keep the pics coming.
Sam
Hi Aaron, nice to see you're well underway. One other thing to consider holding off cutting as long as possible is an trimming you need to do to fine tune the side pipe openings. I ended up taking off more off than I needed to, which I realized once I got the body installed for the last time with the panels all gapped. My car was already painted, so it limited what I could do to rectify at that point. It didn't help that one of my headers was so far off that the side pipe was angled 6 inches off parallel from the frame. I assume the Lake City cars are a bit more consistent, but the Gen I cars were notorious for fit issues getting the body squared up correctly. That's probably true of all component cars (FFR is famous for poorly made body panels). It's a balancing act because you want to install the side pipes to get an idea how square everything is, but the closer you are to the final body install with panels gapped the better.
Quote from: Dan on October 24, 2016, 12:47:33 PM
Hi Aaron, nice to see you're well underway. One other thing to consider holding off cutting as long as possible is an trimming you need to do to fine tune the side pipe openings. I ended up taking off more off than I needed to, which I realized once I got the body installed for the last time with the panels all gapped. My car was already painted, so it limited what I could do to rectify at that point. It didn't help that one of my headers was so far off that the side pipe was angled 6 inches off parallel from the frame. I assume the Lake City cars are a bit more consistent, but the Gen I cars were notorious for fit issues getting the body squared up correctly. That's probably true of all component cars (FFR is famous for poorly made body panels). It's a balancing act because you want to install the side pipes to get an idea how square everything is, but the closer you are to the final body install with panels gapped the better.
Thanks for the advice Dan. I am going to wait until final fitting to cut anything. I have seen enough people who have had difficulty with hole alignment that even though it is not fun to pull the body on and off, I'm going to do it because I like fiberglass work even less. ;D
I wasn't at all comfortable with the "T" located on the top of the differential. It looked like it would slam into the trunk floor if the differential moved all the way up in its suspension travel. So I experimented with some different locations on the differential cover as well as different types of flexible brake lines to run to the chase hard line. The following pictures represent what is hopefully the final set up. i routed the flexible brake line over the rear tunnel braces. I am not sure if this is OK so I thought I would get your thoughts prior to clamping the hose to the cross brace. The axle is fully suspended off the ground so I am thinking the axle is as far down as it will travel so it should be fine...thoughts?
This is a view from the rear:
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/IMG_4578.jpg)
Here is a view from the front:
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/IMG_4573.jpg)
Here is another view:
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/IMG_4572.jpg)
Looks good.
Mark
On advice from some other builders, I removed the calipers and painted them with some high temp engine paint. I went down to the local NAPA parts store and picked the paint up for 10 bucks. It was easy to do and I was very happy with the results:
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/IMG_4224_1.jpg)
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/IMG_4223_1.jpg)
Here is a picture of the front caliper mounting brackets installed for reference, this is the bracket that holds the front caliper on the spindle:
From the the rear of the car:
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/IMG_4212_1.jpg)
From the front of the car:
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/IMG_4213_1.jpg)
Next step was to install the fuel line. I have a 607hp and 585 ft/lb 427w with a Quick Fuel carb and a mechanical fuel pump that is going to be pushing this thing down the road. Its a beast. I was a little worried about how to properly feed the beast and I figured a huge fuel line was going to be the ticket BUT...a call to Mr. Kim at Smeding Performance answered the question for me. He said they dyno'd those numbers off the motor feeding it with a 3/8 line and a mechanical pump that produced 6 psi, so that is what I decided to go with. I like the KISS principles (keep it simple stupid). The kit comes with aluminum line which is really easy to manipulate into place, however, its my opinion that with all the rocks and road debris on the road in Minnesota a steel line would be safer, so I ordered some steel line from Summit and made the fuel line. I had to order two additional lines before I got it right...man, steel is a bear to bend properly (make sure you get a tubing bender). Another thing, the plans call out using zinc plated cushioned rubber clamps (which are good) and drilling for a #10 screw to hold them down (which is good). However, I decided to go stainless steel on the clamps and screws because nothing is worse then trying to remove corroded parts. So a trip to the local Fastenal store had me ordering a bunch of stainless steel cushioned clamps and stainless steel 10/32 allen head screws, which I drilled and tapped into the frame to hold all the lines (brake and fuel).
The picture here shows the the routing of the rear portion of the fuel line:
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/IMG_4572.jpg)
Here is yours truly drilling the holes for the cushioned clamps:
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/IMG_4420.png)
Tapping the holes:
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/IMG_4422.jpeg)
The finished result:
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/IMG_4424.jpg)
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/IMG_4423.jpg)
Next step was to install the brake lines. This was even more of a learning curve as the tubes are smaller, the turns and bends are tighter and you will DEFINITELY need to learn how to cut and flare brake line. I called one of my buddies who has an Eastwood tube brake line flaring tool. It is the expensive one that mounts in a vise. Let me tell you, spend the $250 to get this thing. It effortlessly makes perfect flares in seconds for brake lines.
I installed the front hard line first:
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/IMG_4567.jpg)
This was brought around to a "T" on the drivers side of the car and the drivers front caliper hard line came down from the coupler to the "T to join the front hard line:
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/IMG_4568.jpg)
Here is how I secured this "T" to keep it from moving:
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/IMG_4671.jpg)
From the "T" the front main hard line was installed running along the main frame rail, then up over the frame rail, into the brake light switch (Napa part number SL144) and then another small line was added to run to the master cylinder mounted farthest to the right in the group of master cylinders.
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/IMG_4672.jpg)
Here is a picture of the brake light switch and shorter line running to the master cylinder. To make some of those tight bends I used an extension attached to a socket installed in a vise and applied muscular persuasion to make those curves. The vise held the extension with the socket flush on the vise. I slowly bent the tube around the socket being careful not to kink the line. My thumbs hurt for a week. Also, note that on the master cylinder I used a 90 degree fitting with NPT on one end and and standard flare on the other end for the brake line:
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/IMG_4677.jpg)
Installing the rear brake main hard line was a simpler task. I used a longer brake line and bent it to place the coupler in a position that I could easily get a wrench on it if it needed to be replaced at some point:
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/IMG_4674.jpg)
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/IMG_4673.jpg)
Here is Levi drilling the holes for all the cushioned clamps:
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/IMG_4670.jpg)
I also wanted to show how I supported the front hard line:
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/IMG_4675.jpg)
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/IMG_4676.jpg)
Next step was installing the e-brake cables and cable housings:
First was to install this cable block on the frame cross member. The supplied cable block does not fit using the existing holes so it becomes necessary to disassemble it and drill a hole between the two existing holes to fit it to the cross-member. The manual has a perfect picture for this. I also temporarily installed the e-brake handle. To cut the housings and cables I went to Harbor Freight and bought a $7 cable cutter. I then taped the ends of the cables and cut the cables and cable housings (Separately). The cheap HF cable cutter did its job well and left no cable fraying.
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/IMG_4652.jpg)
I routed the cables in a neat curve to the frame:
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/IMG_4635.jpg)
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/IMG_4636.jpg)
Its a little difficult to see but you can see where the stainless steel clamps are placed to hold the cables in position:
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/IMG_4656.jpg)
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/IMG_4654.jpg)
I then attached the cable housings together using a 1/2 stainless steel cushioned clamp and bent them down so I could eventually attach them to the cockpit tub when it is in place:
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/IMG_4653.jpg)
Next on the list was battery cable installation. I attached the battery cables at these two points going up into the trunk. I am going to leave the cables loose above this point for now:
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/IMG_4680.jpg)
I am a little worried about the placement of that upper screw. It may prove difficult to remove with the tub in place. Once I get the tub fitted I will check it to see if I can remove it and if not, I may have to come up with an alternate location for the screw.
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/IMG_4681.jpg)
Here is where I am right now. All suspension components are in, brakes are on, e-brake cables/housings are in, brake lines are on, master cylinders are in. Next step is fuel tank and then ENGINE/TRANS!!!
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/IMG_4682.jpg)
Making good progress and doing good work as well. Can't wait to see your next update.
Sam
Looking good, I wish I had gone with stainless brake and fuel just because it looks so nice... i'm not going back to redo it now. Definitely need a $250 flaring tool as well.
Looking really good Aaron!!!! You're doing some great work.
Russ
Has anyone told Aaron about the tradition of throwing a big barBQue for all the Hurricane owners when the car is road-worthy?
Quote from: Paul Proefrock on January 26, 2017, 07:13:15 PM
Has anyone told Aaron about the tradition of throwing a big barBQue for all the Hurricane owners when the car is road-worthy?
Beers, burgers and brats at my place when it's done!!!
Looking good there Aaron. Two quick observations and one suggestion.
First, presume the photo with Levi is staged since in your picture you have eye and ear protection on but your son drilling has neither? Second, see that Hurricane as added a vin tag on the frame above the rear end, does your car also have the number welded onto the frame?
Last, did not notice, did you modify the e brake handle to set up at a +/- 45 degree? Think most of us made that mod since Paul showed us his. Works with interior better and looks "more" original.
Keep up the good work and pictures.
Mark
Mark,
Nope, the pictures with Levi aren't staged. I have a valve that attaches to the drill that can control the speed of the drill and I had it set fairly low for steel. That drill is actually for aluminum and can spin up to very high RPM'S (Carry over from my airplane project). So the valve makes it easier for drilling steel by slowing the drill head down. A welcome side-effect is that the drill is quieter too. Sometimes, if I am running the drill I will leave the valve wide open and control the speed with my finger but it usually is louder and if I'm not careful the drill bit starts smoking when working with steel SO...the valve was set appropriately for Levi.
The number is welded onto the drivers side rear of the frame. Also, there is a second VIN tag above the one you see in the picture (on the trunk cross member).
On the e-brake...no, I haven't set it for 45 degree angle. How do you do that?
(http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t459/TMark390/195.jpg) (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/TMark390/media/195.jpg.html)
Aaron this is a shot of mine in the "OFF" or released position. Don't really have a good shot of the mods. If you have the link to Paul P's build page, he describes it pretty well. It involves cutting off the front mount of the handle and adding pieces to raise it up then using a chain link to correct the draw angle. Others have done slightly different variations of the that, you also have be sure the boot fits over it.
Mark
Aaron, Here is another example of an article I need to write on modifications I've made.
Also, thanks to Paul Proefrock who sent me drawings and even parts that he didn't use to help me make the modification. There is more to do than what it shown in these pictures but this gives you an idea what's involved.
(http://www.worleyworld.com/images/hm2008/ebrake/IMG_5751.JPG)
(http://www.worleyworld.com/images/hm2008/ebrake/IMG_5828.JPG)
(http://www.worleyworld.com/images/hm2008/ebrake/IMG_5829.JPG)
(http://www.worleyworld.com/images/hm2008/ebrake/IMG_5833.JPG)
I'll get all these articles written someday!
Looking good Aaron. Let me know when you plan to drop the motor in and I'll try to make it over. I do have the plate that attaches to the intake for use with the engine hoist. I also have a set of tools that make it easy to assembly A/N fittings when it comes time to run your cooling and fuel lines to the engine.
Dan
Quote from: Dan on January 31, 2017, 02:59:38 PM
Looking good Aaron. Let me know when you plan to drop the motor in and I'll try to make it over. I do have the plate that attaches to the intake for use with the engine hoist. I also have a set of tools that make it easy to assembly A/N fittings when it comes time to run your cooling and fuel lines to the engine.
Dan
Thanks Dan. I would've had the fuel cell in over the last weekend but the whole family was occupied with the pukes...not a fun weekend. This next weekend is out but hopefully the following weekend I'll have the fuel cell in and then the engine/trans to follow. Thanks for the offer, I'll definitely take you up on that.
Aaron,
Your build is looking great. Good to see your family involved. I have three #80 half-links to be used with the famous Paul Proefrock brake mod. If you or someone else needs one, I can put it a padded envelope and send it your way. They only weigh 2.7 oz. each. Just PM me and I will get it sent out. The best price I could find on ebay was for four and I will never need the three remaining half-links.
(//)
Russ C
Great write up!
I look forward to updates as you make progress.
Drew
Quote from: Russ Crouch on February 02, 2017, 10:02:00 PM
Aaron,
Your build is looking great. Good to see your family involved. I have three #80 half-links to be used with the famous Paul Proefrock brake mod. If you or someone else needs one, I can put it a padded envelope and send it your way. They only weigh 2.7 oz. each. Just PM me and I will get it sent out. The best price I could find on ebay was for four and I will never need the three remaining half-links.
(//)
Russ C
PM sent. The world famous
PP Brake Mod is on my to-do list!
Matt
I've need to update my build thread so I decided to start the update. We are making good headway right now with what has been a very enjoyable project. I have learned a lot as we have been building. Following the rolling chassi being finished the next step was to install the aluminum fuel tank. This is a very nice piece that Hurricane includes as STANDARD on all their kits. This is one of those value added things that Hurricane does that you won't find in many other replica manufactures without paying for upgrades.
Because I wanted a nice finish on my tank, I sanded the tank with 220g all the way up to 2000 (wetsand). Don't do this with a bum shoulder...ask me how I know.
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/IMG_4776.jpg)
After wetsanding and sealing with a product called SharkHyde, the finished product was awesome! Don't forget to rinse out your tank. Mine was full of production shavings so I rinsed it out and let it dry before finishing it with Shark Hyde.
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/IMG_4779.jpg)
Once the tank was finished the next task was to hang it in the car. Hurricane uses a strap system combined with bolting the tanks aluminum side flanges to some welded rails on the frame. Easy enough. My plan was to bolt the aluminum flanges to the frame rails using grade 8 hardware and then open up the fiberglass trunk floor so I can get access to the bolts with the trunk in place in case I ever need to remove the tank. Jason included some plastic plugs so the holes in the trunk floor could be sealed from the elements.
Using a floor jack I lifted the tank into place and held it there using a hand vise. I then marked the drill locations with a drill punch and then had the boys drill the holes through the frame rail into the tank flanges.
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/IMG_4862.jpg)
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/IMG_4864.jpg)
I wanted to insulate both the metal straps and the aluminum tank mounting flanges with rubber to prevent rattling and friction. I was perusing Mark M's photobucket and I noticed his tank straps had some really sweet looking wide, thick rubber straps that looked era appropriate for a cobra. He forwarded me the info on where he picked them up so I ordered the tank strap insulators from Quanta (Gastanks.com). I think they are from a 70 Chevy/Oldsmobile. I had a bunch of extra rubber so I trimmed some to fit between the frame rail and the aluminum tank flange.
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/IMG_4867.jpg)
Here is a picture of the frame rail and aluminum tank flange separated by the rubber insulator and bolted down with grade 8 hardware.
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/IMG_4845.jpg)
Building the straps proved to be a real pain in the you know what. You'd think this would be easy but because I'm a newbie this took three sets of straps to accomplish. Primarily, I'd get the bends too tight around the tank and then when I'd try to bolt them to the upper frame rail the carriage bolts holding them to the rear bumper would snap. Rule of thumb...plan for some stretch when you set the position of your bends.
The kit comes with carriage bolts (which fit under the trunk tub fiberglass nicely, but after bending/snapping them several times, I used grade 8 hardware and plan to put holes in the trunk floor with plugs so I can access these later if I need to. You can see the hardware on the rear bumper rail plus how I planned my first bend. I used tape on the tank to protect the really sweet finish I put on it that I will never see 8).
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/IMG_4848.jpg)
After making the aft bend I made the leading edge of the tank bend that sends the strap up to the top of the frame for bolting down.
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/IMG_4849.jpg)
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/IMG_4850.jpg)
Once the strap was aligned to the upper trunk rail, I pulled it really tight and marked where the through hole was on the frame for drilling. The manual says to mark 1/4 inch below the hole so when you fit the strap, its tight. So that is what the lower blue mark is for.
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/IMG_4852.jpg)
In order to reinforce the straps you have to fold them over on themselves and match drill the existing hole. So first...I drilled the hole for the bolt where it was marked on the strap. Then I folded it about 110 degrees using the edge of my workbench as a straight edge bend around and then finished the fold off in the vise and then match drilled the hole.
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/IMG_4854.jpg)
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/IMG_4856.jpg)
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/IMG_4857.jpg)
Then, I installed the straps, rubber insulators, and bolts and the finished product looks like this:
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/IMG_4858_1.jpg)
This is a picture of the hardware setup used on the rear bumper rail when I converted it to grade 8 hardware.
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/IMG_4982.jpg)
Here is a picture of the upper frame rail where the forward (bent back on itself) portion of the tank strap mounted:
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/IMG_4983.jpg)
Aaron, good work. Brings back old memories, except I had the poly tank on the "original" Hurricanes and had to do it all over again when I bought the alum tank. Keep the pics coming.
Sam
Looking really good Aaron. Keep up the great work. Got some fine helpers there too!!
Like the way you finished the aluminum on the tank.
Russ
Next step was to set up the sending unit. The sending unit provided with the kit is a nice piece and came with very clear instructions on how to set the proper depth and swing radius. Below is a picture of the chart that was provided with the sending unit.
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/IMG_4978.jpg)
Final result was this:
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/IMG_4979.jpg)
I had cut out masking tape template from the gasket provided with the sending unit and put that in place over the sending unit opening prior to applying Shark Hyde to the tank. I did this so there would be no Shark Hyde where the gasket mated against the tank surface. Unfortunately, I don't have a picture, but I think it is self explanatory enough. Just don't use the Shark Hyde where you will be adding chemical sealant.
I also added the fittings to connect AN lines to the steel 3/8 fuel line already in the car. It was a little difficult finding a 12AN fitting that reduced to a 6AN but I did find one with a 90 bend made by Earls performance.
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/IMG_4892.jpg)
After looking at this fitting, I realized that I didn't like the proximity of the nut to the panhard support bar and found another fitting with a different profile that gave me a bit more room:
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/IMG_5654.jpg)
I also capped off the return line using an Earls Performance AN fitting. The additional port in the tank that is covered by blue tape in the backround will go to the vent tube. This has to be positioned higher on the car than anywhere else in the fuel system so I will wait to install it for now.
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/IMG_4887.jpg)
TIME TO UNBOX THE BEAST!!
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/IMG_5016.jpg)
I went back and forth about renting vs. owning an engine hoist. It would cost 20 bucks to rent for a day, 50 bucks per week or I could just buy one for about 200. I decided that since this is a kit car and I do not do anything in a speedy fashion, I would purchase one. As you will see, it turned out to be a good investment because I had a few issues joining the engine and trans that took about 3 weeks to sort out. I found a Strongway on sale at Northern Tool for $180 bucks. It folds so it should store easily. It'll be nice for servicing my lawn mower to. I pulled the boxes out of the trunk and put Levi to work building it. I had to pitch in a fair amount but we got it done.
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/IMG_5203_1.jpg)
After putting the hoist together we pulled the engine out of the crate the following day. I have to admit, I was present for all three of my kids births and I cried at every one...when this sucker came out of the box, I felt a little teary eyed too. ;D
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/IMG_5219.jpg)
What is "Shark Hyde"?
It's an aluminum sealer. They use it on Pontoons and boats but it seals all raw aluminum from the elements. Just google Sharkhyde. I learned about it from the popular "Cobra Kit cars" book that's out there.
Next order of business was to install the Energy Suspension motor mounts. First of all, let me say, these mounts are unbelievable. You can tell they are well built. The only problem with them is that Energy Suspension did not design them to fit on a DART 351w. They will fit any other 351w just fine but the DART has a reinforcement web cast into the block that interferes with the motor mount and causes it not to sit tight against the block. Its frustrating as all heck but it is fixable. A call to DART manufacturing revealed that the easiest fix was to recess the rear angle of the engine mount where it sits against the block. Some people use a grinding wheel to accomplish this. Since I was to lazy to go the Harbor Freight and purchase one for $29.95 I used a round file instead. This worked fine but took forever and induced carpal tunnel. One of the reasons I wanted to use a round file was that it would leave a smoothly filed surface and be less likely to stress fracture. These mounts are beefy anyway so it was probably overkill. Oh, well. The picture below shows where you have to file and the depth I was at here is probably only 30% of the way. You have to go really deep at an angle, almost to the point of opening a hole up right on the angle.
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/IMG_5220.jpg)
After the mounts were installed, I installed my Edelbrock Mechanical fuel pump. Since this is engine is running a carb I only need a pump to produce 6 psi but be high flow. This one fit the bill and installed easily. After rotating the crank to get it to fit over the eccentric properly, it went right in.
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu64/aarvig/IMG_5319.jpg)
Aaron, how's the build going? Any updates?
Sam
Test post.
Update pic! Still plugging away. I can see the light at the end of the tunnel. I was hoping to go kart this thing this fall but we've already got snow and salt on the roads so it's not happening. This will definitely be driving around by spring. I'm sorry that I have not been updating his website but one photo bucket went down I pretty much quit posting. Life has gotten extraordinarily busy with three kids in sports, owning my own business, coaching, biking, boating, wife time, etc that updating this has been low priority.
I can't wait to finish this car and I'm hoping I get the opportunity to build another Hurricane as I would never build anything else.
Another pic
Thanks for the update. Looking good!!