I haven't seen much in the way of information regarding members tackling their own body/paint work, but since this can be an area of significant cost I thought I might pass along the web address of a company that offers low cost/high quality paint "systems".
LOL
Unfortunately, Ryan, I've taken the advice of many and decided to sub out this part of my build, so I don't have any personal experience with this product.
Well, I've been mulling this over too.
FWIW candy colors are VERY hard to shoot and get right. If there is one misteak you start over. You need to have a good painter with past experience with them At least with a base/clear process you can fix the base and shoot enought clear to wetsand any flaws. I've done a few backyard paint jobs and it's pretty involved but with some good prep you can pull off a decent job. The last was a 65 stang my son and I did for his friend. We setup and built a portable spray booth to shoot the car in. We did it in the Elenor colors and for a backyard redneck job looked really good. Stripes took some time to lay out but we pulled it off. Was it perfect?? well no but for what it was the kid was happy as his car was just a nice driver. I'm also lucky to have a freind with a body shop and a really nice downdraft spray booth to use for my next project. He charges me only the time i use his booth plus any supplies i use. I have a gallon of McClusky Daytona #11 blue for the next cobra. Took awhile to coax Mike to sell me the paint...but after a while ( 6 months!!) he came around. It's a really cool shade of blue. 8-) The mixes are his trade secret. But worth the wait!!!! The gallon of base paint alone was $365 not including HAZMAT shipping from Ca.
G.
Wow, that is a good price!
The paint I'm looking at is around $700 for 1 gallon of color. That's just the color!
I'll check into that site more when I get to that point.
Larry
I painted the last bike I built black with silver shelby stripes and metalic tinted clear over it ( by accident my helper mixed the clear in the same cup we mixed the silver in it but turned out looking awsome ) the body work for the most part is easy just repetious fill sand fill sand always use memory blocks and dont rush it use low angle spot lights and your hands can tell more than your eyes
as for the finish urethane is very forgiving if you dont have a booth soak the floor to keep the dust down and lots of coats 4-5-6 not too heavy though the stuff flashes in 5-7 min and imperfections can be wet sanded out 1200-1500 grit then compond and polish
I build furniture for a living and if ureathane wasnt so dam expensive I would use it over laquer anyday
I saw this on the FFR website and kind of applies to this thread: http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/ar_replica_car_kits/article/0,2021,DIY_13707_2272508,00.html
Larry
Another option if you want to try it at home without some of the mess, would be to use a water based paint. Before you fall off your chair laughing, ;D visit this website: www.autoaircolors.com They were written up in a Street Rodder article last year and seemed like a viable alternative.
Ken
QuoteAnother option if you want to try it at home without some of the mess, would be to use a water based paint.
I think you can pretty much coat it with any clear coat product but as you say its still health and safety concerns.
What kit is that in you pick Fuzzy?
Actually its a local made body , there were four made, two survive that i know of.
Come on Yer Dougie, you can do it !
I have a spoof can you can use............lol
C-ya buddy,
Kev