Here are some pic's
Windshield frame, lower 3/8 hole drilled, marked inside edge of brass frame to remove the excess that hangs down into the foot box, and upper frame marked for drilling, all set to 37 deg.
Windshield wiper holes, 5/8" hole drilled at 45 deg angle.
Set to 3/8" distance from window trim to finished trim on wiper assembly.
Body off frame.
Bare frame
Brake and Fuel lines ran.
Looks good.
Standard rear brake set up.
Just some info,
Rear has disc brakes, the rotor is remove to torque to axle bearing plate.
Shoes are used for the parking brakes.
I love this shot!!!!!!!
Thanks Dan,
I will double check that line, when I ran it under the cross bar I had my son jump on the rear frame to simulate driving conditions, looked good at the time, but I will take another look.
This site is great, thanks for the info!!
No problem. Also remember you are probably going to adjust your rear shock springs down a bit to get a good ride height in the back.
Really nice garage!
Did you get the stage I assembly? I expect mine any day.
Where did you get the plans for the body buck? I thought they were posted here at one time. I like Phil Bernia's Idea too.
Looks Great!
EVan
Evan, thanks for the praise.
Yes, Stage 1 Assy, I really needed it so I could have a rolling car to get up to my garage.
I really am enjoying it, do yourself a favor and go over everything with the build manual, recheck all the items that have been installed (position, torque,ect) it also helps to get intimate with every part of the car, so you know it.
The body buck I got from www.65shlb.com
Its HM1078, Paul P
He did a get job on the plans, just put the body on right the first time ;D
I modified them a bit only to lower it so I can work on the body.
Here is a pic of it lowered.
look like the frame is floating in the rear ?
I think it is too. We must have very light and well balanced cars..... ;D
Dan
I went with the fuel filler neck on top of the tank, less likely to leak and burp fuel.
Need to cover the pre cut hole for the side mount set up.
another
Hurculiner the trunk tub and the cockpit tub. A bit messy to work with, but nice results.
The fiberglass is really strong, you really need to sand it all down to prevent the splinters of fibergass going into your hands, happens only when you pet it!!!!
I was really surprised on how light these parts are.
Here is the firewall.
WD-40 and scotchbrite pad.
I also did the footbox mod.
Removed 11" from the drivers side foot box rail.
This give you a extra 1" of room next to the clutch pedal.
Another one.
Painted.
Here's one bare metal
The build is really enjoyable, I really like you can make it your own.
I don't know how many times I've put it together, play with it, change it, put it back together, and the cycle goes on, and on, and on.... But it is FUN.
Here is my gas pedal set up.
Welded on a 3x12 plate to the side of the pedal bracket.
Found were I wanted my GO pedal and welded on two bolts from the rear.
Installed a stop for the bottom of the gas pedal.
Welded on a bracket for the gas pedal cable.
Changed the routing of the gas pedal cable so that it would not come out the front of the foot box then do a "S" to the carb, now I can come straight out of the firewall to the carb.
Randy
Installed but not painted yet.
Dash completed, from the front side only.
I installed a extra hole in the dash under the green turn signal light.
This is for a RED light that will run to my 3 wire Alternator.
Me and my Engine.
351W, board and stroked to 427 cubib inches, of pure FORD power!!!
Engine and trans.
351W
TKO600
Quick time bell housing
Ram clutch
Engine in, but just for a while.
More stuff to check.
I made a metal tray for the battery to sit on centered high in the trunk.
Here is the Ram Clutch, checked the run-out on the bell housing, within .002 all is good.
Dash board, installed a red light, was going with a 3 wire alternator but can only get a 60 amp, so I went with a 100amp one wire, going to install a no/low Oil Pressure switch to the red idiot light on the dash.
Randy,
Great idea for the oil pressure idiot light.
I also made the braces for the dash support, going to run the speedometer and oil temp thru them like everyone else.
another
Was looking at your photos, really great clear shots...looks like a great job so far. Was wondering if you had gone back and rounded out the corners on each of your cut corners. Some times they will crack and check from these small over cuts. I usually drill a hole in each corner before I start drilling and if I have a corner I can't drill (or I forgot) I usually use a rat tail file to make a half round or so in each corner.
Ken
Yes, I need to go back over everything.
Filing the corners is a good idea, like stop drilling a crack.
"A ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure"
ranman,
did you get your motor from T & L? why did you end up going with the 427w over the 418w? what upgrades did you go with, is there anything you'd change?
Hey Shawn,
Its from M & R engines
http://mandrengines.com
2 year warrentee
the valve covers where swapped out for $40 extra, pulley set was $400, and I went with the MSD dist and control box.
I went with what they said works well, I have not started it yet, its a rear sump, the only slight problem is with the starter, I went with the Mini starter from summit, the terminal are now positioned between the starter and the oil pan not a lot of room maybe 2", I just hooked the wires up prior to installing the starter not a big deal.
They are easy do deal with, I had no problems, short build time and free shipping.
thanks for all the info. randy, I'll check 'em out. it sure looks like a real nice motor. good luck with the build.
shawn
I was having some problems with the front wheel inserts sitting flush with the rim, I spoke with Mike and Rich about this and said I needed to sand down the high spots and they would fit better. I did sand them down as far as I dare without putting holes thru the inserts but was still unhappy with the final look, so I filled in the area with Kitty Hair and now they look great.
I took some 3/16 rubber insulation tape and went around the insert to make a stop for the Kitty Hair.
I painted the inside of the rim
better
Finished
Heater box.
I change the direction of the box so the outlets of the core would be behind the dash so I can run the hoses on the outside of the firewall. Also can remove the heater from under the dash if needed. Will make new covers and outlets where I need them.
Top view
Nice job. Finding solutions to these type of things is what I find to be the best part of the build.
Jim
This is the problem I have with the front wheel inserts. I dont think you should have to go to that much trouble to get the inserts to fit into the rims. It should fit as well as the rear inserts, or dont sell them till they get it right. I really regret buying these rims from HMS.
Chris
Some of my latest work.
I added a bump out on the drivers foot box to add a bit more room.
Changed the brake line routing, I went over the top of the foot box.
Randy
another
last one for the brake lines.
Very nice!
Larry
I like it . . very nice. Gonna be a little tuffer to bleed, but sure will keep your lines cooler than running down the footbox.
Matt
Made a bracket with adjustable bumpers and extra return springs for the pedals, and made a mount for the brake switch.
another
I painted it, but not in these pics.
MSD mounted.
My slave cylinder set up.
Had to ditch the March bracket and make a new one to move the alt. down to clear the expansion tank I'm using.
Fits now, alot more room.
Old bracket, no room.
Nice work! I went the same route on the clutch slave and I like it very much. But don't forget you've got to switch out the MC from the supplied 1" to 13/16". This was a little tid bit that Mike Forte forgot to mention.
Matt
Nice work!
I went the same route with Forte on the slave. I didn't know you had to switch the master??? I haven't put fluid in yet. So you're telling me the supplied MC won't work?
Nick
Correct. The 1" won't give you enough travel. Fortunately, I stumbled across this on the FFR forum before I filled and bled the system. Also confirmed it with Mike Forte.
Matt
QuoteCorrect. The 1" won't give you enough travel. Fortunately, I stumbled across this on the FFR forum before I filled and bled the system. Also confirmed it with Mike Forte.
Matt
I believe the problem is that the 1" master cyl. causes too much travel in the slave and will blow the seals out of it. The solution is to use a smaller diam. master cyl. or use a pedal stop to limit the stroke of the 1" master cyl.
Jim
Forte says that the 1" will work but it will be a very hard pedal. Can anyone verify this?
Matt what's the PN for your MC?
Sorry I didn't mean to hijack I'll post in the drive train section
I noticed that the body was rubbing on the bottom outside areas of the quick jack brace.
You can see where it is hitting, and this limits the body forward movement.
This is after I cut the corner off, now with body on I have 3/16" gap.
Engine installed.
I made some plates to attach to the frame so that the body sides could be brought in tight, made four of them, each one different to match the body attachment points.
another
I welded some metal ears on the top of the dash frame so that I can remove the screws with out the rolled edge of the body getting in the way if needed, also cut a bit out and rewelded the area where the speedometer is so the dash will slide straight out.
cut out and rewelded
Good idea on clearancing for the speedo. I had to do some very creative work on the speedo bracket to get it to fit properly.
Matt
Here is mine with primer.
Another
Looks great! i'm jelous! I have a long way to go with body work ......
Nick
Looks really great Randy, what are your final color choices ?
I like the color of the 98 car but want to do it satin finish.
Ok, here is the lastest.
Its still primer but now it looks better.
another
One more.
Looks good Randy, I had my old beater in primer for two years and really missed it after I painted it. How about some satin clear over the primer?
ken
I like it Randy, it looks sort of like a "RACE CAR" . Maybe some clear coat or just wax it until you do a color later on.
Now go have some fun thrashing it. Bill :D
Wow, the looks the car get now are like , Times 10.
Thanks for the reply.
Randy
Alt bracket.
Looks like you removed the original bracket all together.
Dave
Hm1101
Yes had to take it off.
But its worth it
Man that is pretty.
Ignition coil.
The bracket I used was 1" wide, 3/16" plate steel.
Hope this helps Randy
Cool thanks!
Will try to get mine fabricated soon.
Dave
HM1101