HM2023 Build Thread

[Russ Rittimann]

Looking really good.  Keep the pix coming.

Russ

[s_reynolds]

Paul, your builds are always first class, interesting, and fun to watch. Can't wait for the next installment.

Sam

[mandmGuys]

Paul are you going to add the steel tube that runs from atop the foot box down to the front X, I remember that Dean did that on his.

Love the eight stack always wondered what a $5,000 dollar bill looked like.

Mark

[Bob Worley]

Paul are you going to add the steel tube that runs from atop the foot box down to the front X, I remember that Dean did that on his.

Mark

I was thinking about doing that mod, then forgot about it until you just reminded me. too late now, I guess.   

[Paul Proefrock]

Yes, the forward support tubes are one of the mod's planned. Adjusted size of gas pedal bracket accordingly and done some rough measuring. Haven't figured out how I'm going to install it yet. Ideally, it would be welded at each end but that is pretty difficult.

Paul

[Paul Proefrock]

Cowl support tube Mod

Having built and owned a Hurricane, you get to know certain things. Anyone working on an accurate replica build goes for the cowl support tubes. Many have suggested using them to run speedo cables and wiring. Having owned one, you learn this is fine til you have to service or repair the thing.

how do I get those wires out? How come the nut on the speedo cable won't pass thru the tube with wires in it? How do I get this tube assembly I made out from under the dash so I can work on the dash.

With all this, my support tube mod uses two separate tubes, joined together with a bolt on the dash brace. Remove the bolt and each tube will come out of the car. Not sure if I'll run the speedo cable thru it - makes it very difficult to hook up to the speedometer. The threaded attachment of the speedo, the 90 degree adapter, the speedo cable - everything has to be just right and there just isn't any room to work on it. Probably will revert back to a longer cable thru the footbox or tunnel.

Regarding wiring thru the tubes, I'll probably do this, but I've learned to put bullet type wire connectors on each individual wire. There isn't room to pass a larger connector and some times it is necessary to remove them for service.

Pictures below.

Paul

ps: if you noticed the mod on the forward cowl support rod, if you are planning to run a defrost system and are using the original style heater, you need to make room for the fitting coming out of the heater box. A piece of 2x3 angle does this. You'll see pictures of the heater mount a little further down the road

[Paul Proefrock]

Forward support tube mod

The original Shelby's had a 3/4" square tube running from the main cowl support tube to the forward suspension upright. I've added this mod to my build - details

1) the square tube is not a big deal except you have to be able to put it in after the cockpit tub is installed - now welding to the frame and birdcage - it has to be removeable. I decided to use a small bolt on the forward end, drilling and tapping the end up the upright.

2) notching the firewall, I inserted the end of the tub into that cavity, then bolt it to the footbox and upright. The drivers side includes the support bolts and spacers to the gas pedal. Passengers side will use the similar socket but with a blind stud on the bottom side into the footbox to anchor that end and the same small bolt into the upright.

3) You may notice in the pictures, I chose to lower the top of the footbox. This replicates the originals and makes it a lot easier to install the wiper motor, wiring and air vents for the footbox. I also added a 3/4" diameter tube at the front of the firewall that will accomodate the hood latch brackets. They'll be welded in place later.

[Bob Worley]

Cowl support tube Mod

Having built and owned a Hurricane, you get to know certain things. Anyone working on an accurate replica build goes for the cowl support tubes. Many have suggested using them to run speedo cables and wiring. Having owned one, you learn this is fine til you have to service or repair the thing.

...

Paul,

The the dash support tubes I got from Hurricane are 1".   I thought they looked "fat".   I verified with a restoration specialist that yes, they are supposed to be 3/4", and the street cars had vinyl matching the dash wrapped around them.

So with me being so persnickety about originality appearance as well, it looks like I'll be making another unit.   And since I have all electronic Smiths gauges, I'll be running the speedometer wires through the support tubes (no cable!), and possibly other wires, like the ignition wire to the starter solenoid and the brake pressure switch wires ( my pressure switch is very close to the front M/C). 

(I KNOW electronic speedo is not "original" - I reserve the right to choose how original I want to be !    )

I noticed yours is not right up against the edge of the dash - mine isn't either, although not intentional.  I thought I aligned the holes in the tunnel better.  Is there a reason you have it set back some?

[Bob Worley]

Forward support tube mod

The original Shelby's had a 3/4" square tube running from the main cowl support tube to the forward suspension upright. I've added this mod to my build - details

1) the square tube is not a big deal except you have to be able to put it in after the cockpit tub is installed - now welding to the frame and birdcage - it has to be removeable. I decided to use a small bolt on the forward end, drilling and tapping the end up the upright.

2) notching the firewall, I inserted the end of the tub into that cavity, then bolt it to the footbox and upright. The drivers side includes the support bolts and spacers to the gas pedal. Passengers side will use the similar socket but with a blind stud on the bottom side into the footbox to anchor that end and the same small bolt into the upright.

3) You may notice in the pictures, I chose to lower the top of the footbox. This replicates the originals and makes it a lot easier to install the wiper motor, wiring and air vents for the footbox. I also added a 3/4" diameter tube at the front of the firewall that will accomodate the hood latch brackets. They'll be welded in place later.

Paul, once again you are the inspiration of greatness.    I am going to try to follow your lead as well.   I'm "just barely" still at a point where I can try to fit in the forward support tubes into my build.  I'm right in the middle of the wiring harness at this point, and have not yet installed the inner fender liners.

since my cockpit tub is already permanently mounted, I could remove the alternator, and a few things on the other side and try to lay a weld bead on it, but I like the idea of making it optionally removable, since its only for appearance anyway.    Why are you making yours removable?  Also, won't the bolt you tap into the front hit the upper suspension mount bolt that goes through the upright?

Last question:  I notice in all your pictures all your frame and birdcage are bare metal.  I'm assuming once you fabricate and fit everything then you will disassemble it all and paint or powder coat?


My current situation as of TONIGHT:

[Paul Proefrock]

. . . Is there a reason you have it set back some?

Bob
On the original frames, the cowl support tubes run from the main 4" tubes, up (at a 3 degree angle) to the main cowl hoop (which is approximately the same center as the uprights on our birdcages. The top of the dash is about 1/2" behind this point, and slopes about 10 degrees. The result is the tubes miss the bottom of the dash by about 2-3 inches.

I don't think there is a specific reason why it is like this, just the way they were built.

Paul

[Paul Proefrock]

. . . Last question:  I notice in all your pictures all your frame and birdcage are bare metal.  I'm assuming once you fabricate and fit everything then you will disassemble it all and paint or powder coat?
 . . .

I took the frames unpainted since I planned a number of mod's and didn't want to have to patch powdercoat. 

I am making the small support tubes removeable since I wanted to fit them before the car was completed and need to remove the cockpit tub numerous times. If you were doing it after the tub were mounted, you could weld the tube but then you'd have to patch the paint. Not a perfect solution, either way

Paul

[Paul Proefrock]

Finally !  We're able to start putting things together. Between some health issues, the holidays and some really 'sucky' weather, have fallen a little behind schedule. Feels good to see a finished painted frame and pieces starting to go together. I chose to take the frame 'unfinished' so I could do my modifications, then painted it using epoxy frame paint. Prepping and painting is really a big job and a royal pain!

Maybe now I can post more frequently.

Shots of the IRS frame and differential, going into the frame.

[Paul Proefrock]

Forgot to add an important detail - the heart of the build moved home last week, is now sitting in the corner, waiting to be installed in its new home:

• Shelby Aluminum 427 Side Oiler block -468 cubic inch
• Scat 4-1/8" stroker kit
• TrickFlow ported aluminum heads
• Moderate hydraulic roller cam and valve train
• Borla EightStack fuel injection system
• Holley Dual Sync Distributor
• Performance Electronics ECU, injection & ignition control

My goal was a mild mannered big block with more emphasis on reliability rather than crazy horsepower. As it turns out, the pieces came together and easily produce 600 hp without any effort.

This ought to be fun 

[Russ Rittimann]

Yahoo!!!  Nice to see progress again Paul.  Looking really good.  That engine is sweet!!

Russ

[s_reynolds]

Looking great as usual Paul. That engine is a work of art. You should mount it in your living room and build another one for the car! When is the next installment? Can't wait.

Sam