HM-2005 Build Thread

[Russ Rittimann]

I totally agree. 

[mandmGuys]

Russ, are you going to use the key switch to start? I use it for power to the "run" side and use the push button to start.
With the car complete it would be easer to push it off than to get under that dash to "hot wire" and with you GM style starter it will be equally as hard from under the hood.

Still a kill switch is a good idea. Our car might have one.

Mark

[Russ Rittimann]

I use my key switch to start and I use the push button for the horn.

My comment about the ignition switch is all you have to do is twist off the nut on the dash and the ignition switch drops down exposing the wires/connections.  No need to get under the dash.  Everything is right there.  Jumper wire from the battery post to the ignition post and then short over from the battery post to the starter post and it does the same as turning the key.  Starts right up.

My MSD ignition module has an ignition kill feature built in.  Just add a switch.

Yeah, these cars are easily pushed or towed.  No steering lock or transmission lock.

BTW, "Double-D" was a term from the electronic industry for the hole for RF connectors that had two side flats. You could buy a knockout punch that was identified as double-d.  Bobby has the right mind set for the Cobra crowd.

Russ

[Bob Worley]

BTW, "Double-D" was a term from the electronic industry for the hole for RF connectors that had two side flats. You could buy a knockout punch that was identified as double-d.  Bobby has the right mind set for the Cobra crowd.

Russ

Yeah, thats what I meant...

[Russ Rittimann]

The throttle linkage that Hurricane provides works although I decided to make some new parts for mounting and also the throttle pedal bell crank.  See pictures below.  The new throttle pedal bell crank was made from a 3/8" shaft collar with a piece welded on for the linkage.  I used set screws that I also drilled "dimples" in the shaft for positive engagement plus I put a cotter pin through the bell crank and shaft for safety.  I didn't like the fit of the bell crank on the shaft so I drilled it out and put a bronze bushing to tighten it up.

I also made the mount for the engine and for the footbox.  I had seen the heim joints attached directly to the footbox and also to the firewall and everything was at multiple angles and didn't look "engineered".  The brackets for the engine mount that Hurricane supplied would work but it was multiple pieces bolted together and again I didn't like the look.  You can see the brackets that Hurricane provided in the pictures.  So I made my own out of aluminum.  Again, it didn't take a bunch of machine tools to make the brackets.  A hacksaw, belt sander to dress things up, a drill press and a vice.  I also shortened the heim joints so they didn't stick up so tall.

I have looked at multiple original Cobra throttle linkage setups and Shelby just added brackets or heim joints where they would fit.  Not sure I saw two that were the same.

Anyway, the pictures below show my throttle linkage.  Works quite well. 

Russ

[Russ Rittimann]

More throttle linkage pictures.

[MFE III]

Very nice!

[Kruse]

Very nice work Russ.

I'm thinking of changing to these parts. I know some of you are still waiting for the parts. these arms look a little more like the origionals I think. and if you want to use a cable you still have that choice,  after all it is YOUR car. build it however you like it.

[aarvig]

Russ, That is some really nice work.  Jason, I definitely prefer the solid throttle connection to the cabled type.  That is one of the "original" pieces that really turned me on to the Hurricane.

[Russ Rittimann]

Jason -- Those bell crank arms will certainly work.  If I had one of them, I certainly wouldn't have made my own.  Might consider replacing mine with one of those.

WRT solid throttle linkage, here is a couple of pictures of the linkage of an original CSX that was at TCC this year.  The accelerator bell crank, bell crank shaft assembly, linkage and heim joints look extremely similar to what is supplied by Hurricane.  The footbox bracket was just bolted to the side.  The motor bracket look like it was just bolted to an available bolt.

I had the same thoughts as Aaron, there are a lot of features of the Hurricane that are similar or near identical to the originals and that made it easy to select Hurricane. 

Russ

[Kruse]

some pictures of the origional (red car) and what I was told is a continuation (Blue) that was in texas last year.

[Russ Rittimann]

One of my pictures didn't load.  Probably same picture as Jason took.  Here it is.

[Russ Rittimann]

I added a small panel under the dash back behind the dash support tubes.  This panel holds a couple of switches and also a power outlet for a 12V compressor or cell phone charger.  Sheetmetal panel riveted to the 2"x2" main dash support.  Powder coated the panel.  The switches are purposely aligned behind the dash support tubes so I can find them easily enough without looking.  Could have put 4 switches as there was room on the panel.

Here are a couple of pictures.

Russ

[Russ Rittimann]

Something I noticed after looking at the previous pictures that may help someone later.  I put the dash support tube assembly above the strap where the assembly is bolted.  This will allow the assembly to be unbolted raised up to clear the holes in the cockpit tub transmission tunnel then rotated and removed.  The dash support tube assembly needs to be removed when you install the carpet so you only have to cut the holes and not cut from the edge of the carpet over to the holes.

Hope this may be of benefit later to others.

Russ

[Russ Rittimann]

Most builder/owners put their battery on the shelf in the trunk in the center up against the cockpit tub.  I did the same.  I used an Optima Redtop Size 78 side post battery that fits the GM cars.  I was concerned the top posts might be exposed and could easily be shorted.  Not good.  I found a battery tray/hold down on eBay that was designed for the Optima 78 battery and added only 1/4".  This worked perfectly and gave me about 1/4" clearance from the top of the battery to the 2"x2" main support that goes across the trunk compartment.  Just enough room to tilt the battery and put it in the holder.  Had to remove the rear clamp (the one you see when you have the trunk lid open) to get the battery in place.  Also just enough room to tighten the screws on the front clamp with a fine tooth ratchet.

I drilled and tapped for 5/16" bolts for the rear bolts for the battery mount.  I made a bracket from 1/8" steel for the front two holes, welded some nuts to the bottom and fiberglassed it to the bottom of the trunk insert.  Covered it with some rattle can bed liner.  That way had threaded holes for all four mounting bolts and the bracket could be removed for carpet installation, etc.  See attached pictures.

Used some 3/8" stainless button head screws for the battery terminals.  Had to shorten the screws a bit so they would tighten up on the cables/terminals.  And of course some anti-seize on the threads for the stainless bolts.

Thought I would make some covers from plastic and glue them to the battery to protect the terminals.  Nope, the 1/2" thick plastic I had was HDPE and the battery is something similar.  None of the glues I have including PVC would touch the plastic.  So I made some from some previous top post battery cables I had left over.  Not the best but does protect the terminals from shorting.

There are some other batteries that are smaller.  Optima batteries have always been good and looks like they cured their production problems when they moved manufacture to Mexico.

Here are some pictures.

Russ