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General Questions / Ride height-with live axle
« Last post by aarvig on November 11, 2018, 09:06:59 pm »
Does anyone have ride height measurements and locations for a Hurricane with a standard live axle?  I’m trying to get heights set so I can order a driveshaft.  Also, thoughts on pinion angle...should it be equal to or 1 degree negative of the trans output angle?  I’m seeing both schools of thought online.
Build Pictures / Re: HM2008 Build
« Last post by MFE III on October 17, 2018, 03:38:59 pm »
Beautiful looking pipes! I just hope you don't regret an 15* downturn on the turn outs. Too much downturn and you've got the leaf blower effect and anyone parking next to you on dirt will hate you!
But really nice and thanks for the detailed post.
Build Pictures / Re: HM2008 Build
« Last post by Russ Crouch on October 15, 2018, 08:03:48 pm »
Thanks for the detailed build posts. Your planning and workmanship on those pipes is outstanding.
Build Pictures / Re: HM2008 Build
« Last post by s_reynolds on October 15, 2018, 10:04:24 am »
Bob, beautiful job!!

Build Pictures / Re: HM2008 Build - Exhaust ceramic coating
« Last post by Bob Worley on October 13, 2018, 09:06:10 pm »

The driver side Cobrapack muffler ready to slide into the collector:

After positioning everything on the car, I spot welded the outer seams at the collector and the turnouts.   I set the turnouts down a bit at 75° from 90° vertical to hopefully reduce a bit of noise in the cockpit:

After spot welding, I took the side pipes to the metal experts at MC Auto Creations in Ferris, Texas where Aaron TIG welded the seams and ground them nice and smooth.


Next step is the load up everything and take it to Crosslink Powder Coating in Dallas for silver/chrome ceramic coating.  (the small piece in the middle is a lower radiator hose I fabricated from mandrel-bent stainless steel):

Back from Crosslink Powder Coat and the look even better than I expected!


Build Pictures / Re: HM2008 Build - exhaust modifications
« Last post by Bob Worley on October 13, 2018, 08:26:47 pm »
So, one of the mods I wanted to do before ceramic coating the exhaust was to replace the mufflers supplied by Hurricane (via Cobra Valley, I think), with Cobrapack mufflers from  Classic Chambered Exhaust, Inc.    The first reason is the stock exhausts are more restrictive, and the Cobrapack mufflers from Classic Chambered have 3” OD Flowpath on the inside with 4" OD smooth body.  The second reason is to eliminate future problems with rattling inside the muffler due to the spot weld in the stock units breaking loose.  This happens eventually with every stock exhaust.  The Classic Chambered mufflers fixes this problem before it happens.

Considering my KC 427W will put out 600 hp, Eric at Classic Chambered recommended 3" OD packed mufflers, in 24" length.   The stock muffler is 20" so I'll have to take some length out on the front and back ends.   Eric also recommended using their funnel cones to help with a smooth flow of air from the 3.5" collector  into the 3" muffler. 

Here is the Classic Chambered 24" muffler part# 3024-COBRA-P sitting on top of the stock muffler:

So the first step was to take my side pipes to my friend Rick Bickle's shop where he has a really nice band saw, to make a nice clean, square cut.

Well, the mufflers are cut out so now I am really committed:

Comparison of the stock muffler (left) with the Cobrapack 3" OD muffler (right).  The pictures really cannot reflect seeing the real size difference.   Also, notice the inner tube with one spot weld on the left.  This is the flaw that will cause a rattle eventually.   The Classic Chambered on the right doesn't have this:

Here is the funnel cone to make a smooth flow of exhaust from the 3.5" collector to the 3" muffler.  It will need trimming down to fit inside the collector:

The funnel cone has now been trimmed to fit snug inside the collector:

After mocking up everything on the car and measuring lengths, I trimmed town the ends of the Cobrapack muffler and its ready to weld in the funnel cone.

After welding the funnel securely to the Cobrapack mufflers, I test fit slipping the cone into the collector, and had to grind off some of the excess weld.  Its ugly, but its on the inside and will never be seen again:

Up next:  TIG welding it all together, and ceramic coating!

Build Pictures / Re: HM2023 Build Thread - Forward support tube mod
« Last post by Paul Proefrock on September 20, 2018, 07:45:15 pm »
. . . Last question:  I notice in all your pictures all your frame and birdcage are bare metal.  I'm assuming once you fabricate and fit everything then you will disassemble it all and paint or powder coat?
 . . .

I took the frames unpainted since I planned a number of mod's and didn't want to have to patch powdercoat. 

I am making the small support tubes removeable since I wanted to fit them before the car was completed and need to remove the cockpit tub numerous times. If you were doing it after the tub were mounted, you could weld the tube but then you'd have to patch the paint. Not a perfect solution, either way

Build Pictures / Re: HM2023 Build Thread - Cowl support tube Mod
« Last post by Paul Proefrock on September 20, 2018, 07:40:48 pm »
. . . Is there a reason you have it set back some?
On the original frames, the cowl support tubes run from the main 4" tubes, up (at a 3 degree angle) to the main cowl hoop (which is approximately the same center as the uprights on our birdcages. The top of the dash is about 1/2" behind this point, and slopes about 10 degrees. The result is the tubes miss the bottom of the dash by about 2-3 inches.

I don't think there is a specific reason why it is like this, just the way they were built.

Build Pictures / Re: HM2023 Build Thread - Forward support tube mod
« Last post by Bob Worley on September 19, 2018, 09:29:39 pm »
Forward support tube mod

The original Shelby's had a 3/4" square tube running from the main cowl support tube to the forward suspension upright. I've added this mod to my build - details

1) the square tube is not a big deal except you have to be able to put it in after the cockpit tub is installed - now welding to the frame and birdcage - it has to be removeable. I decided to use a small bolt on the forward end, drilling and tapping the end up the upright.

2) notching the firewall, I inserted the end of the tub into that cavity, then bolt it to the footbox and upright. The drivers side includes the support bolts and spacers to the gas pedal. Passengers side will use the similar socket but with a blind stud on the bottom side into the footbox to anchor that end and the same small bolt into the upright.

3) You may notice in the pictures, I chose to lower the top of the footbox. This replicates the originals and makes it a lot easier to install the wiper motor, wiring and air vents for the footbox. I also added a 3/4" diameter tube at the front of the firewall that will accomodate the hood latch brackets. They'll be welded in place later.

Paul, once again you are the inspiration of greatness.    I am going to try to follow your lead as well.   I'm "just barely" still at a point where I can try to fit in the forward support tubes into my build.  I'm right in the middle of the wiring harness at this point, and have not yet installed the inner fender liners.

since my cockpit tub is already permanently mounted, I could remove the alternator, and a few things on the other side and try to lay a weld bead on it, but I like the idea of making it optionally removable, since its only for appearance anyway.    Why are you making yours removable?  Also, won't the bolt you tap into the front hit the upper suspension mount bolt that goes through the upright?

Last question:  I notice in all your pictures all your frame and birdcage are bare metal.  I'm assuming once you fabricate and fit everything then you will disassemble it all and paint or powder coat?

My current situation as of TONIGHT:
Build Pictures / Re: HM2023 Build Thread - Cowl support tube Mod
« Last post by Bob Worley on September 19, 2018, 09:09:32 pm »
Cowl support tube Mod

Having built and owned a Hurricane, you get to know certain things. Anyone working on an accurate replica build goes for the cowl support tubes. Many have suggested using them to run speedo cables and wiring. Having owned one, you learn this is fine til you have to service or repair the thing.



The the dash support tubes I got from Hurricane are 1".   I thought they looked "fat".   I verified with a restoration specialist that yes, they are supposed to be 3/4", and the street cars had vinyl matching the dash wrapped around them.

So with me being so persnickety about originality appearance as well, it looks like I'll be making another unit.   And since I have all electronic Smiths gauges, I'll be running the speedometer wires through the support tubes (no cable!), and possibly other wires, like the ignition wire to the starter solenoid and the brake pressure switch wires ( my pressure switch is very close to the front M/C). 

(I KNOW electronic speedo is not "original" - I reserve the right to choose how original I want to be !   ;D )

I noticed yours is not right up against the edge of the dash - mine isn't either, although not intentional.  I thought I aligned the holes in the tunnel better.  Is there a reason you have it set back some?

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