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Messages - Russ Rittimann

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31
Build Pictures / Re: HM-2005 Build Thread
« on: January 26, 2018, 06:02:24 am »
Interesting that the roll bar brace(s) was that close.  Mine was no where near the trunk tub.  The formed steel cover looks nice.

I had to cut a semicircle notch in my license plate as it was interfering with the trunk handle.  I also notched the bolt holes a bit to raise the license plate just a bit so it was flush with the bracket at the top.  I guess I have the old style trunk lid.  Wasn't aware they changed it.  I had no problem snaking the wires down from the hinge to the license plate light.  There was enough spacing for the thickness of a single 16 gauge wire.  There was no tube.  I snaked the wires from the hinge to the latch and then up to the light.

32
Build Pictures / Re: HM-2005 Build Thread
« on: January 25, 2018, 02:31:53 pm »
Looks pretty much the mine looked when I was done.  Since I had already welded the bracket to the frame, I had to come up with a way to close off the fiberglass.  I haven't smelled gas fumes since.

What is the curved piece toward the rear cover up?

33
Build Pictures / Re: HM-2005 Build Thread
« on: January 23, 2018, 11:38:06 am »
After driving my car for a good bit now, every time I opened my trunk I got a whiff of fuel vapors.  I checked everything including the seal on the fuel gauge sensor and replacing the worm type clamps on the fuel fill tube with "T" bolt type clamps which provided more clamping force.

I finally figured out where the fuel smell was coming from.  There was a notch in the trunk liner tub up around the fuel vent to allow it to fit around the bracket I welded to hold the fuel vent.  See picture below.  This resulted in a direct opening into the trunk and the fuel vapor escaping from the vent was making its way inside the trunk.

I cut a piece of 1/8" polycarbonate (Lexan) and glued it to the frame support with urethane structural adhesive then sealed it with black silicone.

Problem solved.


34
Build Pictures / Re: HM-2005 Build Thread
« on: January 23, 2018, 06:06:41 am »
It looks like with Bob's new seat mounts, the four bolts for the sliders are essentially in the same place as mine.  I had to use 5/16" button head bolts for the seat sliders as the head sits down in the "U" channel of the sliders.  The holes in the frame mounts are like 1/2" so when directly mounting the sliders to the frame, you will need some washers on the bottom.  You have to move the seat all the way forward and all the way backward to get to the bolts.  The bolts are still difficult to get to.  I have a small ratchet that accepts 1/4" hex bits for the back and a long "T" handle allen wrench that fits the front.

By the time I got the seats figured out, I had already permanently mounted the cockpit tub.  It would have been difficult for me to weld in some new seat mounts to the frame with the cockpit tub mounted.

BTW, I had to bend the adjuster bar that you pull up to adjust the seats.  It sat right down on the floor even with my adapter rails.  Couldn't get my fingers under the bar.  You have to be careful how much you bend it as it hits the front of the seat if you bend it too far.  It's made from tubing so be careful as you don't want to kink it.

Bob -- you will need some washers or spacers to space the sliders above the carpet.  Otherwise, the slider rail that mounts to the seat will dig into the carpet and the seat is not going to move. 


35
Build Pictures / Re: HM-2005 Build Thread
« on: January 22, 2018, 06:08:19 am »
I bought the 3/4" x 1-1/2" raw stock on eBay.  Sellers have a lot of short drop offs for sale so you don't have to buy 10' or 20' lengths.  I've bought steel and aluminum.

Here's a couple of pix of the rail adapters.  The large holes are for the 3/8" bolts that go thru the cockpit tub and frame.  I cut a 3/4" hole in the top for the heads to sit inside the channel.  The 5/16" threaded holes are just the long threaded spacers you get at Home Depot or Lowes.  Drilled a thru hole and welded the spacers on both sides.  Then ground everything flush.  Welded end caps at each end.  I powder coated the rail adapters after I finished machining everything.

I put 3/4" plastic caps at the holes in the front to cover the 3/8" bolts.  The pictures don't show the caps.

The 3/4" thick rail adapters were to space the seat adjusters up off the carpet so they didn't dig in and bind.

Hope this helps.


36
Build Pictures / Re: HM-2005 Build Thread
« on: January 21, 2018, 04:18:23 pm »
I have the Sube Cobra replica seats and the Sube seat adjusters.  I had made some 3/4" x 1-1/2" rail adapters to adapt the seat adjuster bolts to the seat/seatbelt mounts on the Hurricane chassis.  The width was correct but the spacing for the bolts was different.  These were also to space the seat adjusters above the carpets so they wouldn't dig into the carpets and not adjust.  I mounted the rail adapters directly above the carpets with the lap belt portion of the harness under the rear two bolts.  At least that was my initial installation.

When I snugged all the bolts down the seats and seat adjusters would not move.  What I found was that by mounting them directly on top of the carpets and with the lap belts sticking out the side, when the bolts were tightened down it twisted the adapter rails which caused the seat adjusters to bind.  The rail adapters just did not sit flat.

My fix was to cut the carpets where the bolts mount the rail adapters to the frame and put some 1/2" washers as spacers so the rail adapters essentially were sitting directly on the cockpit tub.  The lap belt mounts were large enough that they sat flat as well.  I cut the carpets with a hole saw rotating in reverse and at slow speed so as not to catch on the carpter/padding fibers.  Worked very well to cut a circular hole in the carpets for the washers.  You can see in the picture where I have cut the holes for the left side rail adapter.  The right side is still mounted directly to the carpets.

After I reinstalled everything the seats now move as they are supposed to as the seat adjusters are no longer binding.  This will make my wife happy now as she has not been able to drive my car as she is 5'3" and needs the seat moved forward a good bit.



37
Build Pictures / Re: HM-2018 Build Thread
« on: December 10, 2017, 05:22:02 am »
Looks really good Russ.  You are getting closer and closer.  Keep up the great work.

Russ R.

38
Build Pictures / Re: HM2008 Build
« on: November 16, 2017, 06:03:26 am »
Really nice sheetmetal work.  Keep up the progress.

Russ

39
Build Pictures / Re: HM-2018 Build Thread
« on: November 13, 2017, 05:49:29 am »
Looking really good.  Won't be much longer now.

Russ

40
Build Pictures / Re: HM2008 Build
« on: October 29, 2017, 09:34:38 am »
Should be nothing holding you back now.  Congrats!!!

-- Russ

41
Build Pictures / Re: HM-2005 Build Thread
« on: October 10, 2017, 09:40:01 am »
Under the current Texas rules, you can't register a new title for a replica now and get antique plates.  Mine is titled as a 2017 Assembled Vehicle under the Custom Vehicle - Replica category.  By getting the Custom Vehicle plates, I am exempt from the yearly inspections.  You can get vanity Custom Vehicle plates but they are only 6 characters.  I did have to get a safety inspection from a ASE Certified Master Mechanic that is over and above the yearly $7 inspection.  When the vehicle is sold, it will have to go through another safety inspection before the title can be changed.

If you have an existing title, either Texas or another state, it falls under the normal rules and you can get normal plates or vanity plates and also you can get antique plates or classic vehicle plates as long as the title states it is 1965 or 20 years or older.

I'm still sorting my car out and not comfortable going any long distances yet, especially at night.

Russ

42
Build Pictures / Re: HM-2005 Build Thread
« on: October 10, 2017, 05:57:47 am »
Big milestone yesterday.  Was able to get my car titled and registered in Texas.  Texas changed the rules a couple of years ago.  They specifically changed the rules for titling hot rods and replicas.  They are now classified as assembled vehicles if you are applying for a title for the first time.

It's great to have license plates (although temporary paper) and be able to drive on the roads legally.  Been waiting on this moment for 6-1/2 years.  Yahoo!!!

Russ

43
Build Pictures / Re: HM-2005 Build Thread
« on: October 06, 2017, 06:29:21 am »
Thought I would post a picture of some of the tools and some tips I used for installing the carpets and padding.

The chalk was used to mark the carpet.  Especially on the top since it is black.  You can use a sharpie on the back and on the padding.

The small awl was used to find the holes in the fiberglass where I needed to cut the carpet and padding. 

The putty knives were used to push the carpet and padding deep into the corners and also to stretch the carpets.

I found the best thing to cut the carpet and the padding was the aviation tin snips.  Scissors, utility knives and razor blades just didn't work.

I used the large sharpened tube to cut the holes in the carpet and padding for the dash support.  It is made from a piece of 1/2" EMT.  Used the awl to find the top/bottom/left/right edges of the hole then made a "X" cut in the carpet/padding.  Drove the tube thru the hole rotating it.  This opened up the fibers so the tube fit thru the hole and also the dash support tubes.

I used the small sharpened tube to cut the holes for the seat/seat belt bolts.  Made from a piece of 3/8" steel fuel line tube left over from making my fuel line.  Stuck the awl up from the bottom where the mounts are located.  Marked with chalk then drove the sharpened tube thru the hole rotating it until the tube would stick thru the hole.  Again this opened up the fibers in the carpet/padding so the bolts would stick thru.  Tried using a drill bit but that was a disaster as the bit caught the fibers and they twisted up on the drill bit.

For the shoulder belt holes in the rear, I used the awl to locate the slot in the fiberglass and then just used a utility knife to cut the slot in the padding and carpet.  Cut the padding first and then the carpet after I installed it.  Just the cut with the utility knife was enough to get the shoulder belt thru the slot.

Hope some of these tips help when you guys install your padding and carpet.

Russ

44
General Questions / Re: Cockpit tub heat insulation...
« on: September 24, 2017, 05:49:02 am »
I only applied heat insulation to the bellhousing/transmission tunnel.  Used the stuff from Home Depot that Sam Identified.  Worked like a champ.  Has 1/8" foam rubber covered with aluminum.  Very sticky so have to position the pieces carefully before rolling smooth.  My thoughts were the carpet padding and carpet provides pretty good heat as well as sound insulation so really don't need a lot more. 

Russ

45
General Questions / Re: Aluminum Firewall option...
« on: September 23, 2017, 06:46:40 am »
I reduce the size then upload them directly to the forum.  I keep my photos on my computer at home backed up on a portable drive.  I use IrfanView to reduce the size.  It's a free photo viewer/manipulator program.  No hosting.  I'm not that techno smart.

Russ

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