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Messages - Bob Worley

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31
Build Pictures / Re: HM2008 Build
« on: December 10, 2018, 02:28:51 pm »
Success!   We had liftoff on Saturday despite the really nasty cold drizzling rain, and a very good crowd made it, thanks Guys!   

Russ from San Antonio came up and helped me get started.  We first set the #1 piston on top dead center, then marked the distributor and rotor position with a sharpee. I then removed the distributor and manually ran the oil pump with his priming tool, and I saw that the oil pressure jumped up to 80-90 psi which was encouraging.    Then once the crowd arrived, including my dad and son, I ran the oil primer once more, then installed the distributor back in place at the marks I previously made.   I then filled the carb float bowls with fuel up to half way in the sight glass and it was time to roll it out and try to start.

We pushed the car out to the driveway and everyone gathered around.   I jumped in anxious to push the "boom!" button.   Hit the starter and the engine turned over and over and over and no fire. Not a spit or sputter.  Then someone yelled they saw a fuel leak in the fuel rail. It was minor, and I jumped out to grab a wrench.  As I came back he said "found your problem, bobby" - I had forgot to plug the distributor wire back in.  Duh!

After tightening the fuel fitting, I jumped back in, hit hit button and this time......



Yippee!   Ain't Life Grand?!

My brother in law came with his multi-camera video set up and took a lot of high quality video. He is editing it up this week and I will publish it as soon as I get it. 

32
Build Pictures / Re: HM2008 Build
« on: December 06, 2018, 11:21:43 am »
The last of the fluids have been added and topped off, just waiting to press the "ignite" button on Saturday!



We are still on for Saturday, weather be damned. I dont expect any mechanical challenges, and should be over fairly quickly. I have a heated garage and will just push it out under the carport for the start up. Its more of a celebration with friends, and I was hoping to have a driveway full of cobras to help celebrate the "birth" but, oh well ... video will be posted.

33
Build Pictures / Re: HM2008 Build
« on: November 29, 2018, 11:44:00 am »
I will be attempting first engine start on Saturday December 8th -- wish me luck  :D
Bob,
It will go just fine.
If the engine builder used your distibutor for the dyno run you should be good on the timing.  Turn the ignition switch to RUN to let the fuel pump bring up pressure and look for any leaks. Adjust the fuel pressure regulator to specified setting for your EFI. Should pop right off with that EFI.
It's going to be a significant emotional experience you will never forget.  I'll be pulling for you on the 8th.

I have mechanical fuel pump and carb - no EFI.   

I do have some steps from the engine builder to follow - filling with oil:  one qt in the filter, 7 in the engine. I have an oil pump primer to run through the distributor hole.   Fill the float bowls with gas through the vent tubes.   May take a couple of starts to get the fuel pump to pick up.   

I will definitely be posting pics and video after ...

34
Build Pictures / Re: HM2008 Build
« on: November 28, 2018, 11:57:39 am »
I will be attempting first engine start on Saturday December 8th -- wish me luck  :D

35
Build Pictures / Re: HM2008 Build - Exhaust ceramic coating
« on: October 13, 2018, 09:06:10 pm »

The driver side Cobrapack muffler ready to slide into the collector:




After positioning everything on the car, I spot welded the outer seams at the collector and the turnouts.   I set the turnouts down a bit at 75° from 90° vertical to hopefully reduce a bit of noise in the cockpit:




After spot welding, I took the side pipes to the metal experts at MC Auto Creations in Ferris, Texas where Aaron TIG welded the seams and ground them nice and smooth.

      


Next step is the load up everything and take it to Crosslink Powder Coating in Dallas for silver/chrome ceramic coating.  (the small piece in the middle is a lower radiator hose I fabricated from mandrel-bent stainless steel):




Back from Crosslink Powder Coat and the look even better than I expected!

     



Resources:

36
Build Pictures / Re: HM2008 Build - exhaust modifications
« on: October 13, 2018, 08:26:47 pm »
So, one of the mods I wanted to do before ceramic coating the exhaust was to replace the mufflers supplied by Hurricane (via Cobra Valley, I think), with Cobrapack mufflers from  Classic Chambered Exhaust, Inc.    The first reason is the stock exhausts are more restrictive, and the Cobrapack mufflers from Classic Chambered have 3” OD Flowpath on the inside with 4" OD smooth body.  The second reason is to eliminate future problems with rattling inside the muffler due to the spot weld in the stock units breaking loose.  This happens eventually with every stock exhaust.  The Classic Chambered mufflers fixes this problem before it happens.

Considering my KC 427W will put out 600 hp, Eric at Classic Chambered recommended 3" OD packed mufflers, in 24" length.   The stock muffler is 20" so I'll have to take some length out on the front and back ends.   Eric also recommended using their funnel cones to help with a smooth flow of air from the 3.5" collector  into the 3" muffler. 


Here is the Classic Chambered 24" muffler part# 3024-COBRA-P sitting on top of the stock muffler:




So the first step was to take my side pipes to my friend Rick Bickle's shop where he has a really nice band saw, to make a nice clean, square cut.




Well, the mufflers are cut out so now I am really committed:





Comparison of the stock muffler (left) with the Cobrapack 3" OD muffler (right).  The pictures really cannot reflect seeing the real size difference.   Also, notice the inner tube with one spot weld on the left.  This is the flaw that will cause a rattle eventually.   The Classic Chambered on the right doesn't have this:




Here is the funnel cone to make a smooth flow of exhaust from the 3.5" collector to the 3" muffler.  It will need trimming down to fit inside the collector:




The funnel cone has now been trimmed to fit snug inside the collector:




After mocking up everything on the car and measuring lengths, I trimmed town the ends of the Cobrapack muffler and its ready to weld in the funnel cone.




After welding the funnel securely to the Cobrapack mufflers, I test fit slipping the cone into the collector, and had to grind off some of the excess weld.  Its ugly, but its on the inside and will never be seen again:




Up next:  TIG welding it all together, and ceramic coating!



Resources:

37
Build Pictures / Re: HM2023 Build Thread - Forward support tube mod
« on: September 19, 2018, 09:29:39 pm »
Forward support tube mod

The original Shelby's had a 3/4" square tube running from the main cowl support tube to the forward suspension upright. I've added this mod to my build - details

1) the square tube is not a big deal except you have to be able to put it in after the cockpit tub is installed - now welding to the frame and birdcage - it has to be removeable. I decided to use a small bolt on the forward end, drilling and tapping the end up the upright.

2) notching the firewall, I inserted the end of the tub into that cavity, then bolt it to the footbox and upright. The drivers side includes the support bolts and spacers to the gas pedal. Passengers side will use the similar socket but with a blind stud on the bottom side into the footbox to anchor that end and the same small bolt into the upright.

3) You may notice in the pictures, I chose to lower the top of the footbox. This replicates the originals and makes it a lot easier to install the wiper motor, wiring and air vents for the footbox. I also added a 3/4" diameter tube at the front of the firewall that will accomodate the hood latch brackets. They'll be welded in place later.


Paul, once again you are the inspiration of greatness.    I am going to try to follow your lead as well.   I'm "just barely" still at a point where I can try to fit in the forward support tubes into my build.  I'm right in the middle of the wiring harness at this point, and have not yet installed the inner fender liners.

since my cockpit tub is already permanently mounted, I could remove the alternator, and a few things on the other side and try to lay a weld bead on it, but I like the idea of making it optionally removable, since its only for appearance anyway.    Why are you making yours removable?  Also, won't the bolt you tap into the front hit the upper suspension mount bolt that goes through the upright?

Last question:  I notice in all your pictures all your frame and birdcage are bare metal.  I'm assuming once you fabricate and fit everything then you will disassemble it all and paint or powder coat?


My current situation as of TONIGHT:

38
Build Pictures / Re: HM2023 Build Thread - Cowl support tube Mod
« on: September 19, 2018, 09:09:32 pm »
Cowl support tube Mod

Having built and owned a Hurricane, you get to know certain things. Anyone working on an accurate replica build goes for the cowl support tubes. Many have suggested using them to run speedo cables and wiring. Having owned one, you learn this is fine til you have to service or repair the thing.

...


Paul,

The the dash support tubes I got from Hurricane are 1".   I thought they looked "fat".   I verified with a restoration specialist that yes, they are supposed to be 3/4", and the street cars had vinyl matching the dash wrapped around them.

So with me being so persnickety about originality appearance as well, it looks like I'll be making another unit.   And since I have all electronic Smiths gauges, I'll be running the speedometer wires through the support tubes (no cable!), and possibly other wires, like the ignition wire to the starter solenoid and the brake pressure switch wires ( my pressure switch is very close to the front M/C). 

(I KNOW electronic speedo is not "original" - I reserve the right to choose how original I want to be !   ;D )

I noticed yours is not right up against the edge of the dash - mine isn't either, although not intentional.  I thought I aligned the holes in the tunnel better.  Is there a reason you have it set back some?


39
Build Pictures / Re: HM2023 Build Thread
« on: September 03, 2018, 09:26:32 am »
Paul are you going to add the steel tube that runs from atop the foot box down to the front X, I remember that Dean did that on his.

Mark

I was thinking about doing that mod, then forgot about it until you just reminded me. too late now, I guess.   

40
Build Pictures / Re: HM2023 Build Thread
« on: August 17, 2018, 10:51:05 am »
Paul, whats the latest?   We are anxious to see !

41
Build Pictures / Re: HM2008 Build - Radiator modifications
« on: August 07, 2018, 10:11:07 pm »
Keeping with the period-correct originality look, the radiator I ordered from Hurricane has the inlet on the driver side, the outlet on the passenger side.  But with the radiator angled back as it is, the inlet/outlet tubes don't line up well.   See here the top inlet is pointed down, and away from the expansion tank above it.   The lower outlet tube is directed right at the steering rack, making it difficult to connect a hose and to get around the large fan shroud I am using.

   


I took the radiator to MC Auto Creations in Ferris, Texas - http://www.mcautocreations.com/ - where Aaron Chovanetz and his guys are wizards with aluminum; I wouldnt trust it with anyone else. They created new 1.75" O.D. aluminum tubes including a roller bead, and TIG welded them to the angle and direction I specified.   They did a superb job, just to my specifications.

   


I purchased the much-desired Ford Taurus 3.8L 2-speed fan from Ebay, which also has a huge shroud that covers most of the radiator surface area.  I think the two speeds are 35 amp and 50 amp (!) draw.    A few Hurricane owners have this fan, and swear by it in the Texas heat.    I trimmed it just enough to sit flush, used some foam weatherstrip to seal and insulate against the fragile radiator fins, and mounted it to the radiator.  I had to mount it as high as possible on the radiator in order for the lower part of the shroud to clear the steering rack.




For the lower radiator hose, I am using mandrel-bent 1.75" stainless steel tubing.   I ordered one 45° and a 90° bend, 3" radius from www.RaceMufflers.com.  I cut the arms down to length, then spot-welded the butt join in the center.   I will take it back to MC Auto Creations and have them TIG weld it professionally, then have it ceramic coated silver.  I then bought a 45° and 90° silicone radiator hose from Summit Racing.  The 45° goes to the radiator and the 90° to the water pump:

https://www.racemufflers.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=RM-134-065-3-045-304
https://www.racemufflers.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=RM-134-065-3-090-304
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-294037
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-294042






For the upper radiator hose, I could not find a stainless mandel bent tube that I wanted with a center-line radius larger than 3".  The 3" radius just didnt "look" right to me.  I have pictures of our local original cobra, CSX3020, pictures of Kirkhams and ERAs and they had the tube I was looking for.   I emailed Kirkham and they wanted big $$$$ for theirs.   I called Peter at ERA, and they have batches made to their specifications, and he was glad to sell me one at a very reasonable price.  It has bead rolled at each end and and is already ceramic coated silver.

I ordered two straight 1.75" silicone radiator hoses from Summit Racing:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-294032

      

42
Build Pictures / Re: HM2023 Build Thread
« on: July 25, 2018, 11:27:56 am »
First project was fitting the new aluminum tank into the frame/trunk tub. This tank is tapered on the rear to remove the big chunk of aluminum hanging down below the rear valance. I also relocated the inlet pipe to make it align with the filler better and be less intrusive into the trunk area - this required a little notching/rewelding of the rear frame


Looks great, Paul.   Is this the tank supplied by Hurricane and did you have it modified?   

not to hijack your build thread, but here is what I did with my tank to hide it: 
http://worleyworld.com/cobra/fuel-tank-modifications

(my build site is still very raw and incomplete. I work on it when I can)

43
Build Pictures / Re: HM2008 Build
« on: July 06, 2018, 12:35:44 pm »
Id say its time for an update there Bobby. How else are we supposed to know what part we need to push you to finish.

I was thinking the same thing: In fact I just got back from Mastercraft Bodyworks, Erik is going to pick up the cobra on Tuesday and do all the panel alignment and trim - hood, doors, trunk - then bring it back and we'll pull the body off so I can continue the plumbing and wiring and get this motor fired this summer.

I have a backlog of pictures to go through as well, i'll try to get some updates posted this weekend.

44
Build Pictures / Re: HM2023 Build Thread
« on: July 05, 2018, 09:08:45 am »
Awesome!  How exciting.   Paul, you must have the most amazing wife, or most spoiled.  If I brought home a second cobra kit I'd be a dead man.  Not divorced - murdered.

Maybe one day i'll upgrade to the mustang IRS, then a T-56 six speed, then the 8-Stack EFI (I already have the return fuel line in place just in case).

And I have to also thank you for the body buck drawings. I've been using it more years than I care to admit.  AND I can't wait to tear it down and burn it.

Anyway, can't wait to follow your new build. 

45
General Questions / Re: lower control arm tabs
« on: July 02, 2018, 08:44:59 am »
This is the first time i'm seeing these conical washers.   for HM-2008 I was provided steel spacers I had to grind down to match the unique gap at each heim joint.

I didnt think to measure the spacing between the lower control arms.  I'll be mine are different, too.

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