Hurricane Motorsports

Public Area => Build Pictures => Topic started by: Bob Worley on June 05, 2013, 11:48:30 am

Title: HM2008 Build
Post by: Bob Worley on June 05, 2013, 11:48:30 am
Slowly making progress....
Title: Re: HM2008 Build
Post by: s_reynolds on June 05, 2013, 01:06:56 pm
Looking good Bob. I'm still amazed at how good the fiberglas looks.

Sam
Title: Re: HM2008 Build
Post by: builder on June 05, 2013, 09:04:51 pm
Holy crap Bobby! Not only are you doing a great job but now finally also started your build thread! It looks great!!! Keep up the good work and before you know it you'll be driving your dream ;D
Title: Re: HM2008 Build
Post by: Bob Worley on June 05, 2013, 09:17:22 pm
That was the latest pictures I've taken last weekend.  I just sat the cockpit and trunk tubs down on the frame to check the clearance for routing fuel and brake lines.   I'll go back and start adding pictures from the beginning.
Title: Re: HM2008 Build
Post by: Russ Rittimann on June 06, 2013, 07:30:46 am
Nice going Bobby.  Don't it feel real good to be making progress!!!!
Title: Re: HM2008 Build
Post by: Fuzzy on June 07, 2013, 10:54:07 am
Slow down Bob, you're going to get done before me.... ;)

Great start, keep us up to date
ken
Title: Re: HM2008 Build
Post by: Bob Worley on July 01, 2013, 10:51:48 am
Nothing new to see here, move along....

Title: Re: HM2008 Build
Post by: builder on July 01, 2013, 11:04:02 am
I think its great just to say you own one! That itself was a huge hurdle ;)
Title: Re: HM2008 Build
Post by: Bob Worley on July 01, 2013, 11:35:03 am
I think its great just to say you own one! That itself was a huge hurdle ;)

well i own parts of one.  it isn't all complete yet.

Actually I did make some progress this weekend - Got the fuel hard line, filter mounted, and made some good progress on the brake hard lines. 
Title: Re: HM2008 Build
Post by: Bob Worley on July 24, 2013, 05:51:52 pm
I guess I should go back and start at the beginning:

Our scheduled pick up day was Friday November 23, 2012 - the day after Thanksgiving.  My son Nick and I drove from Dallas, Texas to Lake City, Iowa - and back - all in one trip, no sleep.   28 hours round-trip.

We left Dallas on Thanksgiving night, Nov 22nd around 7:30pm, with an empty car trailer.  We drove through the night - through Oklahoma, Kansas, Nebraska, into Iowa.    When we left Dallas it was 71 degrees.  850 miles and 11 hours later, we pulled into Carroll, Iowa at 6:30am where it was 23 degrees and a 40 mph north wind.   Brrr!

We stopped at a cafe for breakfast before heading the last 28 miles to Hurricane Motorsports in Lake City.   I didn't take long to find it, since its about the only business in town! 

Since it was a holiday everything was shut down and there were no employees there.   Dusty met us and opened up the shop.  He gave us a grand tour of the manufacturing facilities for Bowie International and Porta-Vet - subsidiaries of Scranton Manufacturing of which Hurricane Motorsports is included.  Very impressive!

We then loaded up our trailer with the body and frame, and several boxes of parts stuffed into the cockpit and trunk of the cobra body, and the bed of the truck.    We were then on our way back home around 10:30am.

We had to make few stops to adjust and tighten the straps.  Other than that, no problems.   We got back home around 11pm Friday night, totally exhausted but grinning ear to ear  ;D     1,650 miles in 28.5 hours.

We are buying the kit in two stages.  This is the first trip.   So we get to do it all over again... !   ::)




Title: Re: HM2008 Build
Post by: mandmGuys on July 25, 2013, 07:42:40 am
Your going the wrong way - want to see "new" build photos! what have you been up to?

Mark
Title: Re: HM2008 Build
Post by: Bob Worley on July 25, 2013, 08:07:30 am
Your going the wrong way - want to see "new" build photos! what have you been up to?

Mark

HAHA - well I decided its time to update this thread chronologically. So each day or so I will add a bit more, until I get caught up to where I am now... (which wont take long)

Title: Re: HM2008 Build
Post by: mandmGuys on July 25, 2013, 10:32:10 am
I remember when we went to get 2006 it was not quite that cold but when we went in the building it was not doing anything out by time we got loaded there was 2" of snow on the ground and wind was blowing. Made it fun pulling the trailer (enclosed) in the wind and slick roads.

Mark
Title: Re: HM2008 Build
Post by: BIGDADDYFROG on August 07, 2013, 04:37:40 pm
Sweet ride Bob, you doing a great job. I remember you driving my car a couple of years ago, since then I knew you were going to get one. All is left is to get the girls from Bikini's sports bar to put some butt prints on it and it's official!
Take care BDF.
Title: Re: HM2008 Build
Post by: Bob Worley on September 15, 2016, 05:02:13 pm
  i haven't updated in almost 3 YEARS!   For shame.... well, i'll have a big update to come shortly, yes I have been working on this project..   

btw, I dont have a picture like Mark, but my odometer shows "000000.0"
Title: Re: HM2008 Build
Post by: aarvig on September 24, 2016, 09:59:19 pm
Can't wait to see the pictures Bob!!
Title: Re: HM2008 Build
Post by: Bob Worley on September 26, 2016, 11:28:13 am
I picked up this little addition last night.  Looks very raw, going to need a lot of trimming and fitting to get it right.   mr bruce leave a lot of extra material at the edges so it can be fitted to various shapes and sized of bodies.

Then I have to figure out how to fabricate hinges, latches, tie downs, etc.  Going to be an interesting project add-on.
Title: Re: HM2008 Build
Post by: mandmGuys on September 27, 2016, 09:22:18 am
Awesome, I bet there is some hardware out there that would look/function right. Maybe from the MG, Triumph parts places. I might have a few ideas how you could do part of it with some C2 corvette (boo, hiss) parts used to attach the removable hard tops.

Mark 
Title: Re: HM2008 Build
Post by: Bob Worley on October 07, 2016, 08:42:20 am
HUGE STEP made this week: This week I sent 50% deposit to Craft Performance (Keith Craft) for my engine build.  OMG!  Delivery in about 6 weeks.  ;D
SBF 427 S/P Crate Engine

I also added the extras I'll need to the order:

Now the real fun begins. This build will really start rolling in 2017!
Title: Re: HM2008 Build
Post by: s_reynolds on October 07, 2016, 09:43:31 am
Holy cow!! With that engine you better be careful when you start it so you don't flip the car over! Congratulations. Post pics when you get it.

Sam
Title: Re: HM2008 Build
Post by: MFE III on October 07, 2016, 11:09:10 am
Nice recipe! Virtually identical to my motor except for the carb and intake. Everyone speaks highly of Keith's work.
Do you have port matched exhaust flanges for your AFR 205's? 
Title: Re: HM2008 Build
Post by: Bob Worley on October 07, 2016, 12:05:56 pm
Nice recipe! Virtually identical to my motor except for the carb and intake. Everyone speaks highly of Keith's work.
Do you have port matched exhaust flanges for your AFR 205's?

Jason hasn't made the headers yet. I'm thinking of ordering the flanges and matching them when I get the engine, then sending them to Jason.  Any recommendations for a source?
Title: Re: HM2008 Build
Post by: Russ Rittimann on October 08, 2016, 05:59:40 am
Nice engine!!!  You have been waiting along time to get it on order.  Can't go wrong with a Craft Performance engine.

Russ
Title: Re: HM2008 Build
Post by: MFE III on October 11, 2016, 05:04:55 pm
Bobby, you won't have to port match these:
Stahl Flanges for AFR P/N 134082628

[ftphttp://www.stahlheaders.com/flanges_main.htm][/ftp]

They matchup very nicely to the AFR 205's.  What I did was to have them shipped directly to Jason before he started on my headers.
Title: Re: HM2008 Build
Post by: Bob Worley on November 01, 2016, 08:56:19 pm
So last Tuesday, October 25th I get an email from Lance at Craft Performance Engines:

"Hey man,
Give me a call when you have a free chance.  Got your engine dyno tested today, think you will be very pleased with results. "


what?!  Its been less than three weeks!  I had to read it about three times, then gave him a call.   The engine was ready!  It was a perfect morning, cool and low humidity, and they broke it in on the dyno for four hours.   Then he told me the best numbers: 

599.6 Hp @ 5900 rpm / 600.5 lb-ft Tq @ 4300 rpm!

And those are true, uncorrected number thanks to the perfect weather conditions.  Here is the video of the dyno pull:



WOW - Sounds like the beginning of the Daytona 500!  Oh man, are my neighbors gonna love me...

(http://worleyworld.com/images/hm2008/engine/dynograph.jpg) (http://worleyworld.com/images/hm2008/engine/dynostats.jpg)


So Lance was bringing  three engines to Texas in a few days, so we arranged to meet in Corsicana, about 60 miles south of Dallas, which was on his route to Houston.   I backed my truck up to his truck tailgate and slid it on over.   I also picked up a new QuickTime bell housing, Ram steel flywheel, Ram clutch and pressure plate, Ford Motorsports mini-starter and the included case of Joe Gibbs Racing motor oil.

(http://worleyworld.com/images/hm2008/engine/IMG_4877.JPG) (http://worleyworld.com/images/hm2008/engine/IMG_4878.JPG)

I called my dad and let him know I was going to swing by his ranch in Navarro county on my way home to pick up his engine joist, I might be needing it for a few weeks ;)   

When I got home I was like a little kid under the Christmas tree, I didn't want to do anything but rip open my shiny new present!  ...well, a very EXPENSIVE present I bought my myself, but still, I couldn't wait ;)

(http://worleyworld.com/images/hm2008/engine/IMG_4887.JPG) (http://worleyworld.com/images/hm2008/engine/IMG_4891.JPG) (http://worleyworld.com/images/hm2008/engine/IMG_4888.JPG)

Our cobra now has a heartbeat! Tucked away safely in the garage, i've ordered ARP bolts for everything, Energy Suspension engine and trans mounts, and hopefully this weekend I can do an initial test fit, if I can get some buddies over to help me take the body back off the chassis.
Title: Re: HM2008 Build
Post by: Russ Rittimann on November 02, 2016, 05:54:39 am
Really nice.  Nice dyno stats!!!  Yep, the neighbors are gonna love you.

Russ
Title: Re: HM2008 Build
Post by: Russ Crouch on November 02, 2016, 07:00:42 pm
Bob,
Your engine sounds as good as it looks. Very impressive torque and  hp curves. Time to get the dial gauge out to check the alighment of that QuickTime bellhousing to the crank/flywheel. I had to use .014" offset dowel pins to get alignment within the .005" Tremec specification. The dowel pins I used were manufactured by RobbMc Performance Products. They worked well and I was able to get alignment within .001".
Enjoy.
Title: Re: HM2008 Build
Post by: Bob Worley on November 02, 2016, 10:09:58 pm
Bob,
Your engine sounds as good as it looks. Very impressive torque and  hp curves. Time to get the dial gauge out to check the alighment of that QuickTime bellhousing to the crank/flywheel. I had to use .014" offset dowel pins to get alignment within the .005" Tremec specification. The dowel pins I used were manufactured by RobbMc Performance Products. They worked well and I was able to get alignment within .001".
Enjoy.

Thanks, Russ - Craft Performance checked the bellhousing alignment for me and it was within specs.
Title: Re: HM2008 Build
Post by: Bob Worley on November 03, 2016, 10:25:15 am
Bobby, you won't have to port match these:
Stahl Flanges for AFR P/N 134082628

[ftphttp://www.stahlheaders.com/flanges_main.htm][/ftp]

They matchup very nicely to the AFR 205's.  What I did was to have them shipped directly to Jason before he started on my headers.

Matt, FYI - I ended up ordering header flanges from www.StainlessHeaders.com

http://www.racemufflers.com/Ford-AFR-Header-Flange-Mild-Steel-p/rm3535a-hfms.htm

The price just couldn't be beat for 3/8" laser cut cold rolled steel.   The Stahl price is almost double if you upgrade from 5/16" to 3/8".    I had to call them to order, but he was very helpful and confirmed I was using 3" center holes, so they are deleting the 2" holes. More material and space to weld onto.
Title: Re: HM2008 Build
Post by: MFE III on November 04, 2016, 11:32:25 am
Wow! Those are impressive numbers and a great motor! Congrats
Curious why you want 3/8" flanges rather than 5/16"?   I've never heard of flange failure and although it's only an extra 1/16", it certainly won't help the tight clearance between #8 header tube and the foot box.
Matt
Title: Re: HM2008 Build
Post by: Bob Worley on November 04, 2016, 11:45:03 am
Wow! Those are impressive numbers and a great motor! Congrats
Curious why you want 3/8" flanges rather than 5/16"?   I've never heard of flange failure and although it's only an extra 1/16", it certainly won't help the tight clearance between #8 header tube and the foot box.
Matt

Because bigger is always better!  ;) kidding it will help prevent warpage and leaks, and the flanges for AFR205 heads are narrower between ports than stock.

(http://www.stainlessheaders.com/images/Header%20Flange%20For%20AFR%20Heads.jpg)
Title: Re: HM2008 Build
Post by: Bob Worley on November 28, 2016, 11:48:34 pm
My AFR 205 heads have two bolts holes for exhaust headers: 2" wide and 3" wide. Talking with Jason he said it's difficult to get the tubes welded in with the bolt holes so close to the tube, and it would be better to use the outer holes.  So I found a place, stainlessheaders.com in Minnesota, and they had laser cut flanges in either stainless or cold rolled mild steel 3/8" thick for the AFR 205 heads. I called to order and he said he would send me a set with only the outer holes. Cost me about $80 with shipping.

Well, StainlessHeaders.com didn't send me what I ordered.   Well then they arrived they had both holes drilled. :( I'm not happy. I called back and he said "sorry, my mistake...  you can only get outer holes in stainless. If you want them custom cut in steel  it will take 3-4 weeks."  Unacceptable.

(http://worleyworld.com/images/hm2008/engine/IMG_5218a.JPG)

Well, i'm a happy builder again.  I decided to cut my own flanges out.  This past weekend I took my "4-holes-per-port" flanges that StainlessHeaders.com sent me over to my friend Rick's shop, and a piece of 3/8" cold rolled flat steel bar, 3" wide, 48" long.   

Rick measured and drew up the flange in CAD, then transferred it to the CNC software. 

(http://worleyworld.com/images/hm2008/engine/IMG_5303.JPG)

After a few rest runs on small scrap pieces and minor adjustments it was time to light the "fire in the hole"!

(http://worleyworld.com/images/hm2008/engine/IMG_5308.JPG)

(http://worleyworld.com/images/hm2008/engine/IMG_5310.JPG)

(http://worleyworld.com/images/hm2008/engine/IMG_5311.JPG)

The plasma table really makes a nice clean cut; not quite as precise as LASER, but with a little clean up with a flapper wheel and wire brush they came out real nice.

I took them back to my garage and matched them up to my exhaust ports.  They were very close, I just did a bit of widening with a carbide bit on the port sides to make just enough space for the 16-gauge exhaust tubes.  They should port match very close.   I also cut a slight relief on the bottom edge so I can get a spark plug socket on the plugs.

(http://worleyworld.com/images/hm2008/engine/IMG_5350.JPG)

(http://worleyworld.com/images/hm2008/engine/IMG_5329.JPG)

I think i will go with exhaust studs in the shallower holes.  I also need to find an exhaust gasket that doesn't have the "4-holes-per-port" cutout.  I ordered the Fel-Pro 1487 set that I will be returning to Summit: www.summitracing.com/parts/fel-1487
I wonder if I can buy bulk exhaust gasket material and cut them out myself?

For the exhaust studs, i'm looking at ARP 400-1413 stainless set: www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-400-1413
I want stainless basically because they "look pretty".  So I'll need to find what kind of anti-seize, or lock-tite should I use on the studs.
Title: Re: HM2008 Build
Post by: mandmGuys on November 29, 2016, 07:24:31 am
Pretty slick, one more bite of elephant gone.

Mark
Title: Re: HM2008 Build
Post by: Paul Proefrock on November 29, 2016, 10:16:04 pm
Bob,
Be very careful in using studs. There is very little room in the engine compartment to move the headers around and you may find they will not go over the studs due to interference with steering components or the foot boxes.

Also, it is unlikely that loctite will survive due to the high temperatures. I'd recommend Stage 8 Locking style fasteners.

Paul
Title: Re: HM2008 Build
Post by: Bob Worley on November 30, 2016, 09:09:08 am
Bob,
Be very careful in using studs. There is very little room in the engine compartment to move the headers around and you may find they will not go over the studs due to interference with steering components or the foot boxes.

Also, it is unlikely that loctite will survive due to the high temperatures. I'd recommend Stage 8 Locking style fasteners.

Paul

Good advice Paul.  Rick actually showed me the locking type fasteners on his Lone Star Classics exhaust header.   I also considered the tight space issue.   Sounds like Stage 8 is the way to go.
Title: Re: HM2008 Build
Post by: Kruse on December 01, 2016, 07:04:01 am
red loctite melts at around 400 degrees. I use a little heat to loosen things that are loctited if I can't budge otherwise. even an electric heat gun or a solder iron sometimes is enough. so it probably won't take it.
Title: Re: HM2008 Build
Post by: mandmGuys on December 02, 2016, 10:29:35 am
I used the stage 8 and love them.

Mark
Title: We have headers and sidepipes!
Post by: Bob Worley on March 16, 2017, 10:40:06 am
Its been a while since I posted an update ... 

I sent my exhaust flanges to Jason at Hurricane, and he's made my headers and side pipes.  He said he really likes the thicker flanges and the wider holes. The tubes fit very nice and don't have to be hammered and crimped in to clear the bolt heads.   I can't wait to see them! 

Jason is bringing them to the Texas Cobra Club Spring Meet at the end of this month in San Marcos, Texas.  And, I am also honored to be asked to bring my build, as it is, to display in front of the Hurricane trailer, so potential customers can see what a build looks like with the body off.   

Here are the headers in the jig at the Hurricane factory :

Title: Re: HM2008 Build
Post by: s_reynolds on March 16, 2017, 02:21:46 pm
They look nice. Are you going to have them ceramic coated and if so what color?

Sam
Title: Re: HM2008 Build
Post by: Bob Worley on March 16, 2017, 02:32:22 pm
They look nice. Are you going to have them ceramic coated and if so what color?

Sam

Yes, will be silver/chrome ceramic coated.
Title: Re: HM2008 Build
Post by: 120mm on March 17, 2017, 10:23:50 am
That is so cool.

Drew
Title: Re: HM2008 Build
Post by: Russ Crouch on March 18, 2017, 11:41:06 am
Bob,
Looks like those beefy manifold flanges are are going to work well with the AFR setup. The silver exhaust system is going to look good with you engine. I'LL bet you can hardly wait for the first startup. That is going to be an ausome ride.
Title: Re: HM2008 Build
Post by: Bob Worley on October 25, 2017, 09:46:52 am
Its been a long while since I've posted an update.    Lots has been going on, with what I have.   This past weekend I started riveting down the trunk and cockpit tubs for the final time. Whew! thats a scary thing.    I'm committed now ;)

Other things as well, but I'll get to those later.   But the latest news is - I'm finally able to get my second, and final stage of the kit.  The guys at Hurricane have everything crated up on a pallet and ready for the trucking company to pick it up.  I should have it all in a week or so I guess.   So I'll have just about everything I need to finish.  My stretch goal is to have it running, albeit unpainted in gelcoat, by the Texas Cobra Club spring meet April 4-8, 2018.   
Title: Re: HM2008 Build
Post by: s_reynolds on October 25, 2017, 10:24:05 am
Good. You'll be on the downward slope when you get the rest of your kit. Post pics when it arrives.

Sam
Title: Re: HM2008 Build
Post by: Paul Proefrock on October 25, 2017, 08:12:48 pm
Bobby,
You know the saying "Without pictures, it didn't happen"
Title: Re: HM2008 Build
Post by: Bob Worley on October 26, 2017, 09:36:44 pm
Guess what arrived in Texas today.   Here ya go, Paul ~ it happened ;)

Title: Re: HM2008 Build
Post by: s_reynolds on October 26, 2017, 09:59:21 pm
Is it unpacked yet?
Title: Re: HM2008 Build
Post by: Russ Crouch on October 27, 2017, 08:38:35 am
Bob,
I'm feel'n the excitement in your post. It is good to hear that you are now progresting to the next stage.

Keep the posts and pictures coming.

Russ C
Title: Re: HM2008 Build
Post by: Russ Rittimann on October 29, 2017, 09:34:38 am
Should be nothing holding you back now.  Congrats!!!

-- Russ
Title: Cockpit, Trunk tub permanently installed
Post by: Bob Worley on November 15, 2017, 10:17:51 pm
Made a milestone last week:  finally riveted down the cockpit and trunk tubs, and sealed the gaps with aluminum trim.     

(http://www.worleyworld.com/images/hm2008/interior/IMG_8712.JPG)   (http://www.worleyworld.com/images/hm2008/interior/IMG_9006.JPG)

(http://www.worleyworld.com/images/hm2008/interior/IMG_8957.JPG)   (http://www.worleyworld.com/images/hm2008/interior/IMG_9007.JPG)

Tomorrow i'll apply seam sealer around the footboxes, then this weekend begin applying heat barrier on the engine side of the footboxes and firewall.

Engine/Trans final installation will soon follow!   Things are starting to come together again...
Title: Re: HM2008 Build
Post by: Russ Rittimann on November 16, 2017, 06:03:26 am
Really nice sheetmetal work.  Keep up the progress.

Russ
Title: Re: HM2008 Build
Post by: Russ Crouch on November 19, 2017, 06:55:44 pm
I agree with Russ. Your sheetmetal work looks great. The project is really coming together now. Please continue posting as you progress.
Russ C
Title: Re: HM2008 Build
Post by: Bob Worley on November 27, 2017, 09:43:36 am
Yesterday I completed the installation of the radiant heat barrier and aluminum on the firewall and foot boxes.  Now I've reached the point where I can install the engine and trans (hopefully) for the final time, and really start making progress...
Title: Re: HM2008 Build
Post by: s_reynolds on November 27, 2017, 12:57:39 pm
Looks good. Looks like the sheet metal is easier to install on the Gen II cars vrs. the Gen I cars.

Sam
Title: Re: HM2008 Build
Post by: Fuzzy on January 10, 2018, 08:30:26 am

Looking really slick Bob. Keep the photos coming.
Title: Re: HM2008 Build
Post by: Bob Worley on February 27, 2018, 12:26:52 pm
Its been a while since I've updated - and I've been busy the past few months:



I received the rest of my clutch parts.  My dad came over and we assembled the hydraulic TOB, then mated the trans to the engine and installed the drivetrain for the (hopefully!) LAST time.   Everything is torqued down tight.

(http://www.bobworley.com/images/hm2008/build/IMG_9375.JPG)   (http://www.bobworley.com/images/hm2008/build/IMG_9387.JPG)



I finished fabricating the raised false floor, lengthened period-correct clutch and brake pedals, shorted throttle pedal, and the aluminum cover.  The false floor and all pedals are all powdercoated.

(http://www.bobworley.com/images/hm2008/pedals/IMG_9444.JPG)



I purchased the period-correct FE style expansion tank, which arrived un-assembled.  Since this tank is originally for an FE not a windsor small block, I shortened the mounting bracket as much as possible so it will clear the hood.  I then took it to a local radiator shop where they soldered it up and pressure-tested for leaks.

(http://www.bobworley.com/images/hm2008/engine/IMG_9603.JPG)  (http://www.bobworley.com/images/hm2008/engine/IMG_9621.JPG)  (http://www.bobworley.com/images/hm2008/engine/IMG_9625.JPG)

Next I fabricated a period-correct remote oil filter mounting bracket, which attaches to the remote filter to the water pump:

(http://www.bobworley.com/images/hm2008/engine/IMG_9644.JPG)

(http://www.bobworley.com/images/hm2008/build/IMG_9645.JPG)

(After I test-fit all hoses, oil lines, steering column, and verify the expansion tank will clear the hood I will take the tank and the oil filter bracket for powdercoating black.)



Then this past weekend I finished installing heat/sound barrier on the firewall and foot boxes.  Next I welded on grounding bolts, and brackets for the ignition box onto the upper frame/dash support, then installed the dash support for the final time, putting a weld bead on each side where the frame bolts to the foot box for absolute grounding continuity to the frame.

(http://www.bobworley.com/images/hm2008/build/IMG_9673.JPG)   (http://www.bobworley.com/images/hm2008/build/IMG_9685.JPG)

Title: Re: HM2008 Build
Post by: Russ Rittimann on February 28, 2018, 05:57:40 am
Looking really good Bobby.

Are you planning to bring your car to TCC?  I know you were hoping to have it running without paint by then but maybe next year.
Title: Re: HM2008 Build
Post by: Bob Worley on February 28, 2018, 08:16:09 am
Looking really good Bobby.

Are you planning to bring your car to TCC?  I know you were hoping to have it running without paint by then but maybe next year.

I'm not going to bring it this year.  Next year will be my year.
Title: Re: HM2008 Build
Post by: Bob Worley on March 29, 2018, 01:57:58 pm
Guys, if you haven't done this yet, you need to!   I found this on Paul Profrock's build page here: http://65shlb.com/steering-column-install-mods/

and it fixes the sloppy fit of the turn signal switch on the steering column boss.   I just made this tonight, took me about 10 minutes and it really works.    I took a piece of .040 aluminum scrap, cut it to 5/8" x 4"  (0.625" x 4.0"), then bent it around a 30mm socket in the vice, slid it inside the turn lever housing.   

Now the switch fits very snuggly and flush on the steering boss, and parallel with the steering wheel. 

Now i'm thinking about getting rid of the metal "saddle" that the screw presses against the steering boss, drilling and tapping a hole into the boss and threading in a longer screw. Then it's guaranteed not to loosen or move. 

(http://bobworley.com/images/hm2008/steering/IMG_9937.JPG)  (http://bobworley.com/images/hm2008/steering/IMG_9932.JPG)  (http://bobworley.com/images/hm2008/steering/IMG_9931.JPG)  (http://bobworley.com/images/hm2008/steering/IMG_9936.JPG)
Title: Re: HM2008 Build
Post by: Russ Crouch on March 29, 2018, 03:54:13 pm
Bob,
Yep! Another good idea from Paul. As you are cosidering, I marked the boss where the set screw would be when the turn signal handle is located where I wanted it and then took the foot off the set screw. With the turn signal switch removed, I drilled a dimple for the set screw to contact the boss where I had previously marked the desired location. The turm signal is very rigid now and does not move about the steering wheel boss as before.
Russ C
Title: Re: HM2008 Build
Post by: Dan on April 04, 2018, 12:40:02 pm
I drilled and tapped the column that the turn signal slide over and used a long set-screw to hold it in place. Works fine.
Title: Re: HM2008 Build
Post by: s_reynolds on April 04, 2018, 08:50:31 pm
Yes, I had forgotten about this mod. I did the same thing. I think a lot of us "borrowed" Paul's idea.

Sam
Title: Re: HM2008 Build
Post by: mandmGuys on July 06, 2018, 12:13:21 pm
Id say its time for an update there Bobby. How else are we supposed to know what part we need to push you to finish. 
Title: Re: HM2008 Build
Post by: Bob Worley on July 06, 2018, 12:35:44 pm
Id say its time for an update there Bobby. How else are we supposed to know what part we need to push you to finish.

I was thinking the same thing: In fact I just got back from Mastercraft Bodyworks, Erik is going to pick up the cobra on Tuesday and do all the panel alignment and trim - hood, doors, trunk - then bring it back and we'll pull the body off so I can continue the plumbing and wiring and get this motor fired this summer.

I have a backlog of pictures to go through as well, i'll try to get some updates posted this weekend.
Title: Re: HM2008 Build - Radiator modifications
Post by: Bob Worley on August 07, 2018, 10:11:07 pm
Keeping with the period-correct originality look, the radiator I ordered from Hurricane has the inlet on the driver side, the outlet on the passenger side.  But with the radiator angled back as it is, the inlet/outlet tubes don't line up well.   See here the top inlet is pointed down, and away from the expansion tank above it.   The lower outlet tube is directed right at the steering rack, making it difficult to connect a hose and to get around the large fan shroud I am using.

(http://bobworley.com/images/hm2008/radiator/IMG_9757.JPG)   (http://bobworley.com/images/hm2008/radiator/IMG_9785.JPG)


I took the radiator to MC Auto Creations in Ferris, Texas - http://www.mcautocreations.com/ - where Aaron Chovanetz and his guys are wizards with aluminum; I wouldnt trust it with anyone else. They created new 1.75" O.D. aluminum tubes including a roller bead, and TIG welded them to the angle and direction I specified.   They did a superb job, just to my specifications.

(http://bobworley.com/images/hm2008/radiator/IMG_0266.JPG)   (http://bobworley.com/images/hm2008/radiator/IMG_0263.JPG)


I purchased the much-desired Ford Taurus 3.8L 2-speed fan from Ebay, which also has a huge shroud that covers most of the radiator surface area.  I think the two speeds are 35 amp and 50 amp (!) draw.    A few Hurricane owners have this fan, and swear by it in the Texas heat.    I trimmed it just enough to sit flush, used some foam weatherstrip to seal and insulate against the fragile radiator fins, and mounted it to the radiator.  I had to mount it as high as possible on the radiator in order for the lower part of the shroud to clear the steering rack.

(http://bobworley.com/images/hm2008/radiator/IMG_0840.JPG)


For the lower radiator hose, I am using mandrel-bent 1.75" stainless steel tubing.   I ordered one 45° and a 90° bend, 3" radius from www.RaceMufflers.com.  I cut the arms down to length, then spot-welded the butt join in the center.   I will take it back to MC Auto Creations and have them TIG weld it professionally, then have it ceramic coated silver.  I then bought a 45° and 90° silicone radiator hose from Summit Racing.  The 45° goes to the radiator and the 90° to the water pump:

https://www.racemufflers.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=RM-134-065-3-045-304
https://www.racemufflers.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=RM-134-065-3-090-304
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-294037
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-294042


(http://bobworley.com/images/hm2008/radiator/IMG_1365.JPG)



For the upper radiator hose, I could not find a stainless mandel bent tube that I wanted with a center-line radius larger than 3".  The 3" radius just didnt "look" right to me.  I have pictures of our local original cobra, CSX3020, pictures of Kirkhams and ERAs and they had the tube I was looking for.   I emailed Kirkham and they wanted big $$$$ for theirs.   I called Peter at ERA, and they have batches made to their specifications, and he was glad to sell me one at a very reasonable price.  It has bead rolled at each end and and is already ceramic coated silver.

I ordered two straight 1.75" silicone radiator hoses from Summit Racing:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-294032

(http://bobworley.com/images/hm2008/radiator/IMG_1446.JPG)   (http://bobworley.com/images/hm2008/radiator/IMG_1445.JPG)   
Title: Re: HM2008 Build
Post by: s_reynolds on August 08, 2018, 09:39:42 am
Looking good. Lots of nice custom mods.

Sam
Title: Re: HM2008 Build - exhaust modifications
Post by: Bob Worley on October 13, 2018, 08:26:47 pm
So, one of the mods I wanted to do before ceramic coating the exhaust was to replace the mufflers supplied by Hurricane (via Cobra Valley, I think), with Cobrapack mufflers from  Classic Chambered Exhaust, Inc. (http://www.classicchambered.com/)    The first reason is the stock exhausts are more restrictive, and the Cobrapack mufflers from Classic Chambered have 3” OD Flowpath on the inside with 4" OD smooth body.  The second reason is to eliminate future problems with rattling inside the muffler due to the spot weld in the stock units breaking loose.  This happens eventually with every stock exhaust.  The Classic Chambered mufflers fixes this problem before it happens.

Considering my KC 427W will put out 600 hp, Eric at Classic Chambered recommended 3" OD packed mufflers, in 24" length.   The stock muffler is 20" so I'll have to take some length out on the front and back ends.   Eric also recommended using their funnel cones to help with a smooth flow of air from the 3.5" collector  into the 3" muffler. 


Here is the Classic Chambered 24" muffler part# 3024-COBRA-P sitting on top of the stock muffler:

(http://bobworley.com/images/hm2008/exhaust/IMG_1417.JPG)


So the first step was to take my side pipes to my friend Rick Bickle's shop where he has a really nice band saw, to make a nice clean, square cut.

(http://bobworley.com/images/hm2008/exhaust/IMG_1426.JPG)


Well, the mufflers are cut out so now I am really committed:

(http://bobworley.com/images/hm2008/exhaust/IMG_1433.JPG)



Comparison of the stock muffler (left) with the Cobrapack 3" OD muffler (right).  The pictures really cannot reflect seeing the real size difference.   Also, notice the inner tube with one spot weld on the left.  This is the flaw that will cause a rattle eventually.   The Classic Chambered on the right doesn't have this:

(http://bobworley.com/images/hm2008/exhaust/IMG_1641.JPG)


Here is the funnel cone to make a smooth flow of exhaust from the 3.5" collector to the 3" muffler.  It will need trimming down to fit inside the collector:

(http://bobworley.com/images/hm2008/exhaust/IMG_1461.JPG)


The funnel cone has now been trimmed to fit snug inside the collector:

(http://bobworley.com/images/hm2008/exhaust/IMG_1485.JPG)


After mocking up everything on the car and measuring lengths, I trimmed town the ends of the Cobrapack muffler and its ready to weld in the funnel cone.

(http://bobworley.com/images/hm2008/exhaust/IMG_1492.JPG)


After welding the funnel securely to the Cobrapack mufflers, I test fit slipping the cone into the collector, and had to grind off some of the excess weld.  Its ugly, but its on the inside and will never be seen again:

(http://bobworley.com/images/hm2008/exhaust/IMG_1497.JPG)


Up next:  TIG welding it all together, and ceramic coating!



Resources:
Title: Re: HM2008 Build - Exhaust ceramic coating
Post by: Bob Worley on October 13, 2018, 09:06:10 pm

The driver side Cobrapack muffler ready to slide into the collector:

(http://bobworley.com/images/hm2008/exhaust/IMG_1626.JPG)


After positioning everything on the car, I spot welded the outer seams at the collector and the turnouts.   I set the turnouts down a bit at 75° from 90° vertical to hopefully reduce a bit of noise in the cockpit:

(http://bobworley.com/images/hm2008/exhaust/IMG_1645.JPG)


After spot welding, I took the side pipes to the metal experts at MC Auto Creations (http://www.mcautocreations.com/) in Ferris, Texas where Aaron TIG welded the seams and ground them nice and smooth.

(http://bobworley.com/images/hm2008/exhaust/IMG_1664.JPG)   (http://bobworley.com/images/hm2008/exhaust/IMG_1663.JPG)   


Next step is the load up everything and take it to Crosslink Powder Coating (https://www.yelp.com/biz/crosslink-powder-coating-dallas) in Dallas for silver/chrome ceramic coating.  (the small piece in the middle is a lower radiator hose I fabricated from mandrel-bent stainless steel):

(http://bobworley.com/images/hm2008/exhaust/IMG_1680.JPG)


Back from Crosslink Powder Coat and the look even better than I expected!

(http://bobworley.com/images/hm2008/exhaust/IMG_1733.JPG)  (http://bobworley.com/images/hm2008/exhaust/IMG_1734.JPG)  (http://bobworley.com/images/hm2008/exhaust/IMG_2236.JPG)  (http://bobworley.com/images/hm2008/exhaust/IMG_2238.JPG)



Resources:
Title: Re: HM2008 Build
Post by: s_reynolds on October 15, 2018, 10:04:24 am
Bob, beautiful job!!

Sam
Title: Re: HM2008 Build
Post by: Russ Crouch on October 15, 2018, 08:03:48 pm
Bob,
Thanks for the detailed build posts. Your planning and workmanship on those pipes is outstanding.
 
Title: Re: HM2008 Build
Post by: MFE III on October 17, 2018, 03:38:59 pm
Beautiful looking pipes! I just hope you don't regret an 15* downturn on the turn outs. Too much downturn and you've got the leaf blower effect and anyone parking next to you on dirt will hate you!
But really nice and thanks for the detailed post.
Title: Re: HM2008 Build
Post by: Bob Worley on November 28, 2018, 11:57:39 am
I will be attempting first engine start on Saturday December 8th -- wish me luck  :D
Title: Re: HM2008 Build
Post by: Russ Crouch on November 28, 2018, 06:50:59 pm
I will be attempting first engine start on Saturday December 8th -- wish me luck  :D
Bob,
It will go just fine.
If the engine builder used your distibutor for the dyno run you should be good on the timing.  Turn the ignition switch to RUN to let the fuel pump bring up pressure and look for any leaks. Adjust the fuel pressure regulator to specified setting for your EFI. Should pop right off with that EFI.
It's going to be a significant emotional experience you will never forget.  I'll be pulling for you on the 8th.
Title: Re: HM2008 Build
Post by: s_reynolds on November 29, 2018, 10:05:07 am
Bob, I'm sure it will go fine. My engine builder was a friend of mine so he came over to help me with the startup. Have somebody take pics or video it would be even better. Good luck!

Sam
Title: Re: HM2008 Build
Post by: Bob Worley on November 29, 2018, 11:44:00 am
I will be attempting first engine start on Saturday December 8th -- wish me luck  :D
Bob,
It will go just fine.
If the engine builder used your distibutor for the dyno run you should be good on the timing.  Turn the ignition switch to RUN to let the fuel pump bring up pressure and look for any leaks. Adjust the fuel pressure regulator to specified setting for your EFI. Should pop right off with that EFI.
It's going to be a significant emotional experience you will never forget.  I'll be pulling for you on the 8th.

I have mechanical fuel pump and carb - no EFI.   

I do have some steps from the engine builder to follow - filling with oil:  one qt in the filter, 7 in the engine. I have an oil pump primer to run through the distributor hole.   Fill the float bowls with gas through the vent tubes.   May take a couple of starts to get the fuel pump to pick up.   

I will definitely be posting pics and video after ...
Title: Re: HM2008 Build
Post by: Bob Worley on December 06, 2018, 11:21:43 am
The last of the fluids have been added and topped off, just waiting to press the "ignite" button on Saturday!

(http://bobworley.com/images/hm2008/engine/blinkerfluidsm.jpg)

We are still on for Saturday, weather be damned. I dont expect any mechanical challenges, and should be over fairly quickly. I have a heated garage and will just push it out under the carport for the start up. Its more of a celebration with friends, and I was hoping to have a driveway full of cobras to help celebrate the "birth" but, oh well ... video will be posted.
Title: Re: HM2008 Build
Post by: Russ Crouch on December 09, 2018, 10:32:54 am
Bob,
How did the first startup go yesterday?
Title: Re: HM2008 Build
Post by: Bob Worley on December 10, 2018, 02:28:51 pm
Success!   We had liftoff on Saturday despite the really nasty cold drizzling rain, and a very good crowd made it, thanks Guys!   

Russ from San Antonio came up and helped me get started.  We first set the #1 piston on top dead center, then marked the distributor and rotor position with a sharpee. I then removed the distributor and manually ran the oil pump with his priming tool, and I saw that the oil pressure jumped up to 80-90 psi which was encouraging.    Then once the crowd arrived, including my dad and son, I ran the oil primer once more, then installed the distributor back in place at the marks I previously made.   I then filled the carb float bowls with fuel up to half way in the sight glass and it was time to roll it out and try to start.

We pushed the car out to the driveway and everyone gathered around.   I jumped in anxious to push the "boom!" button.   Hit the starter and the engine turned over and over and over and no fire. Not a spit or sputter.  Then someone yelled they saw a fuel leak in the fuel rail. It was minor, and I jumped out to grab a wrench.  As I came back he said "found your problem, bobby" - I had forgot to plug the distributor wire back in.  Duh!

After tightening the fuel fitting, I jumped back in, hit hit button and this time......



Yippee!   Ain't Life Grand?!

My brother in law came with his multi-camera video set up and took a lot of high quality video. He is editing it up this week and I will publish it as soon as I get it. 
Title: Re: HM2008 Build
Post by: s_reynolds on December 10, 2018, 03:32:24 pm
Bob, glad it went smoothly. Didn't expect anything else, but good to see. I noticed there was a smile on your face. Is it still there? Congrats. Not long now.

Sam
Title: Re: HM2008 Build
Post by: Paul Proefrock on December 10, 2018, 08:28:51 pm
Great Job!

Isn't it amazing how much better you feel after your pucker valve relaxes   ;D

Keep it up - next milestone is 'go-kart'

Paul
Title: Re: HM2008 Build
Post by: Bob Worley on December 10, 2018, 10:35:13 pm
Great Job!
Isn't it amazing how much better you feel after your pucker valve relaxes   ;D
Keep it up - next milestone is 'go-kart'

Paul

Yep, I just need to bleed brakes and clutch and I'll be ready to rumble around the block....   ;D
Title: Re: HM2008 Build
Post by: mandmGuys on December 19, 2018, 09:40:53 am
So Bobby, it has been almost eleven days since you first started. How many times have you started it since? And do you have cramps in your cheeks yet from smiling so much?

Mark
Title: Re: HM2008 Build
Post by: Bob Worley on December 19, 2018, 03:41:39 pm
So Bobby, it has been almost eleven days since you first started. How many times have you started it since? And do you have cramps in your cheeks yet from smiling so much?

Mark

Mark, just a few times ;)   I still have a fuel leak in the fuel rail - I picked up a fuel pressure regular from Summit Racing to plug into the leaky end plug. and a loose oil pressure sender letting some oil out ..  I tightened it up good.  I finished up the engine harness in corrugated high temp nylon tubing, and  I have the dash out now finishing up the wiring bundles and installing disconnect molex connectors to the dash harness.   

AND.... here is the final long version video produced and edited by my brother-in-law .... enjoy!!   Watch on a big screen and turn the volume UP!!

Title: Re: HM2008 Build
Post by: Paul Proefrock on December 19, 2018, 06:24:39 pm
Good Job, Bobby - the video and the build  ;D

Paul
Title: Re: HM2008 Build
Post by: s_reynolds on December 20, 2018, 10:06:45 am
Fantastic Bob!! Looks like the crowd got bigger as you got closer to beer and pizza time. Thanks for sharing.

Sam
Title: HM2008 Build - First Drive!
Post by: Bob Worley on January 21, 2019, 05:54:17 pm
My dad and I bled the clutch and the brakes, and this past Friday I took it out for its maiden voyage!    All went well.    (yes I know: take it out of gear first.  Yes I know: their is cardboard on the radiator)



I have a small oil leak at the oil pressure sender; I need to remove it and try to seal the threads.

I also found I have a few brake fluid leaks; two of the girling cans are leaking at the bottom - this is really going to be a pain to fix.  May have to bend some more 1/4" hard line. :(

Title: Re: HM2008 Build
Post by: mandmGuys on February 27, 2019, 11:18:17 am
Did not want to highjack the other thread, so moved over here. Bobby how recent was that last picture in the group you posted? Do you have the body back on?

Mark
Title: Re: HM2008 Build
Post by: Bob Worley on February 27, 2019, 02:10:37 pm
Did not want to highjack the other thread, so moved over here. Bobby how recent was that last picture in the group you posted? Do you have the body back on?

Mark

That pic was from last Summer fitting the windscreen.     The body is not back on yet.   

I'm working frantic on the car every day trying to get it ready for San Marcos   I've almost finished the carpet, all the leaks are fixed, the brakes are great, it drives great - but I've only driven it around the block a few times up to 30 mph or so.   Its really, really untested.   

Monday I started on the bodywork - I'm having to fill in the front quick jack holes and the roll bar holes with resin and mat and re-drill, because they were pre-drilled them at the factory and they are WAY off where they need to be.  Also the side pipe exits are very crude so I'm fixing them.   Hopefully that will get done this week and I can mount the body next week.

I'm still hoping to drive it down to San Marcos, but the wiser choice might be to trailer it down.  I just don't have a glamorous trailer like other folks, only my dad's old farm trailer.  Regardless, it will be there -